does anyone have the storage tank from new horizon? 400 some gallon pressurized and insulated sound good. if anyone has one how is it working and how much $$? thanks
storage tank
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I have that tank it was 2300.00 delivered. It is not the same width as advertised so it would not fit thru my basement door.The nipples stick out too far and are welded in .I had to cut them and re weld once inside. The tank leaked and again I had to weld. New horizon said to send them the bill, I did but have not received payment yet . I will post when and if I get payment.I would still buy it again only because it is the right size for my limited space and it is built very good. The insulation is not very much so if you buy it plan on adding more.
Last I checked, new horizon wasn't selling that tank anymore. They were in the process of finding another source.
The fix went good, it works very good but now Im having trouble with air in the system. Thanks for asking. Any suggestions on air removal ?
KarlK said:
I always had my air problems in the lines that are in the house. Being a poor plumber I have a lot of dips in my pex running through the house. I fill my system with water in the house which happens to be half way in my supply line. I flush the lines both directions using shut offs and it seems to help me get the air out of the lines. I have two air handlers that don't like to give up the air so a hard flush seems to help. Also on top of my storage I ran a line (white lines in photo) from each tank to a manifold (other photo) with a air handler at the top because this is the highest point in my system.
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Thanks for the photos Im not much of a plumber myself,I will try something similar to what you did .
Word of caution - before you insulate the tank after putting in air lines like I did - be sure to to somehow brace the lines. I forgot how much they will stretch when heated to 180 degrees and I had to try and lift the lines back in place after I blew in cellulose insulation. They sagged quite a bit. A wooden dowel or something similar would work well as you could zip tie the line to the dowel. The lines have to be fairly straight so that any air will move up to the air handler and not sit in a dip in the line.
Thought occurred to maybe temporarily plumb in a small real pump with isolation valves in parallel with a main circulator to force water through the system, pushing air to vent sites, to clear air out of the system. Once air is out and system pressurized, there should be no more air that won't be dissolved and expired through the air scoop, unless the system needs to be de-pressurized for service.
Scott here. How has your system performed with your big storage tanks? Maybe compare with your Central Boiler. Also, has the 3/4" pex seemed to carry enough water for you?
As for air, seems like sometimes you can even open and shut some manual valves to get things moving. This time around for me, Im making sure my pumps are low in the system cycle.
As for air, seems like sometimes you can even open and shut some manual valves to get things moving. This time around for me, Im making sure my pumps are low in the system cycle.
barnartist said:
So far I'm pleased. I still have a few bugs to work out. Part of my problem is that the circulator that I'm using for the house zone is way to large. I'm mixing the tanks really bad. I manually shut off most of the flow and it has helped allot so I order a Taco 3 speed pump (should be in this week) and hopefully that will help. I'm using allot less wood than with the CB. When the EKO is burning it's amazing how much water it heats in a hurry. I couldn't imagine in using this large of a stove without storage to put the heat into.
How do you think the mixing hurts your syatem? I will surely be too big then as I have a taco 0013 for my house loop. Maybe I should put one of my 007 on it you think? Are you able to get the tanks up to the heat you want? How long can you heat without a fire? Allot of questions-sorry.
barnartist said:
Part of my problem is that I run two airhandlers for my heat on one zone. I have a two stall garage under half of my house that is not very well insulated and I loose alot of heat here so I have a airhandler running almost 24 hours during cold periods. With this setup, I have to have my house zone run 24 hours a day so with my Grundfos Circulator (I'm at work and can't remember the size - but its close to the Taco 013). I was leaving the top of the tank at 180 and returning at 160ish but the water was flowing so fast that I would loose all of my stratification and have the whole tank at 170, 160, 150 etc. What I ended up doing is I have two shutoffs (one in the basement and one at the storage site) and I closed them both off about half way to slow down the gpm. This has accomplished two things - (1) The temp returning to the tanks has dropped so I'm putting in alot cooler water to the bottom of the tanks, and (2) The rate of flow to and from the tanks has dropped which has lead to my tanks staying stratafied alot longer. I have had no problem getting the tanks up to 185. I have a 2-way modulating valve in the boiler output line that will not allow any water to leave the boiler until it reaches 180 degrees. I don't really have a answer yet on the heat w/out a fire as I just figured out my statification problem so hopefully I'll know alot more next week after I get the three speed Taco installed. I haven't received the new circ yet but I got if for $102.00 which isn't much more than the 007 and with the three speeds it looks like a pretty good buy for the flexibality it offers.
Sounds interesting. I ran a 500gal tank for 3 years, pretty much the whole tank at the same temp. Im not convinced yet on the benifits of stratification, but I am re-plumming my sytem this year just in this manner, so I should find out soon as well.
I too have air exchagers that do most of my heating. They do though seem to keep the house warm even at lower water temps.
I too have air exchagers that do most of my heating. They do though seem to keep the house warm even at lower water temps.
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