Whitfield Prodigy II Booster Relay

[doryman1]

Does anyone out there have information about the Booster motor relay or access to a replacement part. My relay is not supplying power to the Booster motor on start up, Hall blower working fine. I’m guessing that an internal coil in the relay is not functioning. My relay has five terminals and is an SSAC, their part #Y2918. The wiring diagram located on the relay corresponds to the upper schematic in the service manual on page 34 indicating it is a slaved exhaust fan (not always 120v ac). Thanks for any info! barry

 

[Snowy Rivers]

These components are difficult at best to find.

The control boards are available for a PRICE.

The relay is solid state and does not make any noise.

Sadly the same issues that plagued them in their hay day, are still there.


I rewired my Prodigy using timers from precision timer company.

There is a schematic here on the forum that shows how to do it.

You can wire the booster fan up directly to 120VAC through a master on off switch, then power the timers to run the cycle on the auger.

Be sure to keep all the safety snap switches in place as well as the pressure switch.

Wire in the door switch to disable the main fan when the door is opened.

The hall effect assembly can be disconnected and the fan run with a triac fan speed controller.
This is done separately and you can then find the sweet spot for each feed setting.

The Prodigy was always a fussy little tike with the original controls.

These stoves were not highly regarded even when they were new, and the electronics have become increasingly hard to get

Mine took a dump, and I just rewired it and it works far better, and with better control than it ever did with the factory parts.

The relay is not listed anywhere that I have found.

This is not to say that you can't find something that will work, but the entire original system is basically a dinosaur.

You can rewire this little critter and make it a lot simpler and far better.

The booster fan can run at full line voltage and be happy as a clam.

The hall effect control on the main fan is obsolete as well and if the fan goes away, you will need to buy the plain standard replacement fan and go that way.

No biggy, the hall effect sensor sells the board what speed the fan is running and keeps it there based on the fuel feed setting.

The entire concept was to make the stove "Idiot proof" you simply set the feed setting and the heat setting and the fan were taken care of totally.

My goal was to fix my stove and use off the shelf parts that were currently available.

Good luck

 

[smwilliamson]

Check out this link. Maybe useful.

http://www.aberdeenhomerepair.com/store/product/1748/B1370751-combustion-motor-relay-L39-274

You can do about anything with this relay, though you may have to pigtail off the board

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049721

 

[imacman]

Try Wood heat Stoves....even though they don't list it in the link, they sometimes have parts that aren't listed, or know where to get them:

http://woodheatstoves.com/whitfield-pellet-stove-parts-prodigy-i-and-ii-wp3-c-292_90_99_95_262.html

 

[doryman1]

Thanks to all for the leads on parts, work a rounds. Snowy Rivers can you post a link to the rewire schematic. I am considering my own solution for the no booster on start up situation by placing an ac switch in parallel with the low limit disk, turning it on at start up and off after stove warms up to ensure proper shut down. All input has been helpful, thanks everyone!

 

[Snowy Rivers]

Here is the original thread on the rewire..

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/80023/

 

[doryman1]

Thanks for the thread Snowy. What do you think about my switch idea or perhaps a one time 10 minute timer for initial start up on the booster motor? Thanks

 

[Snowy Rivers]

My personal opinion is to wire the exhaust fan in to run 100% when the master is flipped on.
This assures you that if you open the door to clear a clinker or during shut down that the fan will run until shut off.

This will assure that you don't get smoke in the room during shut down.

Snowy

 

[doryman1]

Yep, that is what I had in mind by using the always on hot terminal that feeds the low limit to wire in a simple switch in parallel with same or a timer to accomplish 120v at start up to booster motor. Currently with the crippled relay in place, the only function not working correctly is voltage to Booster at start up. Once stove is hot and low limit closes all is normal ; shut down from board goes normally with Booster motor running until low limit opens, shutting stove off. I have determined that with no power to the original relay there is a dedicated connection from the low limit input to the booster terminal on the relay; not sure what happens at relay when power is supplied to relay. Comments welcome and thank you, barry

 

[markreiss]

I am considering my own solution for the no booster on start up situation by placing an ac switch in parallel with the low limit disk, turning it on at start up and off after stove warms up to ensure proper shut down.

Doryman1, how did this turn out? I seem to be having the exact same problem with my Whitfield Advantage Plus Freestanding Pellet Stove. The low limit switch seems to be in working order (open when cold, closed when hot), but I think the 30 minute timer relay must be dead since, like you, there is no power to the blowers at startup. I did the same thing you were thinking of doing, and wired a manual switch that when in the on position would "jumper" across the low limit switch, giving it power... then once the stove heats up after a couple minutes, I turn my manual switch off, and the stove continues to run (since the low limit switch engaged into the closed position). This now allows my stove to run properly, and when the fire goes out and it cools down, it properly shuts off. Curious if you did the same thing or came up with a different solution?