The baffle for my old Earth Stove is totally missing and the part is NLA

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Jan 16, 2020
13
Diamond Springs, CA
Would you guys please take pity on me and tell me how to construct a baffle for my old Earth Stove model 105?

As I'm sure you recall, the Earth Stove 100 series was a BIG strapper! And without a baffle it's a wood-hog "squared". It's too wide for any of the fiber baffles that are available. Maybe I should weld up a support structure out of steel strap and use two of the fiber-type baffles?

Or can I make the baffle out of a single piece of steel plate? If so, how thick should it be?

Whether I make it out of steel or fiber, what shape should it be and how far should it extend toward the front and rear of the firebox?

Thank you very much in advance. retroguy
 
I have no experience with your stove, but I do have a boiler with baffle that is no longer available. My boiler has a set of tracks on either side of the boiler to keep the baffles in place so I have buy three baffles that are about 17 long by 4" wide that I can slide in. The originals must have been of some heat resistant plate but I just go to the local steel shop and order about 8 at time. As I use the stove they eventually droop down and if I wait to long they will fall into the fire and I need to pull them out and bend them straight again. Takes me 5 minutes. The plate slowly lose thickness and tend to droop quicker so at some point I just slide in new ones.
 
5/16 thick mild steel. (A-36)
1/4 inch warps and sags in time. 5/16 stays straight.
You could make it the same size as the original if you can see where it was. When replacing, it's better to make it for the chimney you're using.

The area the exhaust passes through(smoke space) can not be any smaller than the square inch area of the outlet which should match the chimney flue. This fabricates a baffle plate for the chimney size, which is more efficient than most from the factory. When that stove was designed, they had to make them able to use an existing larger chimney. Most flues were 8 X 8 or 64 square inches. So the area the smoke travels through was larger than it needed to be in case it was connected to a larger chimney needing more waste heat. If you have an insulated liner the same size as the stove outlet, you can now make the baffle the same size as the 6 inch flue or 28.26 square inch opening minimum increasing the efficiency of the stove.

Make a cardboard template and set in place to measure the open area. Adjust the size of template until you get the exact opening you need. Make the steel plate from that template. This will customize the stove for the chimney. If you used to close a flue damper partially, that adjustment will change and need to be farther open since the larger baffle adds resistance in the firebox. The flue damper adds resistance by slowing gasses rising up chimney. if you had smoke roll in issues or a poor drafting chimney, you can't make the smoke space any smaller than it was.
 
The firebox is 25" wide, and I have an 8"-diameter flue. That means the cross-sectional area of the flue is about 50 square inches, so my smoke space would be only 2" wide; i.e. the baffle will cover all but a 2"-wide section of the firebox. Does that sound correct?