Storage for a pellet boiler

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iceguy4

Minister of Fire
Nov 16, 2011
1,039
Upstate, NY
I have two boilers plumbed in series to keep up on the coldest days(pellet 105,000 btu and oil 140,000 btu). On a long period of sub zero weather I may / will need both running to keep up. Would storage help me over the hump by helping to keep the oil from coming on (I don't think we are talking 50 gallons/year) or is the cost too much?
 
A buffer would only help in avoiding short-cycling of a boiler, although it could delay firing the oil boiler for a little while each time pellet boiler fell behind.

I take the radical view that if -- during the occasional cold snap -- the living room is nice and warm, and the kitchen and bedrooms are over 55 degF, and the boiler is running flat out, then my boiler is sized just right.
 
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What square footage are you trying to heat, Iceguy4?
Just curious.
245,000 BTU is a lot of juice.
 
What square footage are you trying to heat, Iceguy4?
Just curious.
245,000 BTU is a lot of juice.
The other building(in law apt) is 24X30...2 stories plus fully exposed basement...28 feet away...primary structure about 2500 sq feet...all old both buildings have full basements and must be heated
 
I like the radical view. Kitchen, living room and dining room, all open to each other stay very comfortable no matter how cold it is outside, even into the -40'sF, while the bedroom can get into the low 50's. Good snuggling temperatures.
 
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The other building(in law apt) is 24X30...2 stories plus fully exposed basement...28 feet away...primary structure about 2500 sq feet...all old both buildings have full basements and must be heated
something is wrong. that is an enormous amount of btu. have you done a load calc? how about an energy audit?
 
How is the heat transferred to "the other" building? Assuming underground lines, how was that done?

My expierence with the PB105 is that it may not really put out 105,000 btu/hr, I'd guestimate around 90,000 realisticly, unless you have softwood pellets. Still that is a lot of heat, boilers piped in series is not the most efficient way to go.

TS
 
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Agreed.

For some reason Ice you are consuming the same btu that 6 - 1500ish sq/ft houses would consume in my area.

That's at -40 mind you & I don't know if you see those kind of temps. 40K btu/hr is my load at -40 with +/- 1300 sq/ft up & down & both floors kept at 72::F. 1960's construction.

Something is wrong to be sure. Perhaps you added an extra zero to the capacity of those boilers?
 
How is the heat transferred to "the other" building? Assuming underground lines, how was that done?

My expierence with the PB105 is that it may not really put out 105,000 btu/hr, I'd guestimate around 90,000 realisticly, unless you have softwood pellets. Still that is a lot of heat, boilers piped in series is not the most efficient way to go.

TS
Well I cant tell exactly how many btu's my pellet boiler puts out cuz I'm not British...But I can say Harman says "up to 113,900 btu's. anyway it heated the primary house last year and would often shut off because I ran it on auto.
boilers piped in series is not the most efficient way to go
I have a fields control oil vent damper...my losses are minimal
I have hoped to use either or and sized with that in mind
My oil boiler newer Utica 3 pass 86.5% 140,000 mbtu input..120,000 "heating capacity"
 
Underground lines?

Good to hear about the auto oil damper. There is a lot of draft losses from any boiler connected to a chimney that is hot all the time.

TS
 
what is the delta t during normal operation
::DT T where?I have 2 buildings and 7 zones at the time...at least 2 more zones coming.

does it have a delay timer
There is a lockout if it doesn't open .after the burn is over it will remain open for like 5 min + - then it closes. When I installed it I checked its operation with a cigarette and there is NO leakage noticeable. It is a fairly easy install. Here is the link...http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/h...mpaignId=T9A&gclid=CNOqwsrhobsCFYlaMgodoGwA2A If the link doesn't work Google it.


Good to hear about the auto oil damper. There is a lot of draft losses from any boiler connected to a chimney that is hot all the time.

TS[/quote]
Boilerman...If you notice in the picture there are stainless "fingers" that make the seal much better then a typical damper..
 
::DT T where?I have 2 buildings and 7 zones at the time...at least 2 more zones coming.

There is a lockout if it doesn't open .after the burn is over it will remain open for like 5 min + - then it closes. When I installed it I checked its operation with a cigarette and there is NO leakage noticeable. It is a fairly easy install. Here is the link...http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/h...mpaignId=T9A&gclid=CNOqwsrhobsCFYlaMgodoGwA2A If the link doesn't work Google it.


Good to hear about the auto oil damper. There is a lot of draft losses from any boiler connected to a chimney that is hot all the time.

TS
Boilerman...If you notice in the picture there are stainless "fingers" that make the seal much better then a typical damper..[/quote]
delta t between supply and return at the boiler. I was more concerned about it not being opened long enough after shut down. 5 minutes should be ok. they usually say 5-7 minutes. they need a delay to close.
 
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