Hi! I would like to get other peoples' opinions on if the area where I am planning on placing the Fireview stove is going to be structurally sound. I am planning on putting it in my living room in-front of the wall that goes to the basement and upstairs. Being that my living room is small this is the only feasible space to put the stove in regards to how I will run the chimney. The only problem with this location is that the joists in the basement where the steps are do not span the entire length of the house but are instead resting on a 1 x 4 which is almost directly above where the stove would be sitting. I am wondering if the stove which weighs 475 pounds plus the weight of the stove floor-board (not sure the weight of this) is too much? Would you feel comfortable placing the stove there if this was your house?
Stove too heavy for where I want to place it?
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Simonkenton
Minister of Fire
I have built a lot of floor systems. I don't understand what you mean, "the joist don't span the entire floor, and they rest on a 1x4." Post some photos, or explain this better.
This sounds like a subfloor that was not built to code.
This sounds like a subfloor that was not built to code.
Thank you for your response! The house was built in 1952, so I am not sure if codes existed back then. I'm at work now and only have access of the listing photos from when the house was for sale ~ I will try to take some additional ones tonight. The first picture is of the living room. I am planning on putting the Fireview where the tv is but behind that wall is the stairwell to the basement. The second photo is of the basement. From the bottom step and going 9'3" back there are 6 joists which don't span to the concrete foundation but are instead butted into a 1 X4 that is attached to the half wall above the steps - directly behind the HVAC ducts that are in the picture. I am wondering if this location will be strong enough to support the stove along with any floor protection and wall protection. I hope that this helps!
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Bad LP
Minister of Fire
Behind the duct looks like a double or triple header joist. No? You could help the situation out with a load bearing wall in the cellar if you have a problem.
No such thing as a 1X4 in house framing.
No such thing as a 1X4 in house framing.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
Ha! You wouldn't think so but I've found plenty. Those stout floor joists I bet are connected to something, the stairs are not new so the original construction which looks stout should be verified.
I have added a short beam and pair of columns under my stove just for a little extra safety. It's not just the stove weight but also the 50 lbs of fuel, the 200# of hearth, and the three or four fat chicks warming up their buns.... and dancing.
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Simonkenton
Minister of Fire
Not much help. But, those joists look OK in that photo. This house has gone through a lot in 66 years, I bet those joists are done right. Need more detailed photos of the demonic 1x4.
Like the guy said I have never used a 1x4 in making a subfloor. Nor, a 1x8, this is no place for teeny weeny boards.
Like the guy said I have never used a 1x4 in making a subfloor. Nor, a 1x8, this is no place for teeny weeny boards.
There is probably a 1x4 nailed to the doubled framing at the stairs. The floor joists are then notched to sit on that before being toenailed in. It was very common here and is plenty strong.
It's hard to get all the details from your photos, but it looks like good lumber, 2x10 or even 2x12, hard to tell. Double header (If present) would probably be adequate. The weak point in that setup appears to be the joists where the header terminates. You are effectively placing the entire LL/DL of the "shortened" joists on the header, the header is then transferring the load from all those joists as two point loads on the two joist where the header terminates. This looks to be toe-nailed into the joist. Unless the two joists where the header terminates are beefier than the other "typical" floor joists and there is a structural connection, I'd say there is probably a deficiency.
I'm sure you will be fine, as its stood the test of time, but just my thought.
I'm sure you will be fine, as its stood the test of time, but just my thought.
Hi everyone and thank you all for you replies! I was finally able to take some pictures of the area in question. Please let me know your opinions on if you would place a 475 lb soapstone stove along with floor and wall protectors on top of the area that you are seeing below in the photos.
Prior to realizing that this area was going to be of concern in regards to the joists I was going to build a raised hearth along with boxing out around the stove and putting up a mantel . . . I'm not sure if that can happen in this location . . . .
