Ok.. so I happened to be looking in the peep hole on the bottom door when the fan was on and i was admiring the gasification ( a little addicted still) and the fan went off because it was up to temp... and as i watched... it kept having a small gasifiaction type flame coming out the bottom.. sort of like seeping down. Is that normal? lasted quite some time... 5 minutes or so? Also... aprox how many watts am I looking at for running this system. 4 circs on it. I am trying to calculate to determine the size of generatto I will need to run my house. Just and idea.. aprox.
Tarm gasification with no fan?
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Birdman I get a little bit of flame too, just until it uses up all the oxyegen, never timed it though. The circ pumps whould have a amp rating on them I think the TACO's are .71 or so. Amps x volts = watts
.71 x 115= 82 watts. times 4 = 328 watts. plus controls plus start up, usally 2 time running. You probably wouldn't have more than 2 starting up at the same time so 2x(2 x 82)+ 164 (the other 2)= 492 Always round up, alot. Pumps don't draw much, but it never hurts to have more capacity.
I'm looking into that TRIPP inverter/charger at 750 watts for just the Tarm. They also have a 1250 watt unit. It works like a UPS, i.e. passes house power through until it goes off then immediatly switches to battery back up. When the power comes back on (or I run the generator) it switches back to house current and recharges the batteries.
This way I can have heat 24/7 without running the generator all the time. I've got 7 circs, the fan, the valve and auto mag plus the controls. I'm going to plug it into a gizmo call a kill-o-watt meter that tracks energy usage, gives max current and total over time, which will be usefull when figuring the size/number of batteries.
.71 x 115= 82 watts. times 4 = 328 watts. plus controls plus start up, usally 2 time running. You probably wouldn't have more than 2 starting up at the same time so 2x(2 x 82)+ 164 (the other 2)= 492 Always round up, alot. Pumps don't draw much, but it never hurts to have more capacity.
I'm looking into that TRIPP inverter/charger at 750 watts for just the Tarm. They also have a 1250 watt unit. It works like a UPS, i.e. passes house power through until it goes off then immediatly switches to battery back up. When the power comes back on (or I run the generator) it switches back to house current and recharges the batteries.
This way I can have heat 24/7 without running the generator all the time. I've got 7 circs, the fan, the valve and auto mag plus the controls. I'm going to plug it into a gizmo call a kill-o-watt meter that tracks energy usage, gives max current and total over time, which will be usefull when figuring the size/number of batteries.
Model #: PV750FC
Is this the Tripp model? How does this setup work. Do i have to have an electrician wire the Tarm up to do this?
Is this the Tripp model? How does this setup work. Do i have to have an electrician wire the Tarm up to do this?
My understanding is that you find the power run that goes to your boiler (make sure all of your circ's controls and fans are on the same run) cut it (with the power off) wire on two plugs, male and female, plug the inverter into the hot side (female), plug your boiler into the inverter, and clip the 12 volt leads to a battery.
On my set up I have one circuit that is dedicated to the boiler, it comes down from that red switch on the basement stairs to the boiler. All of my fans, circs, and controls are on the same run.
Right now I just have a regular inverter, hence the two plug set up. If/when the power goes out I go down stairs unplug the two plugs and plug into my inverter. When the power comes back I just plug them back together. This is the brute force method.
On my set up I have one circuit that is dedicated to the boiler, it comes down from that red switch on the basement stairs to the boiler. All of my fans, circs, and controls are on the same run.
Right now I just have a regular inverter, hence the two plug set up. If/when the power goes out I go down stairs unplug the two plugs and plug into my inverter. When the power comes back I just plug them back together. This is the brute force method.
I have a 500 watt charger/ inverter. At this time I just have the Solo 30 with one circ powered from it as well as the solar controller. I might include some of the other circs in the future but at this time it keeps the boiler alive which is in a utility room open to the house. I can manually open the zone valves for the baseboards rather than running the additional circs for the radiant. I have both in this big old house.
The fan in the solo draws about 35 watts if I recall, Plus a few more for the system, I have added some 24V transformers for control circuits. And the 85 watts or so for the 007 circ on the unit. Call it 120 watts to run the boiler.
