USSC 6039 control board replacement

[Michiwood]

Hello all,
First off I'm a newbie to the site, I've been lurking a while and reading what I can find now I'm having issues i can't find information on so I'm looking for help.
I bought my 6039 as a non working unit as the seller claimed. I got it home, set it up and it works, well kind of. I have the 3 button control board. The first couple times I tried to use it i had no room fan, then the 3rd time the room fan come on as soon as I plugged the stove in, so I lit it and it ran great for 24 hours. After that it shut itself off, I turned it back on and it was good, I went to turn it up and as soon as I touched the key pad it shut off again. I slapped the side of the stove and it turned back on, an ran great for 12 more hours. I'm guessing this is why the guy got rid of it. I bought a brand new board, 4 button from USSC, part # 80507, I shut the power off and unplugged the stove. Waited about 8 hours, took it apart, put the new board in. Issue1. When I started it, the draft fan comes on and shuts right off, if I open the door it comes back on, when I shut the door it stops, not sure what that's about. Issue 2 , after trying several times to get it going it gave me an error code 9. I did the manual reset, holding both aux buttons at the same time, it said bye and reset. But still will not turn on the draft fan unless the door is open.
What am I missing? I'm guessing it's something simple, I put the 3 button board back in and it works just fine, but who knows when it will shut itself off an I'm not wanting to wake up to a cold house.
I'm not using any kind of thermostat, the only wires to hook up are the main plug and the bc1 an bc2,(the new board has bc2 an bc3) i tried hooking then up both ways an it made no difference. I do have the draft in the bottom below the fire pot,I donot have a oak kit, house is definitely not air tight, I have 3 inch dbl wall pipe going up 9 feet. I cleaned every nook and cranny on this thing when I brought it home. I replaced the agitator motor and fire brick, it works great until it shuts down. I bought the new board to fix that issue and have more control, just need help with the hook up on it. I do burn hardwood pellets. Any help/ ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!

 

[ARC]

When I started it, the draft fan comes on and shuts right off, if I open the door it comes back on, when I shut the door it stops

Check the pressure switch hose for cracks or plugged with soot. Try jumping the pressure switch, Unplug stove, unplug both wire at the pressure switch and connect them together with a jumper wire or paper clip then try to start stove again.

 

[Michiwood]

Check the pressure switch hose for cracks or plugged with soot. Try jumping the pressure switch, Unplug stove, unplug both wire at the pressure switch and connect them together with a jumper wire or paper clip then try to start stove again.

Hello,
Thanks for the response. I did inspect the hose for cracks, but did not take it off and check for soot, I will do that tomorrow morning when I get back home. I'll also make a jumper wire an try that as well. The only thing that is throwing me off is when I put the 3 button board back in, everything works as it should. I will try your suggestion and report back tomorrow. I greatly appreciate the help!

 

[ARC]

While you are in there inspect the wires going from the pressure switch to the control board. The wire harness is kind of short and it does not take much to pull wires off switch, I have done it when cleaning the room blower.

 

[SidecarFlip]

So have I, many times in fact. I'd say he has a failed silicone vacuum switch hose or a soot plugged nipple. Anymore when cleaning or servicing the room air fan I unplug all the leads from the board and set it aside. pretty hard to mix them up anyway.

 

[Michiwood]

Hello,
Took me a little longer then I expected to get back to it. The hose was definitely full of soot and the hole inside the stove was plugged shut. I cleaned out the hose and the hole and even the nipple on the vacuum switch. Still doing the same thing, the draft fan only comes on with the door open. I made the jumper wire and jumped it right on the board, with no jumper and the draft fan unplugged from the board it comes right on, when I add the jumper it shuts back off. I'm thinking my vacuum may be bad? Just a guess but with the 3 button board it works fine, my thought the 3 button don't really measure the vacuum which is why it's working?
I did inspect all the wires they look fine, everything is hooked up, I have no loose wires that are not attached to something. Thoughts?

 

[SidecarFlip]

Did you remove the combustion fan and clean it as well as the plenum inside? The fan should come on high when the door is open, that means the vacuum switch is sensing no vacuum in the firebox. When you close the door, the draft fan should drop to a lo speed until the fire is established and the interior temp is high enough to close the snap disk (at the top of the firebox) and then the draft fan will assume the speed setting in relation to whatever HR setting you entered on the control board.

You may not heat the fan as it's behind the right panel. I suggest removing the right side panel and actually observing the fan to see if it's rotating.

I'm long past the 2 button board, having upgraded years ago for better control of my feed rate (PPH) as well as the stirrer rotation interval among other user controlled parameters.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Too keep the nipple and hose open, I use my crevice too when I clean mine and suck on the nipple (sounds kinky but it works). Mine gets vacuumed inside weekly, everywhere except the draft fan and I use my crevice too to get into the combustion fan chamber and suck it out as well. I use a large powerful shop vac with a drywall bag inside. My stove stays clean and free from ash weekly. I empty the clean out tee cap on my outside transition Tee weekly as well.

 

[Mt Bob]

Sounds to me like a burned/bad wire connection somewhere.I would check the harness.completely.