troubleshooting breckwell big e

[soiboughtabus]

symptoms: after I hit the power switch, the auger starts feeding like normal. the igniter ignites like normal, I have fire like normal, the blower that blows air over the heat tubes kicks in like normal --- then a couple minutes later, the auger stops, the fire goes out and it flashes on #3 3 times. I put a jumper across the two brown wires, same thing as before. I've cleaned out the burn chamber and burn pot and the chimney is clean and clear.

after doing a little research, I figured I need either a high limit switch or a low limit switch. there lies my question, which one? is there a way to test the voltages out of these sensors? what should they be putting out?

Thanks in advance
Dave

 

[Lake Girl]

Welcome to the forum! May or may not be snap disc ... need to rule out partial blockage in the interior chambers first.... the internal pathways between the firebox and the exhaust venting. Needs to be done after every ton so if you are burning 24/7, approximately once a month.

From the manual, troubleshooting section under 3 flashes:
5. The air inlet, the interior chambers, or exhaust system has a partial blockage.

This means that the vacuum switch is not able to close or stay closed due to blockage so the auger shuts down, low limit switch opens because the temperature drops so the convection blower shuts off.

When was the last time you cleaned internal exhaust pathways? Many folks have a brush (dryer lint or bottle brush) to loosen the fly ash and/or hose attached to shop vac (with drywall bag) to clean out those areas that can be accessed from the firebox. Since you have the cabinet open, remove the vacuum switch tube from the probe on the back wall of the firebox and ensure the probe is not caked with fly ash. Confirm that hose has no cracks/split. As always, unplug when working in the cabinet.

http://www.pelletking.com/Pellet-Stove-Manuals/Breckwell-BigE-Pellet-Stove-Manual.pdf
page 17

jumper across the two brown wires, same thing as before

this means the proof of fire (low limit) is functioning as long as the wiring diagram in the manual is accurate so not that. Do not leave it bypassed as it is a safety feature.

 

[soiboughtabus]

very informative, thank you.

I will have to wait till tomorrow to check the exhaust port. my exhaust piping is a right angle out of the stove and straight up through the roof. that is all clear (no snow or soot).

I did do some more diagnosing, I ran a jumper across the two leads going to the vacuum sensor, same result, and I did the same thing on the two red wires going to another sensor on the left side with the same result.

This is leading me to your theory about the exhaust port. This stove is a pain to move, especially with 120 lbs of fuel in it.

Welcome to the forum! May or may not be snap disc ... need to rule out partial blockage in the interior chambers first.... the internal pathways between the firebox and the exhaust venting. Needs to be done after every ton so if you are burning 24/7, approximately once a month.

From the manual, troubleshooting section under 3 flashes:
5. The air inlet, the interior chambers, or exhaust system has a partial blockage.

This means that the vacuum switch is not able to close or stay closed due to blockage so the auger shuts down, low limit switch opens because the temperature drops so the convection blower shuts off.

When was the last time you cleaned internal exhaust pathways? Many folks have a brush (dryer lint or bottle brush) to loosen the fly ash and/or hose attached to shop vac (with drywall bag) to clean out those areas that can be accessed from the firebox. Since you have the cabinet open, remove the vacuum switch tube from the probe on the back wall of the firebox and ensure the probe is not caked with fly ash. Confirm that hose has no cracks/split. As always, unplug when working in the cabinet.

http://www.pelletking.com/Pellet-Stove-Manuals/Breckwell-BigE-Pellet-Stove-Manual.pdf
page 17




this means the proof of fire (low limit) is functioning as long as the wiring diagram in the manual is accurate so not that. Do not leave it bypassed as it is a safety feature.

 

[Lake Girl]

Interior chambers ... have you opened the little doors at the bottom back wall of the firebox and cleaned in there?

 

[stovelark]

Lots of things listed above and in the manual, suggest trying them all- prob leaning toward the POF disk on the exh blower housing malfunctioning. Maybe a wire connector to it as well, I've seen that in the past too. Is the air damper adjusted properly also? Lastly, I guess the mother board could be malfunctioning but that would be my last suspect.

 

[Snowmobileaddict]

I would get (2) sets of jumper wires. Jump the wires together at the air switch and the high limit snap switch. Those switches need continuity across their contacts for a the stove to run normal.

