Woodwind stove?

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ptharris

New Member
May 2, 2016
7
Pennsylvania
Hi Folks,

I'm new to the forum and am looking for some help identifying a stove that I have put into my fireplace. The only markings on it is the word "WOODWIND" on the front below the doors. I bought it used off a guy that had it in his garage and cleaned it up. (Actually I have 2, the other one is basically the same but with a larger heat shield on the back. I bought that one used off an old Italian dude but am not using it for anything right now.)

We are stoning the fireplace and adding the stove as an insert but I need to send a "certificate of installation" to the insurance company and one of the things they want to know is the make/model of the stove and I cannot find ANY information on this thing. I'm trying to figure out who/if tested and certified this thing. I had an old one just like it (different brand though) growing up and it worked great so I'm not worried about anything other than getting it through the insurance. They (state farm) are just asking for that cert. of installation and pictures.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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I have not seen that insert before, but judging by its air controls and design it may be pre-UL certification. Is there any sort of tag or UL label on the side or back?
 
I have not seen that insert before, but judging by its air controls and design it may be pre-UL certification. Is there any sort of tag or UL label on the side or back?

I have no idea. I didn't notice any but also wasn't looking for them. Would it be a tag or stamped into the stove somewhere?
 
Usually it is a metal tag pop riveted or glued to the stove side or rear.
 
Well there was definitely nothing like that on either of these stoves.

My insurance company told me that "as long as it is installed properly" they wont cancel me (just a $40 increase) but they aren't going to inspect it. Is there any code I can reference for a non UL tested stove? I know to pipe it up into the chimney liner but in terms of clearances what do I do since it's in the firebox and it has that heat shield?

Like I said I had an old one like this slammed into the box (no pipe) my whole childhood and one of these stoves had that exact set up so I'm not that concerned about anything except the insurance. Also, the chimney is exterior to the house and solid stone masonry (as is the rest of the house), its resting on a 3.5-4 hearth stone which is on a separate concrete slab and 18 in on either side and ~3-4 ft up will be solid stone as well.
 
Slammer installs are no longer legal. The most important thing will be to install a proper liner after the chimney is thoroughly cleaned. What is the flue outlet like on the insert? Is it round or rectangular? If the latter you will need to get an adapter to round. Then the most important thing is to only burn fully seasoned wood. Poorly seasoned wood burns cooler and can gunk up a chimney quickly.
 
Slammer installs are no longer legal..

So, can you (or anyone else) clarify this a bit as I keep seeing contradictory information about how to do this type of install up to code where some people say you have to line it and others say you just need to connect to the chimney liner???

NFPA 211 section 13.4.5.1 says you can put a wood burner in a masonry chimney as log as "there is a connector that extends from the appliance to the flue liner"

To me that sounds like a pipe up to the chimney liner should be up to code. Is the issue with the "non combustible seal below the entry point" I thought that was in reference to where the connector attaches to the stove, are they referencing the point where connector enters the liner? If that is the case would a plate between the stove and the chimney liner work???

I'm not trying to imply I know the code better than anyone on here (I certainly don't) I just want to be knowledgeable about it.

Also I know that regardless of the technicalities of the code, a SS liner the whole way up it best and the outlet is round so this is an option. BUT, if it's not necessary I'm on a tight budget and having lived in a house that had a "slammer" set up for 30+ years (it was my grandparents house originally) without issue I don't want to do anything unless I absolutely have to.

I realize that I probably sound like I'm trying to get away with a half @$$ job. I'm not. I want to do it by the book and safely, just not overkill.

Also as a side note, the insert is almost exactly the size of the original firebox (we have about 1" of clearance on all sides from the firebox to the fire brick).We dry fitted it and opened the flue and the thing drafts great. Not sure if that makes things better or worse.

Thanks for all of the input so far begreen I appreciate it.
 
NFPA 211 section 13.4.5.1 says you can put a wood burner in a masonry chimney as log as "there is a connector that extends from the appliance to the flue liner"
Yes a direct connect is still legal as long as the flue is no greater than 3 times the volume of the stove outlet.

That being said i would never install one that way they do not work well and they are very difficult to clean
 
Yes a direct connect is still legal as long as the flue is no greater than 3 times the volume of the stove outlet.

That being said i would never install one that way they do not work well and they are very difficult to clean

Thanks. Does anyone know of where to get an inexpensive liner? Depending on the cost difference I might do one anyway as when I go to sell the house I'm sure who ever is inspecting it will have opinions similar to those expressed above and it might just be worth it now.
 
Thanks. Does anyone know of where to get an inexpensive liner? Depending on the cost difference I might do one anyway as when I go to sell the house I'm sure who ever is inspecting it will have opinions similar to those expressed above and it might just be worth it now.
There are lots of good online retailers shop around a bit. Again i strongly recommend doing the full liner and it should be insulated also.
 
So back to the original question, has anyone seen or heard of this company (Woodwind) before?? I somehow came to own 2 of them. They have a stamp inside the door that reads "D-1100" and "WF"?? I'm trying to figure out if this would have ever been tested by any company before.

After talking to the insurance company they are cool with an older stove as long as "it's installed properly" so if I can't find any owners manual for the thing I am going to proceed with non-UL listed clearances but I need a little clarification. All of the diagrams I keep seeing are for free standing stoves . Does anyone have one for an insert? Since it's in the firebox and there is a plate/heat shield on the stove does it matter how far the stone facing extends around it? Obviously it's more than 36" from any adjacent walls but what about the wall where the fireplace is built into? I have 18" in all directions for the hearth so I think I'm good there.
 
Correct, guidelines are for freestanding stoves. The main thing one needs to watch clearances for with an insert are the mantel and sidewalls. Should have at least 16" of hearth in front of the door.
 
Tried taking some of those clues to find the manufacturer ... nada:( Nothing under Wood Wind. Tried WF as a foundry mark ... nothing. Parts number D-1100 resulted in nothing.
 
Awesome. Thank you guys so much for all of the input. I really took for granted how much is involved in a proper wood stove installation.
Tried taking some of those clues to find the manufacturer ... nada:( Nothing under Wood Wind. Tried WF as a foundry mark ... nothing. Parts number D-1100 resulted in nothing.

Thanks for checking. I'm beginning to think it was some old local company that no longer exists. Does anyone know if there is any way to estimate it's age or time period? It doesn't seem particularly old but I don't really know much about the history of wood stoves.
 
That's why I tried the WF as a foundry ... Wilson (Michigan) & Windsor (Ontario) came up but in connection to engine parts. I think I searched PA for historic wood stove makers too.
 
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