I have a whitfield profile 20 that I bought a few months ago, and its never ending problems... First was that it would smoke my house up BAD, then once it stopped it would run ok, but a big tall lazy fire and would shut down 1-3 hrs later.. I had a local Lennox dealer come out to inspect it and "cleaned" it.. He then told me my exhaust blower was weak and I need to replace it.. We shut it off and cleaned it reinstalled it and it worked better then ran for 25 hrs.. Then I shut off... When I turned it back on a HUGE gas like explosion happend in the fire box. I called my dealer he then said the exhaust blower was out and to replace.. So I ordered a new one installed that and as soon as we plugged it into the wall the fan was kicked on... Then I was told the high limit switches need replaced.. So we replaced that and SAME problem the fan kicks on as soon as it's plugged in.. Left it running for a few mins nothing happens expect cool air blows out.. The auger is not feeding pellets and we are just so frustrated with this thing.... Checked the convection blower it's running checked the photo eye it's ok, check the pressure switch it's ok... Does this sound like a control board issue or wiring issue or what? Any ideas on what else to try or check?? I cant keep paying the guy at the store to come out...
Whitfield Profile 20 never ending problems ?!?!
- Thread starter NKPRTR
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
Replace the proof of fire snap disc. It's the 1 located on the combustion blower. You did reconnect it right
Ctcarl
Feeling the Heat
Sounds like the used inviro ef3 I had for a year and a half.after $150 service calls also 3 new snap discs and a refurbished auger.Finnally traded it in is how I solved the problem.The tech said they would be using it for scrap metal.good luck
Ctcarl
Feeling the Heat
It's a used stove I got and had the same problems your having with the whitfield. I feel your pain it gets I got so frustrated with it's never ending problems.
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
Sounds like a board problem to me.But there are lots of places that repair them.At least we are in a warm spell.
Ok then your original post is confusing. It says you replaced the high limit switch. That's not the same thing.
Oops I'm sorry I misread your switch post is there a way to test that or how would I know??? I'm sorry for the confusion :/
The fact that the fan comes on immediately tells you the switch is stuck in the open position. The switch is normally closed until it hits 140 degrees. You can order a new 1 on eBay for 26 bucks. You can test it with an ohms meter but I'm not sure how. I think there are directions somewhere on this site.
Ok I'm confused a bit sorry... But are you talking about the pressure switch being the proof of fire snap disc?
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
I think you do not have a proof of fire switch,that is what the photoeye does.You already replaced high limit,can try jumping vacuum switch,also,try jumping door switch,that will keep auger from working.But suspect bad motor took out board and that is why it runs when stove is off.
Yeah I don't think there is a proof of fire and I do have a photo eye which was clean and tested.. And Bob what bad motor would you suspect?
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
I was thinking the one you replaced(old one possibly caused problem).Try bypassing door switch,try same on vacuum switch,You can test all 3 motors,on that stove,by wiring direct to 120v.If you can get auger to work try lighting stove manualy.When stove whent poof could have damaged vacuum switch.You have lots of things you can check.You can go to a1 stoves and see a wiring diagram.
The fan coming on immediately still suggest bad Proof of Fire. Photo eye must be cleaned and filter removed and cleaned. If you can unplug the 2 yellow wires on back of control board and jumper the board connector that will tell you it's the eye or not
MountainSean
Credo Quia Absurdum
The exhaust fan could be bad, which would cause that lazy flame problem and could cause the explosive start up. You can connect it to wall power directly and it should spin up to 3k rpm within a couple of seconds. If it only spins slowly or takes a long time to come up to speed then that would indicate bad motor.
For the combustion fan kicking on as soon as you plug it in, unplug the photo eye from the board, then plug it in. If it does not start then the photo eye is bad. If the exhaust blower still starts once plugged in you have a bad control board. You can also test the voltage going to the exhaust blower from the control board, there is a huge range on the voltages because the newer boards gave a lot of adjustment range for the boards.
Start up: 75 volts
Low: 62 - 90
Medium: 70 - 101
High: 78 - 113
Those are all +/- 5 volts without issue.
For the auger not feeding given the other parts you checked do a bench test on that as well by putting wall power to it. If it runs, hold it at an upside down angle like it sits at in the stove and try to stop the shaft from turning with a pair of pliers, which you shouldn't be able do.
Thank you all for your input an help! We did find a bad wire fixed that and it's been running for almost 16hrs straight with a very nice strong fire!! I hope after all the things we fixed replaced an cleaned was what it needed... It's nice and toasty warm in the house this morning 
joebcarr
New Member
im having same problem, with the same stove. which wire did you fix? I was about to order new exhaust motor....
- Status
Similar threads
