Surface rust in stove?

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StormPanic

Member
Oct 16, 2012
140
Merrimack Valley, MA
Anyone seen this before? Comes off with wire brush but don't feel like taking the stove apart to get at the tubes. I assume it will burn off once I light it in the fall.
 

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Yeah its hard to get at the tubes...I wire brush the best I can....clean off all the dust and paint with rustoleum stove paint...looks good as new...for the most part lol...the rust dies seem to burn off if left...some people spray with Pam ti keep the rust at a minimum right after the season
 
i tried pam my first off season. things got quite rusty.
of course i didn't have damp rid either. but i sprayed the pam heavily and it didn't help w/o the damp rid.
this year i used brush on stove paint. it goes on great w/ those cheap little wedge sponge brushes.
they made it easy to brush the inside face of the firebox and along the inner shelf/lip around the door opening inside.
i sprayed the firepot really well with spray graphite. as well as the exhaust channel before i put the motor back in after cleaning the blades.
i painted the channel as far in as i could reach from the the inside end. and sprayed the graphite farther back on the little i couldn't reach.
topped it off with the damp rid and it's doing great.

i check it regularly with a flashlight. no rust. and i've even been too lazy to paint the baffle plates yet.
i wire wheeled them off. so they are showing bare metal. but i have them stacked inside the firebox with the damp rid and there is zero rust even on them.

cleaning and painting time is the only time the non tube exchanger on the ps50 is actually a great thing. ;lol
 
Most should burn off.

But, if you continue to do nothing every year. Then the stove will rust from the inside, out, like a Truck in the Northern states.

Best to clean thoroughly, plug exhaust and OAK to seal out the Humid air that will cause rust, add a Damp Rid, only after painting the firebox, or spraying with Pam.

(Pam works, but needs cleaned well, exhaust sealed, and Damp Rid added to firebox.)
 
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I clean my Quad insert good, then I coat the entire inside with used vegetable oil...I spray it in then brush it everywhere and I take an old rag and moisten with the oil, and wipe all the door edges frame or anything that will get surface rust. I also plug the exhaust opening with a rag and put a note on the inside of the glass, telling me not to forget to remove the rag. So far in 5 seasons I have zero rust.
 
Most should burn off.

But, if you continue to do nothing every year. Then the stove will rust from the inside, out, like a Truck in the Northern states.

Best to clean thoroughly, plug exhaust and OAK to seal out the Humid air that will cause rust, add a Damp Rid, only after painting the firebox, or spraying with Pam.

(Pam works, but needs cleaned well, exhaust sealed, and Damp Rid added to firebox.)

Seal off the exhaust......... that makes sense. Guess my first summer shut down left a bit to be desired. Thank goodness for this forum.
 
Plug vent, intake, drop tube. Silica gel in fire box, no rust. Microwave Silica once a week.
 
Damp rid is calcium chloride.


also has potassium chloride.

(broken link removed to http://www.damprid.com/sites/damprid.com/files/DampRidNZ%20%20FG01KEN,%20FG37H%20SDS.pdf)

slla was refering to silica alone.

but a couple people from that thread i linked got reactions with (wet) damp rid in a microwave. one guy posted a pic.
 
also has potassium chloride.

(broken link removed to http://www.damprid.com/sites/damprid.com/files/DampRidNZ%20%20FG01KEN,%20FG37H%20SDS.pdf)

(broken link removed to http://www.damprid.com/sites/damprid.com/files/DampRidNZ%20%20FG01KEN,%20FG37H%20SDS.pdf)

but a couple from that thread i linked got reactions with (wet) damp rid. one guy posted a pic.

Yep, small amounts are possible.

Point was, silica is what the previous fella mentioned putting in the microwave.
 
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