Whelp, thanks to the helpful folks on this site, I was able to identify that I have a multi-fuel Vigilant from Vermont Castings. I was wondering why it was burning wood like crazy. Apparently, it's set up for burning coal. Well, thinks I, let me buy some coal and see if that works. I was actually excited to see what burning coal was like. First coal fire last night....well, that sucked. I got the coal lit with a good bed of wood coals, got it burning, but the coal went out a few hours later. Now I have to dig ten pounds of coal out of the stove by hand. I did some searching, and apparently coal doesn't like the 8" stove pipe I have, as the draft isn't strong enough to draw enough O2 to keep it lit. So, do I try to get a wood conversion kit, try to put a 6" reducer on my exhaust pipe for the coal, or get rid of this anchor?
Vigilant Multi-Fuel Anchor
- Thread starter Iburnslow
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What is the manufacture date of this stove? I seem to recall that you don't need any special parts to burn wood in these stoves made in the 80s but there may have been differences in design over the years. You would just remove the coal grates and keep a layer of ash at the bottom of the stove. Do you have the manual?
Also, if it's burning through wood that fast then it sounds like you may have an air leak somewhere.
Also, if it's burning through wood that fast then it sounds like you may have an air leak somewhere.
Here's a thread on the subject
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Vigilant, Coal to Wood ?'s
Hi Everyone, I recently moved and the is an older, 70's-80's i think, Vigilant in our finished basement. The previous owner burned coal and swore by it, but we have no interest and would love to just burn wood. I know there was a conversion kit which I'm guessing is no longer available and...
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jetsam
Minister of Fire
Multifuel stoves are usually significantly worse at burning their fuel types than a dedicated stove would be. Automatic trip to the scrap yard in my book.
Even of it was a wood stove, at that age it probably wouldn't have secondary combustion (which is, again, an automatic trip to the scrap yard for me).
Pick the fuel you want and buy a well-reviewed stove that is made to burn it.
Even of it was a wood stove, at that age it probably wouldn't have secondary combustion (which is, again, an automatic trip to the scrap yard for me).
Pick the fuel you want and buy a well-reviewed stove that is made to burn it.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
This stove was cutting edge technology when it came out. Downdraft with secondary combustion. I imagine trying to burn coal in it is difficult in downdraft mode with a giant flue. This stove should really have a 6" insulated flue regardless. There are only one or two stoves that call for an 8" flue these days. Something to consider if you are looking at replacing this stove, which I would.
Out of curiosity, are you keeping the draft control open as the stove heats up? Sorry, kind of a dumb quedtion but it has happened that people are unaware that the bi- metal coil on the draft control lever will automatically try to close the " flapper" , so if you had a well established fire that died inexplicably there could be a correlation!?
Yes, I make sure the flapper is all the way open. I'll check it periodically to manually keep it open as well. Thanks for the interest though! Keep the input coming!
Just don't remove all the ash. A 1-2" layer of ash on the bottom would be enough
Ok maybe this is a different stove, but if my memory serves me we burned in our old vigilant without any grates whatsoever. It's been a while though so maybe I'm wrong.
Not that you can't burn wood on the coal grates, they just take up room and allow more air to get in under the fire.
Not that you can't burn wood on the coal grates, they just take up room and allow more air to get in under the fire.
Well yes technically you could do it but it isn't safe. The fact is this is not a good woodstove it is a decent coal stove once you figure out how to burn coal. And replace the missing parts of the grate
Honestly, it's been so long I don't remember much of the details. We did the conversion once, and my dad was running the show. Something about an air tube needing to be removed.. or put back, maybe? Sorry I know that's not much help
Rich W.
New Member
I’m late to the party, as I just registered. I have a VC 1400 (multifuel Vigilant) and burn coal very successfully. Let me know if I can help. It’s a beast once you get the hang of it.
Hi Rich! Sorry I missed your response...I've had a difficult time keeping coal burning in it, I'm thinking because of the 8 inch flu not creating enough draft. Any wisdom you can share would be greatly appreciated...Thank you!
Hey Rich, if you receive this message I'd be interested in any direction you can provide to help me learn how to burn coal effectively in this stove. I did change the flue to a 6" flue, which has improved the draft control for burning wood. But, I'd love to burn coal in my stove if I can. Greatly appreciate any input you can provide. Thanks!! -Chris
Have you been able to successfully carry a coal fire??
