A lot of times my fires look windy like does this mean i have good draft?
Edit. Except for my aviator pic.
Edit. Except for my aviator pic.
Good draft should have your smoke going out the chimney, instead of rolling out of the stove, unless its warm outside. Do you have a probe thermometer? Your typical stove with the air intake, airwash, just air moving all over in the stove, so the flame will bounce around.
I remember the thread now. Your flames will bounce around, especially when your secondaries are going, sometimes ghostlike. Theres alot of air being pushed and pulled in all directions in that stove. A chimney, straight up, you should be good with draft.
500 to 600F cruz sounds about right I cruz right in that range as well once everything has settled down.
Are we talking probe or stove top?What temp do you all get on start up or reload the reason i ask is it takes a bit to even get up to those temps?
I let the flue get to 400 then back the air down about 1/4 then the stove top starts to climb. At about 500 flue temp I go down another 1/4 then it jumps to 600-800 range I can pretty much forget it at that point. By that point the stove top should be between 300 and 450 as the coal bed develops it will clime stove top up into the 600F range. Keep in mind this is a different stove but the concept should remain the same.
Pete
That sounds like how i do it but i try and let the stove get to 400 stove top before first air adjustment but it don't always workout.
The only way my stove starts heating up is if i close air a bit But some times i can wait till stove top hits 400.
But i have never hit 800 on the probe.
Flue is as pallet pete mentioned. Your flue is like your rpm's and the stove top is your mph in a car. Both play a role in explaining whats happening and where. Use your eyes too. Sometimes you can gauge whats going to happen before your thermos show it.
I used to only go by the stove top, through most of last year. I got a probe finally, and this year, I use that as a guide first. How is your wood? I had perfectly seasoned wood last year until the end of the season, when I was forced to cut standing dead, which was less than 30% mc, but not where it should have been for these new epa stoves. That plays a huge role in how fast, or slow a stove will heat up.
I think that snow from Sandy got my wood wet Cause before things were easier operation.
Maybe, if it hasn't dried in a windy location, I can see that. I have oak that I c/s/s from last october, and resplit a piece, and its still at 40% mc. Hopefully will be ready by next year. Oak takes 2-3 yrs to season, as I'm sure you've read here quite a few times, but if any of that is mixed in, it could be the culprit.
If you have to put a basket in the stove room not to close to the stove with firewood in it. It will really help dry the wood for the next load. NOT TO CLOSE to the stove or you could have a outside the stove.
Pete
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