Splitter carburetor

[Ctwoodtick]

I recently replaced the carburetor on my dirty hand tools 25 ton splitter. Long story short- I messed up the old one by trying to be proactive and removing it and giving a good cleaning and then re-installing. I ended up overtightening the bolt to the bowl and things went sideways from there.
I ordered a replacement and the splitter works with it but I notice that when splitting a large or tough round, the splitter starts to slow up and will sometimes shut off.
I’m not incredibly mechanically inclined so curious what people think may be going on. I’m wondering if it is the new carb which looks slightly different from the original.
I also notice that I have to put engage the choke every time I start it up now, even though I just turned it off a minute ago.

 

[ericm979]

It sounds like low float level. On many carbs the float level is adjustable.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

It sounds like low float level. On many carbs the float level is adjustable.

Ok thanks, if issue continues to occur, I’ll look into that.

 

[brenndatomu]

Yup, sounds lean.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

So doing a little research, i think this particular carburetor’s float is not adjustable. It’s plastic and held in place by a pin. It was 17 dollars on amazon. Do you think it may be worth it to just buy another identical carburetor thinking the one I have now is defective?

 

[Jags]

Probably not. Many of the new carbs are designed to be on the raggedy edge of lean to meet EPA requirements. My guess is that is the fight you are fighting. If anything I would choose a DIFFERENT carb to try. If possible find one with a high speed adjustment.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Probably not. Many of the new carbs are designed to be on the raggedy edge of lean to meet EPA requirements. My guess is that is the fight you are fighting. If anything I would choose a DIFFERENT carb to try. If possible find one with a high speed adjustment.

Ok thanks I’ll look around. I’ll look for the high speed adjustment. Any other specs I should look for ? Newer to this, thanks again.

 

[Eman85]

I would fix my old carb and put it back on if it worked correctly. Replacement carbs are cheap, and there is a reason for that.

 

[ericm979]

I would fix my old carb and put it back on if it worked correctly. Replacement carbs are cheap, and there is a reason for that.

Yea I'd rebuild the old carb if possible.

 

[Stove Cricket]

You could try running some turbo blue 110 octane racing fuel through it. Some oil companies or some race tracks stock it. I use it for some small engines and they love it.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

U

Yea I'd rebuild the old carb if possible.

Unfortunately I threw the old
Carb away. Not bright, I know. I figured I was good to go after the splitter appeared to work after I put in the replacement.

 

[ericm979]

You could try running some turbo blue 110 octane racing fuel through it. Some oil companies or some race tracks stock it. I use it for some small engines and they love it.

It should run properly on regular gas and running expensive race gas in an industrial engine is just a waste of money.



Besides the float level I would check that the governor can open the throttle all the way (look down the bore of the carb to see if the throttle plate is fully open) and for the starting problem I'd also check that the idle speed is set high enough. There should be a way to trick the governor into calling for full throttle.

 

[Stove Cricket]

It should run properly on regular gas and running expensive race gas in an industrial engine is just a waste of money.



Besides the float level I would check that the governor can open the throttle all the way (look down the bore of the carb to see if the throttle plate is fully open) and for the starting problem I'd also check that the idle speed is set high enough. There should be a way to trick the governor into calling for full throttle.

Since I split 4 cords last winter by hand, I would agree, a splitter is a waste of money.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Ok so I think I found my issue. Hearing everyone’s input got me thinking. Forgive me for not knowing the part names.
I started looking at the carb again and saw that the thicker of the 2 metal wires controlled by the throttle was not connected. I remember it seemed difficult to put this in the correct hole when I did it and apparently it came loose. I was able to connect it correctly, which was a lot more difficult that the original carb.
I will start it up tomorrow or the next day to test it out- my back is on the mend today. Pretty sure that was the problem.
Thanks again all

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Ok not there yet. I pulled the cord 2 times in a choke mode, with the 2nd time sounded like it almost turned over. Then the pull cord became very hard to pull. I took off the plate for the pull cord. The cord itself pulls fine and retracts normally. When I manually turn the motor, it is resistant and at one point in my turn becomes very difficult to turn.
I gave it about 2 hours and then went back to it with the same result.
Not sure if the small adjustment I made or my handling of the carb caused this.
Looking for ideas again, lol!

 

[brenndatomu]

You could try running some turbo blue 110 octane racing fuel through it. Some oil companies or some race tracks stock it. I use it for some small engines and they love it.

TB is a total waste of money on a splitter engine, if you put the engine on the dyno before and after you are actually losing horsepower!
Octane cools and slows the combustion flame front, which is needed in a high compression engine, not a stock splitter engine though!
TB is E free though, so there's that...

