OK so sorry if this is a stupid question. I was wondering if it's possible to install a window in an old wood stove that has never had one? I've searched for info on this and can't find anything. Also, if possible, I'd rather put it on the side of the stove. The stove is all steel except the door that is cast and I'd rather not deal with the cast.
Window install?
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Your stove is tested as it was designed to be used. If it didn't have pyroceram, then it's probably inadvisable to put a piece in it.
Your home & your family. Your call.
The likelihood of the glass staying clean is dubious and it would take a complete shutdown of the stove to clean it. If the desire is a great fireview there are numerous new stoves on the market that will burn cleaner and allow nice viewing of the fire.
Don't really care about watching the fire. I'm going to install some secondary burn tubes and want to be able to see to regulate
is the fire box bricklined? be kinda hard to get the temp up high enough with out being lined to sustain secondary combustion- you wouldn't want to get that close to a large angry red glowing monster in the room not to mention other less than nice side effects
Certainly most anything is possible... easy / advisable / practical are other matters. You are running into the main problem retrofitting secondary air to an all-steel stove... you can't see what the heck is going on inside, and opening the door to look kills what ever was happening with the secondary combustion.
Assuming you can work around the brick lining, cut a hole in the side of the stove without creating stress risers which would then tend to crack, get the 'glass' (pyroceram / neoceram) in firmly in place and sealed, but allow for thermal expansion of the steel without cracking the glass - then it should be doable.
If I had to do it, I would probably opt for more of an 'observation port' or 'peep sight' type arrangement with a smallish window ...2-4" vs some large sheet of glass in the whole side of the stove. Some others (Classic stove forum is a good place to search) have built new doors out of mild steel, added windows to them and simply replaced the cast doors all together.
Assuming you can work around the brick lining, cut a hole in the side of the stove without creating stress risers which would then tend to crack, get the 'glass' (pyroceram / neoceram) in firmly in place and sealed, but allow for thermal expansion of the steel without cracking the glass - then it should be doable.
If I had to do it, I would probably opt for more of an 'observation port' or 'peep sight' type arrangement with a smallish window ...2-4" vs some large sheet of glass in the whole side of the stove. Some others (Classic stove forum is a good place to search) have built new doors out of mild steel, added windows to them and simply replaced the cast doors all together.
sportbikerider78
Minister of Fire
If it was me...I'd find a door that fits from another stove and fabricate hinges to fit your stove. Wayyyyy easier...hinges are just drilled blocks. Machine to 2x the length and cut in half. Boom...2 hinges.
Ya these are all just thoughts right now. Gather information before I start anything. The brick lining only goes so far up the stove. An "observation port" is all I'm looking for. I will see how hot the stove actually gets under normal operation before I make any modifications. Like I said these are just thoughts. Gathering information so I can make an informed decision before I do anything. I just like the idea of getting the most heat out of a stick of wood as I can, as cheap as I can, and not seeing it go right out the pipe.
Wherever you put the glass, it needs air flow over it. So you need an air wash or primary air intake that rushes over the glass keeping smoke particles from sticking when first started. It will be black by the time you burn long enough to ignite secondary combustion. You then need to tilt baffle and burn tubes toward glass so the intense heat burns it off and keeps it clean. If not done right, the glass will do you no good since you won't be able to see through it.
Easiest is to find a glass door stove with good air wash and add baffle and secondary burn tubes, or make baffle with double plate allowing about 1/2 inch between plates and drill air inlet holes in the bottom plate. This preheats the incoming air inside the baffle which is the hottest part of the stove. Again, angle forward facing holes to heat glass or it will carbon up the glass quickly.
Easiest is to find a glass door stove with good air wash and add baffle and secondary burn tubes, or make baffle with double plate allowing about 1/2 inch between plates and drill air inlet holes in the bottom plate. This preheats the incoming air inside the baffle which is the hottest part of the stove. Again, angle forward facing holes to heat glass or it will carbon up the glass quickly.
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