Why is alternative heat Woodgun the best option for landowners

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WoodWacker

Member
Mar 9, 2013
40
Maine
I burn wood to heat my home, from my land, on my schedule, cheap and smokeless(pretty much). Pine, hemlock, spruce, and all assorted hardies.

Current setup - Hydronic BB and HT radiant in bathrooms and tiled areas. Half finished basement. 3000 sq. ft heated total. 1000 gallon basement pressurized storage. 140 woodgun behind garage in a separate room, underground pexy right to the tank. Woodgun installed in 2018, a 12 year old model at the time and was not run with storage..

Pro's - lets start with the gun - huge firebox, auto close damper, integrated thermal storage(no need for a dump zone when CMP sheets the bed), burns anything(bigger is better) cut and split today and burn tomorrow. Cut, don't split today and burn next year. No o2 sensor, PCB or microprocessor. Exhaust hood sucks out all the smoke whilst starting it up. Mechanical time switch - runs for predetermined time and shuts off based on how much wood is loaded. The woodgun is sized perfectly to add about 4-500k btus to my tank with 1 load of wood. The box is 32", but I load 24" wood. I start at 5pm when I get home, load fully, light and set timer to 7 hours. My tank goes from 150 to 190 in that time. I don't touch it again until I get home from work the following day.

Cons = GUN - does smoke on start. Heat lost from boiler jacket is lost to the garage, not the house. Center brick replacement after 12-15 cord of wood burned with storage in a batch. Approx 200 bucks every 2 or 3 years. The fan does draw some amperage, I'd not want to run it on a solar system. I know it's not as efficient as a lambda unit, however, either is its supplying hand. I may have a handful of hemlock splits followed by a 16 inch pine round. It does not care what you throw at it, it will eat it and make my wife warm. Massive - they are not fun to move around. Refractory - alike other gassers, they have an abundance of refractory. When I installed this used unit, it needed all new refractory - it cost me 1200 bucks plus center bricks. So 1400 total. With storage, I don't see ever needing to replace the lower refractory again. I've run 8 cord x 4 years through it and the lower end brick looks like new.

Although I've found the best overall bulk wood heating combination, I would like to try a lambda unit to see how fussy the actually are. For some reason I feel like the lambda guys are successful retirees that've spent more in name and efficiency than they'll ever end up using. They pride themselves in burning 42 lbs of kiln dried CSD firewood and receiving 500,000 btu's from that batch. Someone tell me I'm wrong. The OEM that fires me up is Varmebaronen, the simplistic design and robustness has attracted me for years. Unfortunately I'm here to save money and haven't pulled that trigger. I hope I see one on craigslist to help prove myself right that the Gun is the best overall solid fuel burner ever.

Thanks again for Hearth.com community, I built my wood burning dream from this forum board. Maple1 is an inspiration and he would make any miller product taste good. :)
 
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Not sure the WG is the best overall unit ever as stated(it may be one of the best w/o storage), but it is simplistic in its design and if maintained properly it is efficient. I still have the original firebox main refractory after 15 years. Also replace nozzle bricks e/o year.
We heat apprx. 2200 sq.ft. of living area along with hot water on about 4-5 cords per year. I would NEVER cut today and burn tomorrow. All the wood used is aged 1 to 3 years depending on wood density. This year's batch is mainly 3 yr oak, most I've ever burned in 1 year and looks like it will get a good test this coming weekend. I truly wish we had the room for storage but it will never happen in this house, running the WG in the shoulder season is a PITA w/o storage, I make many trips to the basement.
 
I bought a stainless e180 13 years ago, never replaced any of the bricks. When my top bricks broke up I replaced with homemade steel plates which I replace every couple of years made from scrap. My tunnel bricks broke between them, I just cleaned everything with wire brush and vacuum, rolled up some duct work metal to act as a form in the tubes and poured in some new refractory. After it set, pulled out the forms, that was 2 years ago, still fine. I burn anything and everything in it, from green spruce to year old maple. Overall pretty happy with it.
 
Just curious as to why you would burn green wood?
 
clean up after hurricane fiona. Not a lot of it. Boiler/wood room gets up to 90+F, doesn't take long to dry it out.
 
Love my e-100 but have to burn seasoned wood. 12 years now never bought center bricks From alternative heating. Made my own from 2200 dregs wood stove fire brick. Cut to size and drill holes easy to install. Use a set of them a year total cost about $15. Heating 2700 ft house and part time 1200 ft shop. Would love storage but don’t want to give up space in shop. Ive look at other boiler but the wood gun is simple.
 
You are breaking those bricks cause you are sending a lot of 1000 degree hot steam across them. I still have my EKO 25 since Sept. 2009 and still going strong. My bottom bricks are perfect . My upper chamber is cracked a bit.
 
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I think the main thing here is the OP is running his boiler wide open to heat a storage tank inside the insulation envelope.

Any BTUs that leak out of the storage tank are inside the envelop he is trying to heat.

The most important thing he is not doing is smoldering green wood waiting for the next call from one of the thermostats.

Serious kudos to the OP.

I don't know a lamda unit from Adam's cat, but feeding the boiler dry seasoned wood will give him more BTUs in the envelope per pound of wound wrestled into the firebox.

M2c.