Vogelzang vg5790 e2 error code

[Terry1980]

My stove shuts down and Have an e2 error code appear on display panel , cleaned stove and everything . And also checked for clogged hose possibly... all good . try to start up again and it shuts down within 20 seconds . I read on here a person had similar problems with the same stove model. He was told to bypass pressure switch and tried doing with a paper clip ,the stove starts up and burns but with e4 error code. Turned stove off , is it a bad pressure switch ? Also ...should both blowers start up when initially starting the stove ? My exhaust blower runs at first start right now. This stove is only about 30 days old and bought brand new

 

[Ssyko]

no only the exhaust blower will start when you turn it on. the room blower will start when the stove gets up to 112 - 120.
Now in the 3 months you have owned it what did you clean when you "cleaned stove and everything"? how many bags of pellets have you used in the last 3 months?

 

[Terry1980]

I vacuumed the inside of stove , cleaned and cleared all holes in burn pot. Inspected hose on pressure switch and where it attaches to stove ,no clogs in hose or where it attaches to stove , used a wire to clear . Cleaned both sides of chamber where small cover plates are . Cleaned sensor on exhaust blower. Also cleaned out exhaust stove pipe. I've used about 40 bags approximately .

 

[Ssyko]

Well thats almost a ton so the stove needed it. The exhaust blower motor is the component that creates the vacuum for the vac switch to close. How did the fan blades look when that was out? Does the stove start a fire or time out before it can start, maybe some smoking? How do the holes in the burn pot look?

 

[Terry1980]

Well thats almost a ton so the stove needed it. The exhaust blower motor is the component that creates the vacuum for the vac switch to close. How did the fan blades look when that was out? Does the stove start a fire or time out before it can start, maybe some smoking? How do the holes in the burn pot look?

The fan blades were not too dirty , maybe a heaping teaspoon of soot. Wire brushed the blades and sprayed with graphite dry lube plus cleaned out fan housing . The stove will start up and shut down with no flame within a minute. All holes in burn pot are clear . Makes me wonder why the stove starts up and has fire when I bypass the pressure switch with a paper clip connecting the leads , it brings up an e4 code when I did that. Could it be the pressure switch ?

 

[tlc1976]

Vogelzang VG-5790

I'd have to know what the auger voltage was and hook up an external supply to push it. Neither of which do I have, though I could probably borrow a supply from work. @IHATEPROPANE: What would you recommend for sealing the gap?

www.hearth.com

I would do this board test. Step 10 uses the vac switch to identify when you open and close the door so you’ll know if that’s working. Step 12 will check the igniter and the high temperature cutoff switch. My high temperature cutoff switch was bad from the factory, I replaced it with a White Rodgers 3L02-200.

 

[Terry1980]

Vogelzang VG-5790

I'd have to know what the auger voltage was and hook up an external supply to push it. Neither of which do I have, though I could probably borrow a supply from work. @IHATEPROPANE: What would you recommend for sealing the gap?

www.hearth.com

I would do this board test. Step 10 uses the vac switch to identify when you open and close the door so you’ll know if that’s working. Step 12 will check the igniter and the high temperature cutoff switch. My high temperature cutoff switch was bad from the factory, I replaced it with a White Rodgers 3L02-200.

I preformed the test and on step 10 the blower motor ran
On step 12 the igniter did not lite . But when I started the stove up the igniter got hot and pellets smoked . Then the stove shut down to e2 again

 

[tlc1976]

I preformed the test and on step 10 the blower motor ran
On step 12 the igniter did not lite . But when I started the stove up the igniter got hot and pellets smoked . Then the stove shut down to e2 again

On step 10 did you open and close the door? And did the blower change speed with the door open? The vac switch detects if the door is open, and the blower speed changes to indicate the vac switch is working.

 

[Terry1980]

On step 10 did you open and close the door? And did the blower change speed with the door open? The vac switch detects if the door is open, and the blower speed changes to indicate the vac switch is working.

When I did step10 the exhaust motor seemed to stay at the same speed with the door open . no changes in speed.
On step 12 igniter ....the igniter did not get hot .
On step 11 the RF code did not appear either

 

[tlc1976]

When I did step10 the exhaust motor seemed to stay at the same speed with the door open . no changes in speed.
On step 12 igniter ....the igniter did not get hot .
On step 11 the RF code did not appear either

Ok it was time to clean mine so I ran the board test as a refresher.

