Suggestions to improve air-tightness on vintage combination range?

[itzacyn1]

I'm in the process of restoring my Grandparent's 1951 Floyd-Welles (Royerston, PA) porcelain skin combination range. If there's anyone out there with the "Bengal" range or the identical "Happy Cooking" they produced for Fuelane Gas co, I'd welcome meeting them...there aren't many of these around anymore...once very popular in New England and PA.

It is now working under wood with a straight-up double wall stove pipe. I am tuning up the gas works with the remote help of a vintage gas stove pro in Oregon...now retired...who restored and sold them for 35 years.

The fireboxes on most are small, mine is no exception and I'm still on the quest for the coveted Overnight Burn. I'm using this as my sole heat and for cooking. My cottage is about 675 Sqr Ft. I've only had it in service a month and still learning it's quirks, but it did indeed heat a good 800 ft of my Grandparents house through the winter. Unfortunately they're no longer here to learn from.

I think the majority of the unwanted air suck if from the cook top...I can see it visibly at night. My initial thoughts are to install a flat gasket around the edges and perhaps the center seam for the 2 base plates to sit upon. They take up half the range...the other side is propane.

Also, while I'm at it here...for those of you in the Metro NY area and on L.I: Is there anyone specializing in "tuning up/repair" of vintage cookstoves in regards to the wood part? I'd like to have the springs on the draft and damper rods tightened or replaced as needed...the main damper is open and closed only right now...obviously worn or needs adjustment.

The fireplace stove stores won't touch anything they haven't sold...probably a combination of headache and liability.

Thank in advance for feedback and Happy Holidays!

 

[1kzwoman]

Google antique wood burning cook stove restoration companies

 

[coaly]

Normally leaks from the top allow air to slip up the chimney without entering firebox. This slows draft by cooling flue.

When using coal in both a Buckwalter cookstove or Sears Cottage heater with cooktop , I had to tilt a lid overnight to allow indoor air to leak into chimney slowing draft. This is called using the lid as a “check damper” which is the opening into chimney on the stove at chimney connection. This should only be done with coal, since it will over cool with wood forming creosote.

Are you using a magnetic thermometer?

Leaks under the fire or into firebox are the most important to slow the fire from too much oxygen. Leaks above the fire slow it by decreasing draft. Sealing them makes it burn faster.

Keep in mind the basics of what makes the stove work. Hot exhaust gases lighter than air rise up the chimney causing a low pressure area in chimney flue, pipe and stove. This allows atmospheric air pressure to PUSH into the intake or any opening it can. The chimney is the low pressure area, or vacuum. So that is where indoor air is trying to go, up the chimney to balance the pressure.