With my new timer/controllers on the way, I decided I had better get all the wiring ideas, color codes and such down on paper.
Had some time this morning to doodle out a schematic (such as it is) and it is a doodle on an unlined note pad right now.
Looked it all over and it will work sweet for the Prodigy and likely the Advantage as well.
I will share this for anyone wanting to accept the challenge of a DIY control system.
Keep in mind that all the original safeties are still in place. I am switching the high temp snap switches out for ones that must be manually reset if they trip.
The factory pressure switch is in the system as is the low pressure switch, fuse/fuses etc.
All the wiring is color coded to allow ease in tracing out what goes where. (currently its not that easy to follow)
A stove that does not use a door switch can still use this setup, with only slight modifications
The Prodigy uses the Blower fan as both an inducer as well as convection fan and it must be off if the door is opened.
The door switch in this app controls the power to the Blower fan as well as the fuel feed system.
The exhaust fan runs as soon as the master switch is turned on.
This setup requires the Burner switch to be turned off to shut the system down and then as soon as the fire is out and the stove has cooled down, the main can be switched off.
A little bit less automated but plenty safe and far less complicated than the original system.
The control timers are really simple and have only simple 1/4" spade terminals
The main on off timer has the on time setting on the timer .3 seconds to 10 seconds (2 seconds optimum) and the off time (heat setting) is on a remote pot in the panel
The one shot timer has the time adjustable on the timer from .3 minutes to 30 minutes
The latchout relay will shut the stove off if the AC power is interupted for a second or two and must be manually reset with a button before the stove will run again.
A 6 amp fuse protects the entire system and a 2 amp fuse is in line with the feed motor.
The controllers are rated at 10 amps and the entire system only uses about 3-1/2 .
The original low temp switch is retained and used pretty much in the same manner as the factory wiring had it.
Originally the exhaust fan was tied in with the door switch and this made cleaning the pot on the fly a bit tough as the thing could smoke into the room.
There are to be two indicator lamps on the panel, the MAIN power lamp GREEN and will be on any time the main switch is on. The other lamp is Orange and will illuminate while the auger is feeding.
Here is a Piccy of the schematic
Now that I have the details done, I will work at making the schematic neater.
Just have to buy the various colored wire and the needed Buss bars and such extra goodies.
With this done, the job will be really easy to do.
Snowy
Had some time this morning to doodle out a schematic (such as it is) and it is a doodle on an unlined note pad right now.
Looked it all over and it will work sweet for the Prodigy and likely the Advantage as well.
I will share this for anyone wanting to accept the challenge of a DIY control system.
Keep in mind that all the original safeties are still in place. I am switching the high temp snap switches out for ones that must be manually reset if they trip.
The factory pressure switch is in the system as is the low pressure switch, fuse/fuses etc.
All the wiring is color coded to allow ease in tracing out what goes where. (currently its not that easy to follow)
A stove that does not use a door switch can still use this setup, with only slight modifications
The Prodigy uses the Blower fan as both an inducer as well as convection fan and it must be off if the door is opened.
The door switch in this app controls the power to the Blower fan as well as the fuel feed system.
The exhaust fan runs as soon as the master switch is turned on.
This setup requires the Burner switch to be turned off to shut the system down and then as soon as the fire is out and the stove has cooled down, the main can be switched off.
A little bit less automated but plenty safe and far less complicated than the original system.
The control timers are really simple and have only simple 1/4" spade terminals
The main on off timer has the on time setting on the timer .3 seconds to 10 seconds (2 seconds optimum) and the off time (heat setting) is on a remote pot in the panel
The one shot timer has the time adjustable on the timer from .3 minutes to 30 minutes
The latchout relay will shut the stove off if the AC power is interupted for a second or two and must be manually reset with a button before the stove will run again.
A 6 amp fuse protects the entire system and a 2 amp fuse is in line with the feed motor.
The controllers are rated at 10 amps and the entire system only uses about 3-1/2 .
The original low temp switch is retained and used pretty much in the same manner as the factory wiring had it.
Originally the exhaust fan was tied in with the door switch and this made cleaning the pot on the fly a bit tough as the thing could smoke into the room.
There are to be two indicator lamps on the panel, the MAIN power lamp GREEN and will be on any time the main switch is on. The other lamp is Orange and will illuminate while the auger is feeding.
Here is a Piccy of the schematic
Now that I have the details done, I will work at making the schematic neater.
Just have to buy the various colored wire and the needed Buss bars and such extra goodies.
With this done, the job will be really easy to do.
Snowy