Zero Clearance Help

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bcar

New Member
Sep 18, 2023
6
Iowa
Hey guys, been lurking for a while but need some real help now...

I'm tearing out my Quadra-Fire Explorer II to put in a ZC with a raised hearth and floor to ceiling stone chimney similar to the second attached pic.

Our room is 25x25 with vaulted ceilings. The Explorer is 2.4 CF fire box with no blower and heats the room just fine. Furnace t stat is on the sidewall of the room (I run furnace fan on a 50% schedule usually). On subzero nights or during high winds the furnace will usually end up kicking on early in the morning if I don't wake up and feed the fire sometime in the night. I also struggle to have any coals with this stove after 6-8 hours.

Aesthetics is one of the main goals here as we both love the lodge feel and look.. but more importantly; I absolutely do not want to downgrade in heat output or burn times. I've been looking at the Quadra Fire Pioneer II (have a local dealer) which is 2.7CF box, but is rated less square feet and shorter burn time than the Explorer, and I haven't been able to dredge up much for reviews on the Pioneer. So my main question before I get too far into this process, am I making a big mistake with the Pioneer II?

Sub note, we're also building a patio and plan to do an outdoor masonry fireplace that would back up to the ZC and be all one structure essentially.

Appreciate any help!

Wood Stove.jpg Chimney.png
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
100,910
South Puget Sound, WA
I'd go larger to a 3 or 3.5 cu ft firebox. If there is room it might be worth looking at fireplaces that have a deeper firebox that affords N/S loading. That will allow you to utilize the full size of the firebox without worrying about logs rolling up against the stove door glass.
 

bcar

New Member
Sep 18, 2023
6
Iowa
yeah I'd love a n/s loading stove, not sure we have the depth as my wife doesn't want it sticking too far into the room, and we can't push outside very far due to the patio and exterior fireplace. I also haven't really found a n/s loading model in my searches anyway; any recommendations would be appreciated.

We have a generator so I'm not too worried about the fan issue. I know some people say they're loud, but i grew up around an insert with a fan and it wasn't too big of a deal.

I would do a outside air intake. And i had considered running a duct into the basement also, but the local dealer said it's more efficient to just run the furnace fan 100%.
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
100,910
South Puget Sound, WA
For a N/S loader, take a look at the Pacific Energy FP30. It can take 18" splits. I think some of the RSF models can take 16" N/S. Their Opel 2 plus is catalytic which will help with low and slow burns during milder weather.

Ducting heat to the basement can be a mixed bag. If the basement is uninsulated, that is likely to negate the heat supplied. Also, using the furnace system to circulate the heat will depend on how well-insulated the supplies and returns are. If they are not insulated, the heat loss through the ductwork often means that the net effect is nil.
 

mcdougy

Minister of Fire
Apr 15, 2014
887
ontario
FP30....mine works better than I ever expected in our new build. Consider using a different fan then the one supplied in the remote heat duct kit. Ours needed replacing twice in 3 seasons. The main fan has worked without problems since installing.
 

bcar

New Member
Sep 18, 2023
6
Iowa
I do like the specs and dimensions of the FP30 a lot. Planning to go with that if price and lead time aren't too crazy.

say I did go with the two remote heat kit options, is there still a fan that blows air out the front of the unit, and are there any controls turn off the remote fans or dampeners for those ducts? Basement heat would be nice on occasion.
 

bcar

New Member
Sep 18, 2023
6
Iowa
I’m sure the best answer here would be to keep my Explorer stove and put that in the basement to use when we actually want heat down there 😬.
 

mcdougy

Minister of Fire
Apr 15, 2014
887
ontario
Yes there is a main fan below the firebox. You can wire the remote duct fans on separate switches. The oem remote duct fans are noisy. I would consider something different when they quit working. The remote duct fans are a nice option to send some heat away from the main stove room. We use ours all the time and especially if the stove roo is getting warmer than needed.
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
100,910
South Puget Sound, WA
IIRC someone reported substituting an AC INFINITY S6 inline duct fan for the remote as a quieter and less expensive option.
 

webby3650

Master of Fire
Sep 2, 2008
11,235
Indiana
Try expanding your search. kozy, FPX are also solid heaters. The FPX being a monster heater in the line up.
 

raiderfan

Feeling the Heat
Dec 1, 2008
295
Western MA
I'd go PE if it were me. I did not have the option but would have if I could. I did a similar reno that you are looking to do, when I ripped out my Winter Warm Unit (pics are in the Hearthstone thread if you are interested). I'm with BeGreen on the stove size recommendations - I went 2.5 and totally wish I did 3.0 cuft.
 

bcar

New Member
Sep 18, 2023
6
Iowa
I don't want a cat, and seems like the FP30 has good reviews other than people fighting the OAK and the fans. The Kozy looks solid too, but seems like the edge goes to the FP. Still waiting to hear back from my dealer on the FP. They had to get ahold of the MFG to check on pricing and availability. Kozy dealer is just a few blocks away from the FP.
 

KC2004

Member
Nov 25, 2020
36
Kansas City
Kozy Z42

Here is a link to my thread on the Kozy if you haven’t seen it.

I would go with the FP30 if it works for you. We love our Kozy Z42 and after living with it, I think the FP30 would have put out too much heat for our needs. The Z42 heats up our basement very quickly and I then turn on the blower fans to redirect air upstairs.

The AC Infiniti inline duct fan has been fantastic with zero issues still. I would be a bit more cautious installing this fan close to the FP30 though as it’s a more capable heater. These blowers have a max temp around 150 or 160 I think and if I recall, someone on the forum said their fan was turning off due to overheating. Highest air temp I’ve seen coming from the vent on the main floor on ours is in the 140’s
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
100,910
South Puget Sound, WA

bcar

New Member
Sep 18, 2023
6
Iowa
@KC2004 i had just ready your Kozy thread yesterday. Looks great! I'm not going for full house heat.. but if I had a good way to circulate then obviously that would just lead to less furnace time. I should add to my info, my house has an east and west hvac system that's split pretty evenly between the two halves. My east furnace where my wood stove is doesn't run much when i'm burning consistently and my footprint is only 1650 sf.

Hoping my dealer has an answer on the FP30 today, it is definitely my top choice at this point. I would drop one remote duct straight under into the basement, and with the 20' max run I might be able to get the second one over towards the other half of the house to supplement the west furnace. Hoping the FP30 isn't overkill, but my main goal is good overnight burns so I'm still thinking this is the way to go.
 
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