Step 10 if the switch detects it’s holding a vacuum, the blower will barely start then stop. And keep repeating. As soon as you crack the door open and break vacuum, it will run steady. Close the door and it’s back to pulsing.

Step 11 no RF means the low limit switch is fine, at least for shutting off.

Step 12 the display should show a crude looking “IG”. It takes a couple minutes for the igniter to actually get hot. But if the hi limit is tripped, the display will be blank and the igniter won’t heat up. Your stove lights so that part is fine.

We know something is up with the stove vacuum. You cleaned the exhaust path. I would check and make sure nothing got in the air intake pipe. Small critters, toys, dust balls, etc. Do you have an outside air kit? If so, check that too for obstruction. If you don’t have an outside air kit, see if it runs better when you crack a window. If it runs better, you need one. If all this is good, then the vac switch is probably bad. You can bypass the switch for now to test, but the stove needs actual vacuum to burn right.

Something I’ve had happen before is if it takes a very long time to ignite, the startup mode will time out before it’s hot enough for the low limit to detect that the stove actually lit. Giving the E4 ignite failure. It could be poor pellets, a weak igniter, a weak low limit, or a coated low limit. Oops re reading this I see you cleaned that.

The room blower should not start until the fire is going for a bit. The room blower starts immediately? Not sure if the room blower will start immediately if the low limit is faulty, but you could disconnect the low limit to at least see if that stops immediate starting of the room blower. But the switch would have to be connected to detect that the flame is going. It could be just all out bad.

 

[Terry1980]

Ok it was time to clean mine so I ran the board test as a refresher.

Step 10 if the switch detects it’s holding a vacuum, the blower will barely start then stop. And keep repeating. As soon as you crack the door open and break vacuum, it will run steady. Close the door and it’s back to pulsing.

Step 11 no RF means the low limit switch is fine, at least for shutting off.

Step 12 the display should show a crude looking “IG”. It takes a couple minutes for the igniter to actually get hot. But if the hi limit is tripped, the display will be blank and the igniter won’t heat up. Your stove lights so that part is fine.

We know something is up with the stove vacuum. You cleaned the exhaust path. I would check and make sure nothing got in the air intake pipe. Small critters, toys, dust balls, etc. Do you have an outside air kit? If so, check that too for obstruction. If you don’t have an outside air kit, see if it runs better when you crack a window. If it runs better, you need one. If all this is good, then the vac switch is probably bad. You can bypass the switch for now to test, but the stove needs actual vacuum to burn right.

Something I’ve had happen before is if it takes a very long time to ignite, the startup mode will time out before it’s hot enough for the low limit to detect that the stove actually lit. Giving the E4 ignite failure. It could be poor pellets, a weak igniter, a weak low limit, or a coated low limit. Oops re reading this I see you cleaned that.

The room blower should not start until the fire is going for a bit. The room blower starts immediately? Not sure if the room blower will start immediately if the low limit is faulty, but you could disconnect the low limit to at least see if that stops immediate starting of the room blower. But the switch would have to be connected to detect that the flame is going. It could be just all out bad.

I went over everything you just mentioned . I decided to do another cleaning , low and behold I found the problem it was the steel vacuum tube it was clogged bigtime , I thought I had cleaned thoroughly, ash at the very end of it was hard as a rock used a pointed awl to break through and the stove is working properly . Thanks for all your help !

 

[tlc1976]

I went over everything you just mentioned . I decided to do another cleaning , low and behold I found the problem it was the steel vacuum tube it was clogged bigtime , I thought I had cleaned thoroughly, ash at the very end of it was hard as a rock used a pointed awl to break through and the stove is working properly . Thanks for all your help !

Great to hear it was a simple free fix. And you’ve learned a lot for potential issues in the future. Yes that little fitting, I lightly touch my ash vac to it every time I clean the firebox as a measure to keep it clear. 5 years later and my vac switch still works and that fitting has never clogged.

 

[Terry1980]

Great to hear it was a simple free fix. And you’ve learned a lot for potential issues in the future. Yes that little fitting, I lightly touch my ash vac to it every time I clean the firebox as a measure to keep it clear. 5 years later and my vac switch still works and that fitting has never clogged.

Yes...! I definitely know my stove now inside and out . Now I know to always keep that steel tube clear , its amazing that something as simple as that tube being clogged can shut the whole works down. Thanks again for your time you were a great help