Next, I would attach or hold an ohm meter's test leads to the contacts on the low limit/proof of fire snap switch. That switch is a close on rise switch. I would watch to make sure that the ohm meter shows continuity across that switch shortly after the fire starts up and exhaust gas temp is rising. Make sure the switch maintains continuity.

Keep in mind that on a lot of pellet stoves, the startup sequence is a fixed time and runs for 8-10 mins total, even if the low limit/proof of fire switch snaps closed before the sequence time is up. So you'll want to sit there monitoring the continuity across that switch for maybe 12-15 mins.

After that, continue to let the stove run and take your ohm meter over to the contacts on the air switch, if the switch shows continuity, and the stove is running, the switch is good.

Lastly, take your ohm meter and check the contacts on the high limit switch. That switch is a break-on-rise. If your meter shows continuity on the high limit switch, your snap switch testing is complete and you have eliminated any problems with those parts.

If you reconnect all the switches to the control board and the stove shuts down still, you'll need to rule out a bad connector or a bad section of wire.
Outside of either of those 2 items, you likely have a problem on your control board.

 

[stovelark]

I like all above but be careful- no measuring resistance with power on, want to measure voltage to see if its present...Resistance normally measured with power off.

 

[saddlepro1]

Ive got a Big E Pellet heater. I have replaced the combustion motor, the high and low heat switches, the controller is bran new--$350!!, replaced the auto start probe, the door gaskets and it still wont work. It either error out as soon as it goes to high fan,, or it will fill the pellet pot over flowing and snuff out any fire . The stack and stove has been taken apart several times and thoroughly cleaned. No obstructions. I just ordered a new auger motor. It was the last thing to buy. With exception to the blower motor, everything is new and the stove will not run. I am a 40 yr experienced electrical service tech. I have had pellet heater for many years. What is wrong with this thing??

 

[johneh]

What is the error code (number)
Year stove was built?
Welcome to the forum

 

[saddlepro1]

Thank you for attempting to solve my problem. The error code is a flashing number 3. Im not sure of the year on my stove . Im gonna guess 8yrs old. I looked for the ID tag. I expect a new auger motor today. The manual calls for a 1RPM motor. There was a 4 RPM motor on the stove. That may solve the pellets loading up in a heap issue. I forgot to add that I also replaced the pressure switch even though it worked.

 

[johneh]

Do you have a manual?
If not

https://woodstoves.net/documents/breckwell/BigE-2-Manual.pdf

 

[zrock]

First question did you just get/install this stove? If it has been running fine prior then i doubt the auger would be the issue. have you cleaned out the passage behind the fire box removing the 2 little doors? Cleaned the exhaust and combustion blowers? Have you cleaned our the fines in the pellet hopper? I find especially this year i have to empty the hopper about once a month and clean out the fines, they get so built up that barely any pellets will feed through.

 

[saddlepro1]

Do you have a manual?
If not

https://woodstoves.net/documents/breckwell/BigE-2-Manual.pdf

Yes I do have a manual. Thank you. I have installed the new auger motor and lit the stove. It burns but not hot enough to kick it in to high fan. Im winning but it is frustrating.

 

[johneh]

What happens if you press the high fan switch?

 

[saddlepro1]

High fan comes on as normal. I had the pressure switch jumped so I took off the jumper when I installed the new 1 RPM auger motor. The stove went to high fan and faulted out on #3 lightflashing. I put the jumper back in and the stove is currently running. I dont have a nice dancing flame but at least I have a flame. Im adjusting my air intake to see if that helps my flame.

 

[stovelark]

Flashing 3 is the POF switch if I remember... Does it work normal if you do not put on high speed fan override? #2 is for vacuum. Good luck with her, I always found Breckwells to be good solid heater, even though I do prefer Enviro... Stay warm all, cold here in SE CT.

 

[saddlepro1]

Thank you for the reply. The proof of flame switch is new. Also it has not gotten warm enough to switch on the high fan speed. The flame is puny and just barely stays lit until the auger motor cycles again. Just to add to my frustration, repairing the door gasket has led to a new door glass. It broke. Im sure from improper tensioning of the door glass brackets. Ugggg!!