Whitfield Profile 20-2 Freestanding Blinking & Clicking

[Grimm]

I am looking for some help understanding what might be wrong with my pellet stove.

When I turn the stove on the power indicator over the On switch as well as the Blower and Heat indicators are flashing. Additionally, there is a "clicking" sound that accompanies these flashes. The flashes occur in a consistent interval somewhere between 1-2 seconds apart (I haven't specifically timed it).

Per another forum post HERE it looks like this might be related to a thermostat open fault, but it doesn't mention anything about clicking.

I removed the thermostat from the equating and rejumpered the terminal block only to find the problem still occurring.

What else could this be? What else should I be checking?

Thank you!

 

[smwilliamson]

Sticking start button I'd say

 

[Grimm]

Sticking start button I'd say

I don't think that's it, but I suppose it's possible. My reasoning for it not being the case is that the bubble doesn't feel broken in any way the bubble resist and "pops" as it is depressed with a definitive feel.

The following link shows the type of control board (this is for the Profile 30, but they are visually nearly identical).

Are you suggesting the switch on the PCB for the control board might have just gone bad?

 

[smwilliamson]

I don't think that's it, but I suppose it's possible. My reasoning for it not being the case is that the bubble doesn't feel broken in any way the bubble resist and "pops" as it is depressed with a definitive feel.

The following link shows the type of control board (this is for the Profile 30, but they are visually nearly identical).

Are you suggesting the switch on the PCB for the control board might have just gone bad?

Yes

 

[Grimm]

Hmmm... Regardless of what has gone before after tinkering with it for a bit I pressed and held the Blower button and the flashing stopped. I was then able to turn all the indicator lights off by pressing the On/Off button. Now it won't start at all. No power. No lights. No clicking. Nothing. Ugh.

Does anyone have any recommendations for me? Should I splurge and get a replacement stove or spend the money on a replacement control board. It is a 12 year old stove at this point. I'm sure I'm close to needing a new igniter and should probably replace the firebrick and head exchange baffle, but otherwise it has been relatively good and reliable. To be fair the stove has never quite run well since moving it from the upstairs to the downstairs. I have a P43 that seems to be working well upstairs.

 

[Bioburner]

Hmmm... Regardless of what has gone before after tinkering with it for a bit I pressed and held the Blower button and the flashing stopped. I was then able to turn all the indicator lights off by pressing the On/Off button. Now it won't start at all. No power. No lights. No clicking. Nothing. Ugh.

Does anyone have any recommendations for me? Should I splurge and get a replacement stove or spend the money on a replacement control board. It is a 12 year old stove at this point. I'm sure I'm close to needing a new igniter and should probably replace the firebrick and head exchange baffle, but otherwise it has been relatively good and reliable. To be fair the stove has never quite run well since moving it from the upstairs to the downstairs. I have a P43 that seems to be working well upstairs.

You should not have dropped it down those stairs There is Whit board repair. Pain that it would be nice to use as we see another ugly bit of weather. They posted weather alert here at noon.

 

[Grimm]

Hah! Yeah. Not pretty. I live just north of the cities near Zimmerman. Not excited about sending it out for repair and waiting for 1-2 weeks to see if that does the trick, but it might be worth it versus ordering a new board. I should probably fiddle with the wiring some more to make sure it's not a bad connection, too.

 

[Mt Bob]

if you feel up to it.remove board from box that it is in and clean with electrical contact cleaner and compressed air(lightly) may make it work for a while.

 

[Grimm]

So fiddling around with things got one change. When I plug the stove in the Heat indicators all flash once, as does the "Calib" lettering under the heat button. Nothing else happens no matter what buttons are pressed.

 

[Grimm]

if you feel up to it.remove board from box that it is in and clean with electrical contact cleaner and compressed air(lightly) may make it work for a while.

I may try that. Not much to lose at this point, right?

 

[Grimm]

No dice. I see nothing wrong with the board visually. No charring or burning smell. Just the smell of fail. Lol.

 

[Mt Bob]

No dice. I see nothing wrong with the board visually. No charring or burning smell. Just the smell of fail. Lol.

I was thinking your board has little microswitches on it,not a pad setup like a tv remote.Sometimes cleaning the switches helps.

 

[Grimm]

I was thinking your board has little microswitches on it,not a pad setup like a tv remote.Sometimes cleaning the switches helps.

Good point. I suppose I haven't moved the dip switches back and forth to clear those contacts.

 

[Mt Bob]

Work all the switches while spraying(cold fingers!)Spray may damage decal/cover unless you remove it.

 

[Grimm]

Work all the switches while spraying(cold fingers!)Spray may damage decal/cover unless you remove it.

Only four dip switches so not much time needed to work it and still a no go.

 

[Mt Bob]

Only four dip switches so not much time needed to work it and still a no go.

OK Ithought yours has buttons on front-push on/off,etc.Good luck.

 

[Grimm]

OK Ithought yours has buttons on front-push on/off,etc.Good luck.

Yes, it does, but I can't figure out how I can get to those. The front piece appears to be glued or adhered in some way.

 

[Mt Bob]

Yes, it does, but I can't figure out how I can get to those. The front piece appears to be glued or adhered in some way.

Now you know why they cost so much!

 

[Grimm]

Here are actual pictures with the box disassembled. The last picture is of the board that is connected via a ribbon cable through a hole to the front buttons and panel.

 

[Mt Bob]

The problem is probably right at the buttons.Did not realize it was a layered board.Do not know if you can get to buttons,cannot tell from pictures.

 

[Grimm]

I just stumbled across this. What do you think?
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/whitfield-profile-20-control-board-problem.13618/

 

[Mt Bob]

I just stumbled across this. What do you think?
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/whitfield-profile-20-control-board-problem.13618/

Possible.An easy test is to heat the back of the control unit with a hair dryer and trying to start stove.Also another thread where a guy replaced that part and fried his board.

 

[Grimm]

Possible.An easy test is to heat the back of the control unit with a hair dryer and trying to start stove.Also another thread where a guy replaced that part and fried his board.

Really? A hair dryer? Out of curiosity, what does that do?

 

[Stovensen]

This seems to be the week for bypass relays on the Whits to go south

The pcb on a Profile 20-2 is quite different from my Quest Plus pcb, still, on Grimm's pic we see something that most likely is the bypass relay. Grimm, can you read what is written on the left side of that little black component marked with K1 on the pcb? It could also be the relay switching power to the igniter... to rule that out, you will have to follow the traces from the igniter terminals and where these lead to on the pcb.
Once you have the exact relay type, It's easy to find the datasheet, availability, and, if needed, pin to pin replacements.

 

[sbeecroft]

I worked on this problem for a couple months.. Here is what I learned..

The slower green and amber blink and click symptom appears to be a problem with the controller associated with the relay. I sent mine in to heatwaveelectronics@gmail.com to have it rebuilt and it works like a champ. $150.00 for the repair. Jim is great.

I found a replacement photoeye on Ebay and Amazon for about 12 dollars.. Honeywell Part number C554A. I tried to located the photoeye for weeks with no luck. Discovered it while removing the control panel. You can find it on the control panel side tucked up behind a Silver triangle held by one screw.

The fast green light is associated with a dirty photoeye... when I figure out the best way to clean it, I will post here.

Steve