etiger2007
Minister of Fire
I tend to reload when the temps get just under 300 degrees stove top temp. Reloading a hot stove can be tough to control as far as keeping temps at a safe range.
awesome thanks! any info on where one can find a thermometer for a wood stove? also where is the best part of the stove to attach it?
ok so i picked up a few moisture meters. one is from harbor freight (with pins) and i borrowed the other one from ebay (pinless ryobi). wanted to have 2 sets of eyes on the wood. question about the pinned one...how far do the pins have to go inside the wood? am i pushing this thing in the wood as far as i can or just giving it a little prick or pinch?
ok so i picked up a few moisture meters. one is from harbor freight (with pins) and i borrowed the other one from ebay (pinless ryobi). wanted to have 2 sets of eyes on the wood. question about the pinned one...how far do the pins have to go inside the wood? am i pushing this thing in the wood as far as i can or just giving it a little prick or pinch?
The most accurate way of checking moisture content it to re-split an average sized split ... then take your reading on the freshly split 'face' of the wood. No need to push the pins in - just rest them on the wood surface and apply light pressureI use a drill with the smallest bit I have and insert the pins in the holes.
so waiting for the thermometer in the mail...in the mean time was wondering if anyone ever has any trouble with wood lighting when you are adding to HOT coals (some of the coals still have a flame coming off them). i am finding that i have to leave the door cracked for the wood to light. its mostly cherry, maple, oak and hickory wood. all of it is very seasoned. ~12-15% moisture content. i have the installer coming again on saturday as well because it seems like something still isn't right here.
Im finding with my new insert if I have that sucker packed full a cracked door for a few minutes helps things out, once going she cruises. If its four splits or less the door dosent need to be cracked. ( in my case)
so u are leaving the door cracked for ~30 min?
No, just 5 or 10 minutes. I just watch in for a bit after that to make sure its burning good and doesnt start to smolder before I turn the air down. I am told every stove is different, so this has just been my experience with mine. Im basically just talking about when I load it full, because I dont want all that wood packed tight to smother it.
will the fan on "high" setting burn through the wood faster? or is the wood burning time just a product of the air control alone?
awesome. thank you. one thing i am still struggling with is overnight burns.i usually use about 4-5 nice size logs (cherry, hickory, oak)... after 7-8 hours (fan on low and air control in about 3/4 of the way), the ashes arent really hot so i need to start a fire from scratch again. i am loading E/W. anyone have some advice on what i can do better to get the 8-12 hours the manufacturer suggests?
Be sure to use a timer. For the first 30 minutes or so, you will either have the door cracked or the air full up. Many here, including me, can tell stories about how easy it is to get distracted during this period. Personally, I only keep the the door open for a few minutes, but it depends on the size of wood splits.so u are leaving the door cracked for ~30 min?
Yes, I would say, most times. Sometimes, when things are going real well, I put it all the way in even with the fan on. Most times so far I've kept it between 1/4 and 1/2 inch out. I like that it's controllable.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.