We need to make sure the fundamentals are being followed.
Are you aware it won't work well above 45*f with most chimneys? Some are ok if the fire is well established, but starting needs stronger draft with colder outside temps.
Chestnut size Anthracite Coal, and what brand have you tried? Not all coal is equal.
Pics of what you consider an established coal fire would be needed; Blue flame on top, red glowing mass looking up through grate without dark dead spots?
There are a lot of tricks, and not difficult to learn the best procedure for each stove. You should be able to convert from starting a wood fire with small kindling to coal within 15 minutes. That is from match to established coal burning, but not filled on top. It is strange, like putting rocks on top of a fire to totally cover it, so you won't see any fire, and heat output drops drastically until fully established when entire coal bed is glowing. A shake 8 hours later and it will continue to glow, and glow with content heat output. No reason any coal stove can't be lit with one match in fall (in NEPA usually November) and burn until left to go out in spring.
I've had a few coal stoves, along with a second chimney for wood, so we can burn either. My father in law had a coal Vigilant, worked good on a 8 inch chimney. I now have a Vigilant with coal conversion kit in the shop for reconditioning and resale. I only cure paint outside with a couple 6 inch connector pipe sections with wood.
Hi Coaly,
Thank you for the response! I have not been able to successfully carry a coal fire, it appears to go out, and I have gray ashy coals that don't appear to have burned. I've only attempted to start a coal fire when it's been cold out, below 45 degrees F. I originally was told the 8 inch flue was probably too big, not creating enough draft to keep the coal fire burning, so I did convert to a 6 inch flue and lined chimney in the Fall. My draft control greatly improved for burning wood. I tried coal a few times, but not successfully so I gave up.
My local dealer has Blaschak anthracite from PA. I usually get the large chunks so it doesn't slip through the grates. I have tried to add the coal to the fire after I start a good wood fire and have a good bed of red hot coals. I've watched numerous videos online, and have tried to get the ideal blue flame, which I've done once, but could not keep the fire going. It went out. I'd love to master this.
I'm wondering if I might have air leaks in the stove causing the issue? I've put new gaskets on my stove within the last year. But, maybe elsewhere I'm letting too much air into the stove? I'm going to inspect this and chalk as needed, but haven't gotten to this yet. Again, thanks for your time and response. Any info is good info!
-Chris
I have a later Vigilant II stove which is designed for coal but I also burn wood in it too. Here in PA I am able to get Anthracite so the stove has baffles in the bottom next to the ash pan called restrictor plates. With Anthracite they need to be removed, if not the coal will not get enough air. With Bituminous they are installed. Now with the plates removed it provides plenty of air for wood and I find keeping the the air intake baffle nearly closed and the air control on the side of the stove open there is still plenty of air. Running the air intake baffle wide open causes the fire to burn too hot and fast sending all the heat up the chimney. Attaching the Vigilant II manual hope it is similar to the Vigilant. Manual also has some tips of starting and keeping the fire going.
When a wood fire burns down to coals, the chimney is cooling and not drafting at its strongest. The least amount of wood that has burned down the better.
Start with paper, cardboard, and small kindling on grate. Sprinkle a little coal on it. Kindling should be small splits that will burn freely with little smoke. You want ripping flames to go up through the coal. Light it, and if not burning hard, crack ash pan door. Add a little more coal on top to keep flames going up through it like a torch. The edges of coal will start to glow, and by the time flames die down, coal should be started. Keep adding coal with a sprinkle from shovel across top. Lots of air until coal mass is glowing, with blue flames. It takes lots more air than wood to get it going. A wood coal bed will not allow enough air up through it. You want the coal down on the grate for good airflow up through it.
The larger the pieces, the more air between them, and the faster it will burn. All sizes has the same BTU content per pound. Smaller pieces get less air, burning slower for warmer days. That is when you load with fines around the bottom of bin. Chestnut should not fall through.
Old Company Lehigh was the best. I believe that breaker was closed long ago. Reading is my go to now. Tried Blaschak, had more unburned pieces, more ash, and tore up my stainless cap every year. That was burning in a Hitzer, EZ Flow with hopper. Results vary with stove designs.
After the initial heat in chimney from wood comes down, stack temperature will be about half that of wood. You may think the stove has stalled for a few hours as the entire fuel load ignites over time. Coal is very slow to respond, unlike wood.
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