Ok not there yet. I pulled the cord 2 times in a choke mode, with the 2nd time sounded like it almost turned over. Then the pull cord became very hard to pull. I took off the plate for the pull cord. The cord itself pulls fine and retracts normally. When I manually turn the motor, it is resistant and at one point in my turn becomes very difficult to turn.
I gave it about 2 hours and then went back to it with the same result.
Not sure if the small adjustment I made or my handling of the carb caused this.
Looking for ideas again, lol!

Smell the oil, see if it smells like gasoline now...I wonder if the float has leaked fuel into the crankcase and that's why its trying to "lock up" on you now...too bad the OEM carb is gone, much better part than those cheap chineez ones!

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Of

TB is a total waste of money on a splitter engine, if you put the engine on the dyno before and after you are actually losing horsepower!
Octane cools and slows the combustion flame front, which is needed in a high compression engine, not a stock splitter engine though!
TB is E free though, so there's that...

Smell the oil, see if it smells like gasoline now...I wonder if the float has leaked fuel into the crankcase and that's why its trying to "lock up" on you now...too bad the OEM carb is gone, much better part than those cheap chineez ones!

if that happened, do you think it was self-correct itself like a flooded engine? I ask bc I’m hoping that the new carb will work ok now that it’s hooked up correctly (I think).

 

[brenndatomu]

Of

if that happened, do you think it was self-correct itself like a flooded engine? I ask bc I’m hoping that the new carb will work ok now that it’s hooked up correctly (I think).

Its possible that it was a lil piece of dirt or something, but often times if a float needle leaks, it will just have a tendency to do that.
If the oil smells like gas you will at the very least have to drain the oil and refill with new...and if the engine has a fuel valve on it, have it turned off whenever the engine is off...that will eliminate a drippy float running fuel into the oil.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Thank

Its possible that it was a lil piece of dirt or something, but often times if a float needle leaks, it will just have a tendency to do that.
If the oil smells like gas you will at the very least have to drain the oil and refill with new...and if the engine has a fuel valve on it, have it turned off whenever the engine is off...that will eliminate a drippy float running fuel into the oil.

Ok thanks. I just smelled the oil and it does not smell like gas to me. I had some of the oil on my hand and asked my wife if she smelled gas. She like no but it smells like something like that. When I mentioned it was oil she was like, yes oil.
I have the splitter with me up at our camp so changing the oil out will have to wait 2 weeks once back home with the oil changing stuff.

 

[StoveInNH]

So doing a little research, i think this particular carburetor’s float is not adjustable. It’s plastic and held in place by a pin. It was 17 dollars on amazon. Do you think it may be worth it to just buy another identical carburetor thinking the one I have now is defective?

Most floats are adjustable by bending the metal that it's attached to a bit. That's standard float adjustment.

 

[brenndatomu]

Thank

Ok thanks. I just smelled the oil and it does not smell like gas to me. I had some of the oil on my hand and asked my wife if she smelled gas. She like no but it smells like something like that. When I mentioned it was oil she was like, yes oil.
I have the splitter with me up at our camp so changing the oil out will have to wait 2 weeks once back home with the oil changing stuff.

If it doesn't smell like gas then that's not it...could just be flooded? Take choke off and pull it a few times with throttle full open...if no luck then try choke again for a few pulls...

Most floats are adjustable by bending the metal that it's attached to a bit. That's standard float adjustment.

He said above that the float is all plastic, non adjustable...common with these elcheapo carbs...

 

[brenndatomu]

I started looking at the carb again and saw that the thicker of the 2 metal wires controlled by the throttle was not connected. I remember it seemed difficult to put this in the correct hole when I did it and apparently it came loose. I was able to connect it correctly, which was a lot more difficult that the original carb.

So if this is the governor control rod, that would cause the low power/running issues that you had in the 1st post...

 

[Ctwoodtick]

If it doesn't smell like gas then that's not it...could just be flooded? Take choke off and pull it a few times with throttle full open...if no luck then try choke again for a few pulls...

He said above that the float is all plastic, non adjustable...common with these elcheapo carbs...

ok sounds great. I’ll try this tomorrow.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

So if this is the governor control rod, that would cause the low power/running issues that you had in the 1st post...

Ok thank you. I had a feeling that would be the case. Learning a lot about my splitter here. Good stuff.

 

[Eman85]

Whole lot going on here. You said you pulled the cord and the motor wouldn't turn, then you removed the pull start mechanism and it was working fine. At that point you should have removed the spark plug and seen if it was wet and if the engine would turn freely. Basic theory, you can't compress a liquid.