So my 2 questions are:
1. Is this area strong enough to hold just the stove and floor/wall protectors?
2. How much weight would one feel comfortable placing in that area - still would like to see if the original idea of raised hearth and mantel is possible along with stove. . .
**Just to point out that photo 4 is of a wooden toy that I was able to slide between the joist and header - although I did see that the joists are also nailed into the header and the 1x4.
Thanks again to everyone!!
Prior to realizing that this area was going to be of concern in regards to the joists I was going to build a raised hearth along with boxing out around the stove and putting up a mantel . . . I'm not sure if that can happen in this location . . . .
So my 2 questions are:
1. Is this area strong enough to hold just the stove and floor/wall protectors?
2. How much weight would one feel comfortable placing in that area - still would like to see if the original idea of raised hearth and mantel is possible along with stove. . .
**Just to point out that photo 4 is of a wooden toy that I was able to slide between the joist and header - although I did see that the joists are also nailed into the header and the 1x4.
Thanks again to everyone!!
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jetsam
Minister of Fire
Framing aside, there may be no subfloor- so the weight of a stove leg may be a bit much for a 3/4" piece of wood flooring sitting on 16" OC joists.
You could put down plywood and micore to distribute the weight without taking up the flooring, if there is really no subfloor.
You could put down plywood and micore to distribute the weight without taking up the flooring, if there is really no subfloor.
I'm no contractor, but I am wondering if Simpson strong tie ML angles could be used to tie the joists to the header?
I have my T5 over t&g flooring directly over the 2x6 floor joists. The 2x6s were spanning their limit of 8ft, so I doubled them up. It never occurred to me that the t&g might be in danger. Nothing has happened yet, so I'm thinking this might not be an issue. Being cast iron clad, it's not a light stove either.
I agree with BG, it's cheap insurance to throw a bracket or add a bit more 1x4 and throw a joist tie in there with appropriate nails.
I agree with BG, it's cheap insurance to throw a bracket or add a bit more 1x4 and throw a joist tie in there with appropriate nails.
Header and outside joists are all doubled up and should be structurally adequate.
I would go to HD or Lowes and get some 5" or 5.5" GRK structural screws. Lag 3 through the double 2x's into each joist. Just my thought
I would go to HD or Lowes and get some 5" or 5.5" GRK structural screws. Lag 3 through the double 2x's into each joist. Just my thought
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
Since the staircase is right there, it would be no loss of floor space to add two columns and a beam under those joists.
Huckleberry
Member
Those look like rough-cut 2x10s.
Simpson makes hangers sized for rough-cut lumber.
I would, one at a time, cut out the 1x4 and install
the appropriate size hanger with the correct nails.
If you don't know how, get a qualified framing carpenter.
Simpson makes hangers sized for rough-cut lumber.
I would, one at a time, cut out the 1x4 and install
the appropriate size hanger with the correct nails.
If you don't know how, get a qualified framing carpenter.
Simpson Strong-Tie U Galvanized Face-Mount Joist Hanger for 2x10 Actual Rough Lumber U210R - The Home Depot
Simpson Strong-Tie connectors make projects easier to build while making them stronger and safer. They are engineered and tested to perform and are manufactured to the highest quality standards. Whether
www.homedepot.com
Simpson Strong-Tie Strong-Drive 1-1/2 in. x 0.148 in. SCN Smooth-Shank HDG Connector Nail (600-Pack) N10D5HDG-R - The Home Depot
Best-in-class, load-tested fasteners; Strong-Drive structural fasteners are engineered and extensively tested to efficiently meet your most demanding wood and metal applications. Stronger can also be faster. The Strong-Drive family is designed to install easier than other fastening methods...
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Joists were much stronger back then. Growth rings were much closer together not like the fast grown lumber of today. Plus they are rough sawn full dimension. They will hold anything you can put on them. You could easily add a stanchion post under that header centered in the span and add some joist hangers to the joist ends. The weakest link is the attachment of the joists to the header and the header ends. Easy modification and plenty safe.
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