I am going to replace the bearings in both my convection and combustion blowers. Which would be the better bearing, oil filled or grease. Both are shielded stainless. Thanks.
Thanks for the tip. I've been looking in Grainger but figured I would ask on here. I've been lurking for years.This is what you want. Heat up the old bearings with a mini torch and press off shaft install new bearings with red locktight its not difficult just make sure it goes together the same way you took it apart.
John
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-10-608-...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item20cce02cf2
There are different ones, pressed cages, stainless steel, oil, grease, diff. abec ratings etc. Since I have some old motors I thought I would try new bearings instead of whole new units. Especially since this one stove likes to eat one a year.Didn't know different ones were available. Last time I went to a motor repair shop and they said these ones will work. I think they have been running for three years now.
You want bearings with viton seals for the heat protection. Those ebay bearings, 10 for $8.80, have China written all over them. I'd look for a good bearing.
And those MOOG steering parts for that German rocketship of yours are also made in CHINA! I couldn't believe it when I picked up the MOOG boxes.The China thing, the first set of bearings I got from McMaster-carr were FAG I believe were German they did not last the season so I cheeped out and bought from the guy on eBay and they have lasted at least three seasons. I do agree I would rather by American but I'm not sure there any better. By the way my race car has Chinese connecting rods and American bolts that stay together over 9300 rpm so they must be doing something right.
John
The originals are a sealed bearing also, but where there is a will there is a way.Those are sealed bearings so you won't need to repack them. Of course, being a racer, you know that but for the info of others looking to replace bearings I thought I would mention it.
The China thing, the first set of bearings I got from McMaster-carr were FAG I believe were German they did not last the season so I cheeped out and bought from the guy on eBay and they have lasted at least three seasons. I do agree I would rather by American but I'm not sure there any better. By the way my race car has Chinese connecting rods and American bolts that stay together over 9300 rpm so they must be doing something right.
I've ordered the ebay bearings. For the price even if they are junk they will be better than the originals that have been repacked several times. Chinese parts don't scare me, as most steel engine parts come from there now. My sig picture was taken at Winterport dragway, lots of Chinese steel being used there.
You forgot STRESS RELIEVING and CRYO TREATING, which is a really great way of improving life and toughness.I suppose bearings in stove motors don't see near the RPM that they would in other applications but I still wouldn't use them. The No.1 reason most bearings fail prematurely is handling and improper installation. Made in China is the 2nd. I prefer NSK, SFK, Koyo, Nachi, Timkin and FAG. Not in that order.
China connecting rods will hold up but not before straightening, adding ARP bolts, resizing and balancing. What engine do you spin to 9300?
View attachment 147881 It's an M10 2 valve 2 liter engine the rods are Carrillo knock offs with ARP L19 bolts. It will actually revs higher but its our of its power band.
John
Move to methanol. Great stuff, $3 per gallon the last two years. Running 14/5-1 compression in an 82 s-10 drag truck.yea its only a 4 banger, I wish it ran on wood pellets for around 5 bucks a bag instead of $15 bucks a gallon for c16.
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