wall thimble, in Pennsylvania, for the win

[tiber]

Just about figured out how I'm going to DIY the chimney using actual parts. And, as usual, every time I put something on paper I think "Gee, maybe I better ask the hearth.com guys"....

Also I found attractive stovepipe which I think I can use to sell my wife on the project. However with the nor'easter ripping through here it's been 39F in Willow Grove and my wife reports it's actually icing at my house in the 'burbs of Norristown. So it's a good time to look at stove porn, errr the pictures section and ask questions.

The layout of my house has an attached garage. The garage has fireproof drywall, etc. I understand I need to use this dura-vent to make the exterior chimney. However, my current idea is to use (broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5MM-SP-10-24) to sell my wife on having the stove in the living room (ooooh, pretty) and then a thimble to get through the wall. The livingroom has the garage on the other side of the wall. After reading through the archives there's two things which immediately come to mind: It'll require two 90 degree bends and I'm not sure if I have to use class A pipe after the thimble or if I can use stovepipe. Maybe only one 90 bend if the pipe goes straight from the back of the stove to the garage but I understand this hurts the amount of heat being radiated from the pipe. That being said if I can use stovepipe from the thimble to the living room to the thimble out the garage roof, there's some real potential to kill several birds with one stone starting with keeping my workshop warm in winter versus the current solution of freezing to death. (If I'm dead I can't complain about the temperature in the workshop, the logic goes).

The 2 car garage is vented (it hosts one project car, and my workshop) and marginally insulated so I'm not worried about gasoline fumes, etc. What I do need to know is if it's OK to use black stovepipe in the garage (thus heating my workshop AND the house) or if I have to use class A pipe.

Just a follow up on previous posts, I did the math on heating the house from the basement by adding insulation and it wasn't worth it. The cost of the chimney material alone hurt the wallet, but then the cost of insulating the walls properly and cutting up the floor for venting tore it. Aside of the fact it would effectively add 33% to the amount of space that needed to be heated.

 

[Danno77]

just to clarify....That pretty stuff you posted a picture to (I showed that to my wife a while back) is not stove pipe, it is merely a sham that you put on your stove pipe. In other words that is cost on top of cost of stove pipe.

So, get the stovepipe first with the promise to your wife that you'll add the pretty stuff later.

 

[tiber]

So, get the stovepipe first with the promise to your wife that you'll add the pretty stuff later.

But that's tantamount to lying!

...

Good idea!

 

[BrowningBAR]

So, get the stovepipe first with the promise to your wife that you'll add the pretty stuff later.

But that's tantamount to lying!

...

Good idea!

It's not lying if you believe it. Believe the lie, Timber, believe the lie.

 

[madison]

Tibor,

You need class A to pass thru the thimble, and once you transition to class A, it must stay class A.

So in the garage, you could use a Cleanout T to make the 90 turn, Class A to/thru, the ceiling of the garage, ceiling thimble to transition the garage ceiling, more class A to roof, roof kit, more class a to chimney cap.

Galvanized can be used and painted with appropriate paint indoors, stainless for longevity outdoors.

Try this for tips: http://www.duravent.com/?page=1a1.php

And link in my signature down below for pretty much what you are thinking, except ours goes into a sunroom and up vs your garage.

 

[TreePapa]

Run this plan past your local building dept., or a licensed General Contractor or Architect (i.e., someone very familiar w/ your local bldg. codes) before you proceed. Also your homeowner's ins. co.

I rather doubt that either one will approve venting a solid-fueled applicance (i.e., stove) through your garage. At the very least, you'll prolly need to build a chase.

Good luck.

Peace,
- Sequoia

 

[tiber]

And link in my signature down below for pretty much what you are thinking, except ours goes into a sunroom and up vs your garage.

Excellent, thanks. How much does this heat up the sunroom if at all?

 

[madison]

Very little to none, if you are referring to the class a chimney pipe as a heat source. you can put your hand on it while the stove is cranking, it is warm to very warm to the touch, but not hot, so it will not heat your garage if that is what you are thinking. It can be two inches to the side wall, so you know it is not too hot.

If you look at the pics, the room the stove is in is open to the sunroom, so those rooms are easily heated by the T6.

If you call or talk to your building inspector, he will clue you in to what he will allow. you may or may not have to enclose the class a in your garage (or may or may not be able to pass the class a to the garage). that will be local specific and i would go straight to the inspector for the final ruling prior to contemplating any purchases. It will save you a lot of time, installers will give conflicting advice which may or may not pertain to your town's code.

I had about a 50:50 agreement between various stove shops and installers and hearth.com members regarding having to enclose the class a in a chase. Our inspector said, that if the class a is in a living area, and could be bumped up against, then it needed to be enclosed (ie passes thru the floor into another room, closet, bedroom, etc) . Where our's enters the sun room is about 7 feet off the floor as the sun room is a step down from the stove room, so he said it does not need to be chased in.

The room and class a pipe are being painted, today, so i will repost some pictures later in the link below.

hope this helps,