I saw a couple of you tube videos (from different people) who had bad comments about the Stihl HP Ultra 2 cycle oil. One of them concerned an insufficient amount of oil film in the crankcase. (That person fixes chainsaws). I have had a Stihl chainsaw go bad on me that had minimal hours on it. The piston scored and I lost compression. I thought it might have been due to running it in Feb and the mixture got lean. But after seeing this I am thinking maybe it was the oil.. Anyone else have issues after using this Oil? I bough a bunch of it a few months ago, but if people have had issues, I might mix it with a different brand to get better lubrication.
Stihl HP Ultra - anyone have issues with this Oil
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I saw the same videos. There is nothing scientific about their opinion, just that they couldn't see oil pooling up. That's like looking under a GTO at the color of the driveway oil stain to see how she's running. I think, still unscientific, that the quality of both the machining and the oil has changed and it doesn't need a huge space filled with oil.
Stihl oil is $1/oz. though. I just bought twelve 12.8 bottles (mixes 5 gal) of Husky XP+ at Walmart online for $67 ($0.44/oz)
Stihl oil is $1/oz. though. I just bought twelve 12.8 bottles (mixes 5 gal) of Husky XP+ at Walmart online for $67 ($0.44/oz)
Gearhead660
Minister of Fire
In a 2-stroke the oil film is everything, no oil means no lubrication. I've blown up more high hp 2-stroke motors than I care to admit, there seems to be 3 common modes of failure:
Lack of lubrication
Lean burn down
Detonation
Not to say this oil is bad, it just might need to be mixed at a higher ratio. maybe 40:1 instead of 50:1.
Fuel also has an impact, and ethanol helps to wash oil out of the engine.
Lack of lubrication
Lean burn down
Detonation
Not to say this oil is bad, it just might need to be mixed at a higher ratio. maybe 40:1 instead of 50:1.
Fuel also has an impact, and ethanol helps to wash oil out of the engine.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Agreed...50:1 leaves no room for error...that's only 20cc of oil in 1000 cc of gas...very thin! 4 strokes need 100% pure oil, even a 50/50 oil/gas dilution will cause destruction...I know its a lil different animal, but think about it, the same people that preach using the best oil, and changing it religiously, will then turn right around and run 50:1 in their 2 strokes, instead of a few more drops (a lil more insurance) to get 40:1. I even run 32:1 if I know I am going to be running something particularly hard...still no visible smoke after warm up. I tend to run about the longest bar that a particular model saw will run though too.
Nealm66
Minister of Fire
Isaac Carlson
Minister of Fire
I run at 50:1 and use the gas to rinse the oil container. It all goes in the gas can. I run ported saws and they work hard. I use 91 octane and no ethanol. Keep the air filter clean and check the tune every time you take it out and it shouldn't be a problem. I carry a tuning screwdriver everywhere the saw goes. There should not be pooled oil in the case or anywhere else. It only takes a thin film to protect the parts and lubricate the bearings piston.
With as much fuel as my bigger saw gulps down in 10 minutes, and the amount of oil in the gas tank at 50:1, I don't think the bearings can hold any more oil. It's mist lubrication, not splash lubrication.
With as much fuel as my bigger saw gulps down in 10 minutes, and the amount of oil in the gas tank at 50:1, I don't think the bearings can hold any more oil. It's mist lubrication, not splash lubrication.
Vg3200p
Minister of Fire
I mix all mine at 32:1 I buy whatever twc3 rated oil is on sale. Downside to a fatter mix on newer stuff is you gotta pull that dumb@$$ screen outta the muffler
I use Stihl orange bottle oil instead of the synthetic, buy it by the gallon and use a ratio rite cup to mix. I know loggers that use the synthetic and are very happy with it. The fact that Stihl will double their warranty on a new saw with that oil says they believe in it. Some people can tear up a new anvil with a rubber hammer and blame it on something besides themselves.
