Whitfield Advantage Plus Insert Service Manual

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

GeoBoyOSu

New Member
Nov 24, 2020
4
Oregon
Howdy! Long time lurker, first time poster. (if you don't want to read the novel, I'm hoping someone can share a service manual for the Whitfield Advantage Plus (insert) with me).

Our house that we purchased about 6 years ago had a Whitfield Advantage Plus insert. It's missing the model/serial sticker on the hopper lid, but from the one-piece glass, rectangular pellet chute, and shape of the heat exchanger openings, it's got to be the AP.

So far, I've replaced the combustion blower, the burn grate, and about 5 igniters (ick!). The timer block for the igniter pooped out, but I did some simple wiring, and replaced it with a 600w bathroom fan timer switch, which is working perfectly. Crazy how much they want for a simple timer block!

I'm ashamed to admit that just today, after 6 years, I finally figured out where the ash trap covers are on the stove. EVERY single cleaning how-to that I've found is for the models with the panels behind the fire brick. The Advantage Plus insert has these tiny little round plugs in the ash tray compartment instead. One side was completely filled up.

Had to MacGyver up a flexible tubing setup for my shop vac, so I could snake it up into the opening, and clean a lot of compacted/stuck ash out. Seems to be quite the labyrinth back there? Don't know how they expect you to clean it out?....actually seems to run all the way behind the ash tray slot, and connect to the other side?

Stove seems much happier now! It does randomly shut itself off from time to time, which is super annoying. Guessing it might be one of the safety switches, though I figured those were either working/not working? The back brick is very worn, right above the pellet shut (about 1/2 the thickness is gone), and is cracked all the way through. Wonder if the back of the stove is getting too hot?

Long story short, hoping someone has a service manual for the Advantage Plus insert that they can share with me? Thanks in advance!

Guessing it's very much worth it to replace parts and fix this Whitfield, rather than dropping $3-4K on a new Harman P35i (LOVE the rail system). Working on the insert is a giant PITA. Need to get a quick connect for the exhaust vent, so I can easily detach, and pull out, to work on it.

-Hank
 
Here is a thread from Stovenson he linked a manual in his post Here
 
Here is a thread from Stovenson he linked a manual in his post Here
Ssyko,

Thanks, but have that manual. Always though it was odd that there's no mention of the ash trap plugs in it. Hoping to find a technical/service manual, if there is such a thing?
 
Would you mind sharing the specifics of the switch you used & the complexity of requiring it? I’m having a problem with the igniter not shutting off at all on my advantage plus insert (C.1998). I agree that those little plugs for ash removal are a problem AND a terrible omission from the owners manual. I’m a frugal by necessity DIYer and I think I need a new block. Hoping to try your fix instead, for the same reasons.
thanks!
 
The timer blocks are insanely expensive. Really don't understand why?

I had a bathroom fan timer switch left over from our remodel. It's got timers for 1, 5, 10, 20, 30, 60 minutes. This one handles 600w (the Adv Plus igniter is 400W). I've found that a 5 minute timer (the igniter block on the stove runs for 15 mins) has been enough to ignite 99% of the time. I feel like this timer was a bit over $20?

  1. I unhooked the igniter spades from the timing block.
  2. Wired up a 2 prong plug to the timer switch
    • Hot(black) to hot (I used an insulated spade connection for easy of removal, if needed)
    • Neutral(white) pigtailed to white on switch.
    • Male spade on the white pigtail
  3. Crimped a male spade on red (switched) wire on plug
  4. Switched wire (red) connects to one end of the igniter wire
  5. Neutral (white) spade connects to other end of the igniter wire
  6. I left the inline fuse in place on the igniter wire
    • Note - it does not matter which wire is which for the igniter
I pulled the wires to the outside of the electrical box...can't remember why, but really should put them in, and put a faceplate on it, so it looks better! I've also thought about mounting it on the side of our hearth, and making it pretty, but....it works.

So long as you can strip wires, crimp connectors, and can follow directions for wiring a single pole switch... not much to it.

My startup procedure is now:
  1. Press start button on control panel
  2. Start auger
  3. Press 5min timer on switch
Let me know if you need more clarification.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20201219_213708796.jpg
    PXL_20201219_213708796.jpg
    254.6 KB · Views: 123
  • Like
Reactions: pdxpj and Ssyko