I am still in debate on putting the Tarm in my deatached garage and piping it to my forced air system or putting in a Caddy furnace in my basement. The Tarm was installed in my parents house in 1980 it is a MB Solo I beleive but cannot find a model #. They used it for 2 seasons back then and had a chimney fire and never used it again. How much is this thing worth roughly if I was to try and sell it? It was unhooked a few years back when they upgraded the oil boiler to a new unit and is just sitting there waiting for me to lift up out the bilco doors. Any ideas on what I could get for this?
Used Tarm how much $?
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If the firebox is about 16" long, it is an MB30 or MB40
If 25" long, it is an MB55 or 75 - probably an MB55 - that was the most popular model.
The smaller ones are probably worth $1000-1500 in good condition and the larger ones up to $2000.....that means perfect condition, all controls, etc.
If 25" long, it is an MB55 or 75 - probably an MB55 - that was the most popular model.
The smaller ones are probably worth $1000-1500 in good condition and the larger ones up to $2000.....that means perfect condition, all controls, etc.
Thanks fro the reply I will measure the box Sunday when I go over there. This is in perfect condition from the jacket to the controls to the firebox as it was used only 2 seasons. Has an odd flue size though Takes an 8" pipe but is loose the measurement of the flue collar is 7.5" is that correct? My concern whith putting this in the garage is chimney smoke are these really heavy smoke dragons ? I dont wanna piss off the neighbors is 1 reason I am on the fence with using this over the caddy furnace.
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MB55 probably.
You should be able to get a manual for it from Tarm. That is a very capable boiler, the 55 is probably the KW rating, which would be like over 175,000 BTU maximum.
The 8" pipe would go over the flue collar, not within it, so that might solve that problem - along with some furnace cement.
As far as burning clean....well, let me explain it this way. It probably beats most other natural draft water-based (wet leg) boiler out there, but not nearly as good as the new technology. It COULD be burned clean, but only when used relatively heavily......with a good chimney and good wood. If someone was setting this up with a decent storage system, it might perform well....but unless you have a drafty farmhouse it might be too much boiler.
You should be able to get a manual for it from Tarm. That is a very capable boiler, the 55 is probably the KW rating, which would be like over 175,000 BTU maximum.
The 8" pipe would go over the flue collar, not within it, so that might solve that problem - along with some furnace cement.
As far as burning clean....well, let me explain it this way. It probably beats most other natural draft water-based (wet leg) boiler out there, but not nearly as good as the new technology. It COULD be burned clean, but only when used relatively heavily......with a good chimney and good wood. If someone was setting this up with a decent storage system, it might perform well....but unless you have a drafty farmhouse it might be too much boiler.
It overheated my parents 3000 foot home as I recall, My house is 1500ft and the wind blows my hat off inside in January but Yeah thats what I was afraid of it being too big and smoking out the naeighbors from a garage set up. So I guess its for sale.... Thanks Craig for you help.
The Caddy is an excellent choice, if you will be looking at buying a furnace. Being EPA certified, it will create much less creosote than any other furnaces. It also has a glass door, so you can see if it needs more wood, without having to open the door. It has a 6-inch flue, cheaper chimney. It also has a 'limited lifetime Warranty' - which will cover the integrity of the firebox.
If you're opting for the used Tarm, make sure to inspect the firebox so that there is no leak - otherwise you would find smoke in your ducts.
If you're opting for the used Tarm, make sure to inspect the firebox so that there is no leak - otherwise you would find smoke in your ducts.
Was looking at the caddy multi fuel unit as there was a new unit here for $2600. I am hoping to use 1 chimney if possible otherwise I will have to build a new masonry chimney for the wood furnace. the caddy seems to have 2 flues on the oil/wood unit which seems odd especially where the oil side is located on the bottom. The tarm is excellent no leaks etc as I saw it used at my parents once before disconnecting. If I can turn that into money towards a furnace that would be ideal. Thanks
The Caddy has separate fireboxes, one for the oil and one for the wood. The oil flue meets with the wood stove pipe before enternig in the chimney. So only one chimney is required. The Caddy is 82% efficient on the oil and has an EPA tested 72% on the wood side. You will not find anything higher than this on a combination unit.
Would like to get $2000 as I know it is in excellent condition, I also can help load via front end loader
I also have an MB 55 and although most of the documentation is lost I did find the install manual. It speaks about the secondary air inlet on the right hand side.
But I can't figure out where it helps push the air....
Is this a natural draft boiler or a gasification boiler?
ed
But I can't figure out where it helps push the air....
Is this a natural draft boiler or a gasification boiler?
ed
I also have a Solo 55 - the right hand draft control leads down to an inlet that admits air to the base of the back wall/water jacket, which has holes drilled to allow air down into the gas path at the base of the wall. The draft wheel is in the orange cladding and the insulation is cut to allow air flow down at an angle to the inlet. If you slip up the right sheetmetal you can see/clean the inlet.
Also, there should be a stamped plate on the top of the boiler at the front (under the orange jacket) that says when it was made and what model/output it is.
Also, there should be a stamped plate on the top of the boiler at the front (under the orange jacket) that says when it was made and what model/output it is.
Stove Geek said:
Be careful, here in Maine most insurance companies will not insure you if you are running a wood burning device and a oil burning device into the same flue reguardless if they attach and go into the same flue opening together or into seperate openings on the chimney.
Reason - If the operator of the heating system doesnt have common sense and doesnt clean his chimney, then the chimney could become clogged and the oil burner could run and emit exhaust fumes into the house and kill everyone in it.
After the fact and someone gets killed or your house burns down, if they (insurance company) finds that kind of a setu,p your policy will be void. Read the fine print or ask your agent.
Use seperate flues or put in a power vent for the oil side.
~ Phil
I have a Tarm MB-55. I don't have any installation and operating instructions with it. Does anyone have some?
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