Nealm66
Minister of Fire
I thought the orange was also synthetic. Just not as environmental friendly? I buy mix by the gallons or 5 gallon buckets so I asked a mechanic at madsens who’s been there for at least 35 years and I trust before I made a bulk purchase. His approval was enough for me. So far so good.
salecker
Minister of Fire
32:1 with good oil
some Seafoam in the mix.
Zero issues with anything,saws run good year around ,tune for the temperature.
Running Modern saws,ported saws, and antique saws all on the same mix.
Stores for years with the Seafoam in it.
some Seafoam in the mix.
Zero issues with anything,saws run good year around ,tune for the temperature.
Running Modern saws,ported saws, and antique saws all on the same mix.
Stores for years with the Seafoam in it.
Running water craft oil in an air cooled chain saw? Wow.
I did that one time... just because I had some summer mix from the jet skis to get rid of. About two minutes into the first cut, the saw lost power and died, never to restart. Massively scored cylinder and torched rings. I should have known, but apparently the lubrication requirements for a (lake) water cooled engine are a bit different than a hot running air cooled chain saw!
I know everyone on the internet likes to think they know better than the design engineers and have cooked up some secret lubrication sauce in their shed, but this is one I'd stay far away from. I guess 32:1 will cover a multitude of sins on the oil side until all that oil carbons up the piston and starts leading to detonation. But still...wow!
Running water craft oil in an air cooled chain saw? Wow.
I did that one time... just because I had some summer mix from the jet skis to get rid of. About two minutes into the first cut, the saw lost power and died, never to restart. Massively scored cylinder and torched rings. I should have known, but apparently the lubrication requirements for a (lake) water cooled engine are a bit different than a hot running air cooled chain saw!
I know everyone on the internet likes to think they know better than the design engineers and have cooked up some secret lubrication sauce in their shed, but this is one I'd stay far away from. I guess 32:1 will cover a multitude of sins on the oil side until all that oil carbons up the piston and starts leading to detonation. But still...wow!
Nealm66
Minister of Fire
Vg3200p
Minister of Fire
Vg3200p
Minister of Fire
Hadn't killed mine in 2 yrs of use. But I definitely will stop doing this. Hope I didn't trash my motor
I quite using it because it smells bad versus some other synthetic oils. It gives me a headache for what ever reason. Also I don't think it is fd rated. I use makita full synthetic and just got some amsoil synthetic. They hardly smell and I don't get a headache. Yeah yeah, I know, I'm worse than a woman. Lol
xman23
Minister of Fire
I have been running the Sthil synthetic since they came out with it. It was my understanding they doubled there saw warranty if you used it. I don't know if that's still the case now. I use it in all my air cooled machines. It burns clean and very little plug fouling.
Vg3200p
Minister of Fire
After all on this thread showed me the error of my ways. I went and got some stihl hp ultra. Dumped my twc3 mix in my truck. Thanks for saving my saw and weedeater motors
As I said I never used the ultra but I can say that my original Stihl weedeater is still running and it's 35 years old and done a lot of weedeating. It's never had anything but Stihl or Husqvarna oil in it along with all of my other 2 strokes. Most bought new in the 80's and 90's and used a lot and stll going strong.
DodgyNomad
Minister of Fire
I've been running the Stihl Ultra lately because someone gave me a case. I don't especially like the smell. I'm going back to the echo red armor next chance I get. I'm sure both are fine oils and do the job well, but the Stihl stinks a bit to me. I've heard very good things about the echo from some builders.
Isaac Carlson
Minister of Fire
People have been giving me stihl hp lately as well. I now have 2 cases that I don't want to use. My brand of choice is Tall Timber. Been running it for 15 years at 50:1 in ported saws and it doesn't smell too bad and no carbon buildup. I tune to burble that clears up in the cut and keep clean filters and sharp chains. I just bought a 372, and everyone says run em at 32:1 or 40:1, so I might up my mix. I've been running it at 50:1 for the last couple weeks because that's what I have on hand.
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