Top auger stops turning after stove warms up

herringbone Posted By herringbone, Feb 7, 2018 at 8:42 PM

  1. herringbone

    herringbone
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    Feb 7, 2018
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    I have a 25-PDV, 55-SHP22, 55-TRP22 built in 2008. Last year I replaced the Exhaust fan, the room blower, glass and door gaskets and the heat sensor and after using the stove for a couple of months it would start up, the room blower would start and then the top auger would quit. If I kept throwing pellets in the stove it would start feeding again eventually and after a while it would run fine until I shut it down to clean it and then I would have to do the same thing with code E1 if I didn't hand feed it pellets. Recently it would only feed until it got warm and the room blower would come on and it then would feed no more. I jumpered the vacuum switch and it worked ok. Since then I have cleaned the stove and exhaust entirely, removed the exhaust fan, cleaned and reinstalled, cleaned out the vacuum tube, replaced the vacuum switch and hose, sealed the exhaust joints with silicone and aluminum tape, checked the door seal with a bill, adjusted the lid hatches. Started right up, room fan started and then it quit feeding on the top auger. No codes.Today I replaced the auger motor as I thought it may be weak and like an old starter on a car it was getting hot and creating an open so it would stop. I also jumpered both vacuum switches and the lid switch, (not all at once), and replaced the aluminum intake hose in case it somehow got a hole in it. same thing, starts, blows then quits feeding. Again no codes. This stove has ran since November 2008 without a hitch other that a couple of auger motors. I am at a loss. I still have the old heat sensor but I didn't have the wrenches to install it. Checked the one on the stove and it is tight. Only thing I can think of that I didn't do today is the hose from the vacuum switch of the firebox which I neglected to check but wouldn't jumpering the switch take that out of the equation. Anyone have ANY answers?? Could it be the mainboard? Oh yeah, I checked the settings and they are 6 4 1.
     
  2. Ssyko

    Ssyko
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    Nov 6, 2017
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    When you can sit by the stove jump all the vac &hopper switches and fire it up this will check your board. If it works properly it isn’t the board. By you discription it sounds like a vacumm problem. You may want to look at the thermister it is connected to the bottom of the fire chamber in the back make sure it has good clean connections.
     
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  3. herringbone

    herringbone
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    Feb 7, 2018
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    Thanks for your reply. By thermistor I'm assuming you mean the heat sensor. That was my next step, I didn't have the wrenches with me to check it. It's in another house that is being sold ( pending the stove is fixed) so I'm going back tomorrow. I was wondering about the vacuum myself, I know metal expands when it's warm but I don't know where it could be expanding. Going to check the window sealing when I go back as well. It's probably something simple that I'm overlooking.



    Well, I did as suggested and jumpered out all switches, stove worked fine. I'm leaning towards the firebox vacuum switch or the door seal. Rundown of what I did yesterday. Removed exhaust fan (again) cleaned, installed a new seal, siliconed all joints and replaced the temp sensor. Removed the louver and found the exhaust hose was cracked near the end but it was at the end so shouldn't affect anything but cut it off anyway. Located one spot on the door seal where it was folded back so fixed it. Started up and it ran for 5 minutes then quit again. Lifted the hopper door and tapped the switch and it started feeding again but the quit. Bypassed the switch and it wouldn't start up again. Jumpered the firebox vacuum switch and it started feeding again. Now the stove has 2 vacuum switches, would an exhaust leak cause the firebox switch to quit or does that just affect the exhaust vacuum switch? What would cause the firebox switch to not work work other than a bad switch or a door seal? I have done the dollar bill test and it seemed fine. Any ideas?
     
  4. Ssyko

    Ssyko
    Minister of Fire 2.
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    Nov 6, 2017
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    Loc:
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    Yes the vac switches can go bad, you put the hose back on the correct side (white)? vac switch that is connected to the combustion blower housing tells the stove the vent is clear. What is you exhaust vent configuration?
     
  5. herringbone

    herringbone
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    Feb 7, 2018
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    Loc:
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    The crack in the hose was on the firebox end and I could see through the holes where it went to the switch plus felt it from the back of the stove and there were no indication of being broke or cracked on the other end. Ran out of time as I had to go to work so didn't get the switch removed. Do you mean the exhaust vent? If so, I cleaned the entire exhaust about a week ago including removing the impingement plate and vacuuming behind it (made the mistake of blowing it out once with the exhaust blower off) and again removed the exhaust blower this last time, vacuumed it out (again) and with a new gasket reinstalled the blower. The vent configuration has been the same for 9 years and never had a problem with it. Going to replace the door seal anyway and order a new vacuum switch, after that it can go into the dump or sell it for the metal. Spent over 1000.00 on it last year and this is what I've got.
     

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