Fire going out after a hour -
I narrowed down the problem this weekend to be not the overheat sensors (2) but the air pressure sensor which measures flu gas exhaust pressure. After some investigation I determined that a "spark arrester" screen that I had installed in the chimney cap had become clogged with ash and was causing back pressure in the flu. It was only partially clogged which meant the stove would run ok for some amount of time before new ash would practically close the opening. It came to me during one of my moods of reflection (on the head). I removed my screen and now the stove runs fine. It proves the theory that machines do in fact "talk" to you. Sometimes you have to listen very closely perhaps even look into your own soul. Could it be that my "innovation" was causing the problem. Impossible!! You arrogant idiot. Let the machine do what it was designed to do and don't screw with it. I learned my lesson. Thanks for your response. (If your stove is on most of the winter keep the screen off. Put it on in the summer to protect against bugs, ants, bees and rodents)
Stove Keeps Going Out
Hi Mike,
I had the guy from the pellet stove company out today. He was telling me that the seal around the ash door was gone (it was never there). He put a seal in. He also adjusted the catch on that door, as it stopped catching and may have been letting in too much air. He also actually turned the Combustion Air screw DOWN. Imagine that. When I called them, they told me to turn it up. That with the leak in the ash box, no wonder it wouldn't stay lit.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I appreciate the assistance.
Fire going out - I told her to check the exhaust air coming from the fan.
After getting your e-mail and checking further on my chimney, I discovered that there was no exhaust pressure outside. I stopped the stove, let it cool off and removed the chimney from the back. Started the exhaust fan and there was nothing coming out of it. So I removed the fan from the collector manifold and it was dirty inside, cleaned it well with the shop-vac, reinstalled the exhaust fan and tested it. Still no pressure. Took it out again and decided to remove the manifold from the back wall. There are openings on both sides, left and right and they lead to the suction openings behind the air tubes on top. There was my problem. The suction tubes for the exhaust fan were blocked. They are quite hard to reach. With a coat hanger wire I managed to poke in from behind the air tubes and loosen the ash. Using a flat adapter on the vac. I squeezed in between the side and the last tube and sucked out what I could. But it was not enough. After removing all I could from the top on both sides, I returned to the back and started from the opening where the manifold attached. Did the right side with the hanger, poking and sucking out with the flat attachment and also tapping the metal back with a small hammer loosened a lot of creosote. So after the right side was clear, I started on the left which is another story to access with the vac because you have the auger in your way and also the air fan on the right. I made sort of a U with the hanger ,inserted one end and by pulling the other in a poking motion, manage to loosen a lot of soot. Problem was that I could not use the vac, no room. I finally found a solution. I used a 1 1/2 foot lengh of automotive 3/4 in heater hose, greased the end and inserted it on the flat attachment for the vac. Using this, I could work from the right side, bend the hose in a U and suck out of the left tunnel. It took me a while working from the front and the back,but I finally managed to clear it. Put the manifold back in place, coating the paper gasket with Permatex gasket maker, reinstalled the exhaust fan, also using the Permatex, plugged the stove, put my hand over the fan outlet and started the fans. What a difference, lots of pressure. Reinstalled the chimney and started the stove with pellets. The stove is now performing as it should. My damper is only slightly open, feed at mid low, beautiful flame and heat. And now I get a lot of response as my flame really jumps when I open the damper. So that was my problem and my solution. Because I work the stove for about 5 months at low, I guess, ash build-up is heavier. So next year I will perform the same clean-up at start-up and enjoy my stove for the whole season. Thank you very much for your coaching and tips
is a Whitfield Profile 30 - Same problem, motor washer worn
MIKE
Thank Goodness For U & You're Site
This Stove Was Installed March Of 2001
So As Far As I Can Figure Out It Was An Original Profile 30 Insert
The Manual U Sent Is For The Newer Model "Easy Access"
Eye
The Eye In This One Reads Through A Little Slit In The Feed Wall & The Stove Has To Be Disassembled To Get At It
I Can See It Being A Hard One To Get Dirty
But That Was Not Our Problem
Pellet Feed As U Say
The Motor Armature Had A Least 1/8" Play Or More
On The Back Side Of The Armature There Was A Blue Spacer & A Washer So Thin I Missed It The First Time Around
Salvaged From A Paper Dispenser Was A 10" Length Of High Mol. Weight Plastic With Exactly The Perfect Size Of Hole In It To Fit The Armature Shaft
I Made A Stepped Bushing To Replace The Blue Spacer & The Spacer Washer On The Wood Lathe
Took 2 Tries To Get The Proper Thickness But Only Takes A matter Of Minutes To Make One
The Other Thing We Found Was A Build Up Of Fines (Sawdust) In The Auger Area
Whether Or Not This Had A Bearing Or Not If Questionable
She Has Fired Up A Dozen Times Now & Hasn't Missed A Beat
When We Rec'd This Unit It's Factory Carton Had A Extra Label On It With The Word "ENHANCED" Stamped On It
I Asked A Service Person What That Meant & He Stated It Didn't Pass Its Inspections So Would Have Been Pulled & What Ever Redone In The Factory Before It Was Sold
Anyhow Again MANY, MANY THANKS TO YOU
TOM M.
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