We were lucky and were out of power for the short side of two hours last week and the system worked fine.
I expect in the future with extended outages I will charge the batteries with jumpers from a vehicle since that will bring them up faster than the system charger will on the generator.
The fan in the solo draws about 35 watts if I recall, Plus a few more for the system, I have added some 24V transformers for control circuits. And the 85 watts or so for the 007 circ on the unit. Call it 120 watts to run the boiler.
We were lucky and were out of power for the short side of two hours last week and the system worked fine.
I expect in the future with extended outages I will charge the batteries with jumpers from a vehicle since that will bring them up faster than the system charger will on the generator.
Just plug the Tripp into an outlet. Dedicated if you have one. Then plug the boiler into the Tripp. I am going to try using a 450 watt that I already have and use a larger battery bank. Will post results. Joe
OK I just cut the line to the boiler and added the two plugs that I was talking about. I plugged in the killowatt meter and started getting some numbers.
The boiler running with two grundflos 15-58's and two taco 007's was drawing 375 watts. Thats the fan, controls, 24 volt transformer, automag valve and motorized ball valve and the four pumps.
The only other things that could possibly come on would be my other three taco 007's @82 watts each. Thats would be a total of about 620 watts. So in my worst case senerio I should handle everything with my 700/1400 surge inverter.
The boiler running with two grundflos 15-58's and two taco 007's was drawing 375 watts. Thats the fan, controls, 24 volt transformer, automag valve and motorized ball valve and the four pumps.
The only other things that could possibly come on would be my other three taco 007's @82 watts each. Thats would be a total of about 620 watts. So in my worst case senerio I should handle everything with my 700/1400 surge inverter.
Did that also handle the draft fan?
I would expect way more of a draw on startup of any pump or fan, no matter how small. After they're up and running, consumption goes down to the rated watts.
Great thread.
I would expect way more of a draw on startup of any pump or fan, no matter how small. After they're up and running, consumption goes down to the rated watts.
Great thread.
That was everything including the draft fan. Don't know what the peak draw was, I'll have to watch the meter while the wife turns things off & on. I would expect the draw to double momentarily for the pump that’s coming on. The worst I can see is two pumps coming on at the same time which would add another 160 - 200 watts for a few seconds, and that would be at the beginning of the cycle. At the higher end it would only be adding one pump at a time since the other circulating pumps would already be on.
My most likely scenario is two or three zones calling for heat at once. This is only to run the heat in-between times that I run the generator.
My goal is to be sitting in the hot tub with a beer and a warm house while the neighbours are sitting in the dark
My most likely scenario is two or three zones calling for heat at once. This is only to run the heat in-between times that I run the generator.
My goal is to be sitting in the hot tub with a beer and a warm house while the neighbours are sitting in the dark
This really has become a hot topic. Next major power outage will revive it, too.
For the benefit of those reading this that are not familiar with 12V inverter operation, "clipping" the leads to a battery doesn't mean wrapping wires around terminals or using jumper cables. You need to use battery terminals like a car uses or like a diesel truck if you have more than a small inverter. The startup inrush current that an inverter pulls can be hard to imagine. If you want a system large enough to power a whole heating system like 600 running watts you're looking at more like a kilowatt when the inverter kicks in. And if your system has been idle for a while ALL the motors can start all at once. That could pull around 100 amps through your battery terminals. Cheesy connections can vaporize with a flash that can and has started fires. And it makes the inverter work harder.
I think most dealers will sell good battery terminals and cable if only for their own benefit. Fewer problems with poor performance in the field.
End of sermon.
Baxi "tarm" have a inverter for the innova and the older Solo seris.
its on 650w
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its on 650w
(broken link removed to http://www.baxi.se/visa_produkt.asp?produktid=36&Kategori=11&Produkttyp=5)
(broken link removed to http://translate.google.se/translate?hl=sv&u=http://www.baxi.se/UppladdadeFiler/PDF/Teknisk) data 650RP.pdf&sl=sv&tl=en
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