VC Resolute Thermostat Issue

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Rggrshots

New Member
Nov 7, 2014
4
Vermont
I have inherited an old VC Resolute I and am ready to begin using it, but the thermostat control doesn't seem to be working. I understand that the coil automatically regulates the air inlet, but I've also read that I should be able to set the level to keep the flapper open or closed. I believe I have all of the replacement parts, but am not sure if I have it all reassembled correctly. What am I missing? Finding a diagram or video of how to reassemble this is impossible!
 

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Is that coil actually attached to the rod? Looks a little off kilter. Got a photo of it from behind the stove looking right at it? One close, one far enough away to see the flap?
 
The coil is attached to the rod. What looks off kilter is the friction spring that is a separate piece. I don't have additional photos handy, but will take them a little later and post.
 
without turning my head sideways, it does not look like the bi metallic coil is parallel to the casting on the stove. A few more photos will help for sure, unless a guru shows up and just flat out answers.
 
Here are some more photos. There is a cast iron cover that goes over the entire thermostat rod and the damper rod as well.
 

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Looks like too much slack in the chain, chain resting on back of stove, may be due to the paperclip thing. If I was going to burn that stove I would buy a new thermostat for it.
 
That actually is a new thermostat. I'm wondering if I don't have the pieces together in the wrong order or if it's something else.
 
I cant blow that up enough to see that paperclip thingie. I do see way too much slack in the chain. What I recall is a spring between the coil and the body of the stove. Thread the rod thru the spring until the spring tightens enough to give "proper" tension. Tight enough not to back out but you don't want to fatigue the chain. Then, have the thermostat handle in the 3 o clock position, attach to the flapper in the closed position.. The move the handle to the 10ish position, see if that opens the flapper to almost perpendicular to the stove. If it does, then you are probably ok to go. The slack I see now will make it so the coil will contract and expand, but not do anything except wiggle the chain around.

Forgive the vagueness as I am digging decades thru the memories.
 
Greetings, first time poster long time reader (well for a few hours at least) I have an older vermont castings resolute, with a similar thermostat on the back. I just had everything cleaned and inspected and started the first fire a couple hours ago. Can someone give me a better explanation of this device and it's operation? To my understanding this damper should close the hotter the stove gets and open as it cools, am i correct so far? stove has been operating for about an hour now, but i haven't noticed any motion in the damper. How can I be sure if it's operating properly?

On a side note, on the bottom left side of the stove near that damper is a small hole (about 1/2" diameter) with a cover over it. Anyone know what that is?
 
Greetings, first time poster long time reader (well for a few hours at least) I have an older vermont castings resolute, with a similar thermostat on the back. I just had everything cleaned and inspected and started the first fire a couple hours ago. Can someone give me a better explanation of this device and it's operation? To my understanding this damper should close the hotter the stove gets and open as it cools, am i correct so far? stove has been operating for about an hour now, but i haven't noticed any motion in the damper. How can I be sure if it's operating properly?

On a side note, on the bottom left side of the stove near that damper is a small hole (about 1/2" diameter) with a cover over it. Anyone know what that is?

Welcome Hiram357 . . . I unfortunately do not know the answer to your question, but the folks here at hearth.com are a pretty welcoming and helpful sort.
 
Welcome Hiram357 . . . I unfortunately do not know the answer to your question, but the folks here at hearth.com are a pretty welcoming and helpful sort.


Yeah Jake, that's what you said on the phone the other day :p

So far after many beers... i mean hours spent monitoring the operation of the stove, the thermostat does appear to be operating, but it doesn't seem to operate as much as one would think. it doesn't start to close until reallllly hot, or start to open until realllly cold. maybe just needs a new coil? or do they usually respond this slow? I found the operation of the stove much better when I would give the lever a little bump in the right direction. still can't figure out what that little hole is on the side.
 
and another side note, not sure where to post this, been reading through trying to find a similar thread to no avail, so I shall ask here and, see where it goes....

I replaced the gaskets on the stove a couple days ago, been burning with no issues so far, house is still standing, smoke detectors duct taped back together and the co2 detector still says I have a good chance of living.... but I notice every now and then when I close the door, and also on the top load door, I can see little glimmers of lights. Are those supposed to be shut tight? I wonder because this is an older stove circa 1980, the top load door doesn't have a latch it just sits closed. the front door looks to be adjustable, but with as much play in the door would it make a difference?
 
Something is amuck. The air control lever is about 120 degrees off position. I think it is supposed to be visible above the stove top. And where is the bimetalic, thermostat coil?
 
and another side note, not sure where to post this, been reading through trying to find a similar thread to no avail, so I shall ask here and, see where it goes....

I replaced the gaskets on the stove a couple days ago, been burning with no issues so far, house is still standing, smoke detectors duct taped back together and the co2 detector still says I have a good chance of living.... but I notice every now and then when I close the door, and also on the top load door, I can see little glimmers of lights. Are those supposed to be shut tight? I wonder because this is an older stove circa 1980, the top load door doesn't have a latch it just sits closed. the front door looks to be adjustable, but with as much play in the door would it make a difference?

I think it may time to post some pics here . . . pics of your settings and pics of the stove with the light coming through.

By the way . . . some of you might remember Hiram . . . I dragged him along with me to the Woodstock Open House a few years back . . . in his pre-woodstove days. The free beer is what won him over. I think there is even a pic or two posted somewhere of him at that event.
 
I think it may time to post some pics here . . . pics of your settings and pics of the stove with the light coming through.

By the way . . . some of you might remember Hiram . . . I dragged him along with me to the Woodstock Open House a few years back . . . in his pre-woodstove days. The free beer is what won him over. I think there is even a pic or two posted somewhere of him at that event.

It was a little difficult to get a pic of the stove with the light, so it's kinda dark but you can see where the light comes through. Is that normal? It doesn't look like either door can get any tighter.

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Looks like the gasket is not sealing well there. Does the area pass or fail the dollar bill test?
 
Well, I tried the dollar bill and got back $.50, maybe should try when it's not running.... J/K I work on a lot of commercial ovens and am familiar with the test. along the top and bottom of the front door are good and tight, the sides are not as tight but still closing. The top lid fail on the sides, but I've found that a few more people have had issues with the top lid. Which raises my question of the old kitchen stoves with removable tops for cooking, those don't have gaskets and just lay in the stovetop, so is the top door seal as much an issue? And of course I can't find the thread about the other guy that had top lid issues, he thought it was warped....

So far though it all seems to work fine with no issue of smoke spewing out or funny odors, still not sure about the thermostat, I have to give it a bump in the right direction every now and then....
 
Old stoves are not the tight controlled combustion chamber that modern stoves are. The firebox in an EPA stove is a well engineered environment optimized for clean burning. I found this out when I got the lid askew on our F3CB. It burned terribly until I found and corrected the problem.

Air leaks on old stoves can be an issue too. They can affect burning control and creosote buildup.
 
And does anyone know what this hole is on the side of my stove? (1980 vc resolute)
 

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That is the secondary air intake.
 
Should it be open all the time? Just during startup? Any idea where I can learn more about the stove? I've spent about a day and a half scouring the net for information, all the stuff I can find is about the new resolutes. BTW thanks for all the input, i'm finding these forums to be very helpful, I'm almost confident that I won't burn my house down now :D
 
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