Purchased a Hearthstone Clydesdale having the place I purchased it from Ashwood fireplace in Patchohue li ny install it. Was going to tackle it my self but with the tax savings of a capital improvement it didn't make sense.
They are charging $750 for the install and want to make sure it is installed right w/o any corners being cut. I'm saving about 350 in taxes having it installed.
Just wanted to make sure it gets installed correctly I have a masonary chimney 13 x 13" clay flu they will be installing a 6" stainless liner 18 ft to the top.
How should it be insulated? ( Installer mentioned sealing at top of chimney and at the damper w/ sounded like regular R30 fiberglass not Roxul which I read on here should be used? I asked if there would be a metal block off plate at the damper which didn't seem like they are going to install one...If there is no block up plate what will prevent the insulation from falling onto the insert is this a possible fire hazard?
I have natural stone around the opening which sticks out wanted to know if it could be mortared in to avoid seeing gaps didn't seem like installer wanted to bother. Would rather not grind bricks in case I ever sell house and remove insert
I also have a Vacu-stack on my current chimney to eliminate a down draft (came with the house I bought last yr) not sure if it's needed anymore? Installer said I wouldn't need it but I wasn't confident in his answer.
I will attach a few pictures of the stone and chimney with vacu-stack below. Any help would be appreciated!!
WIT Performance:
Like with anything else, there are many ways of completing your Clydesdale installation. But only a few of those ways will allow the Clyde to achieve its best performance and give you peace of mind when your Cyde is operating. I suggest that you convince your installers that "you want the installation completed your way." After all, you are paying for the work. If they refuse, you can always find other installers.
Here are a few thoughts from a previous post that I wrote months ago. They are all pertinent but the one item about insulating your SS liner is most appropriate:
There are several conditions where "the chimney or flue may not be acceptable for woodstove, hearthstove, or fireplace insert use for a number of reasons," including:
1. absence of flue liner
2. condition of liner (cracked, broken)
3. size of flue liner (more than the maximum cross-sectional area in relation to the appliance collar size)
4. failure of chimney to meet clearances
Performance and safety can be improved with a stainless steel or poured liner system by:
1. proper sizing
2. insulation that keeps the flue gases warmer (reduced creosote and maintenance)
3. easier maintenance
4. tested temperature limits."
All of the above is quoted directly from Heart Handbook for Building Officials - Solid Fuel Hearth Systems.
I recommend that you have your installers insulate the liner from top to bottom using at least 0.5 inches of the type of insulation that is sold from such suppliers as: http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/1122/category/.5-in-Thickness-Insulation-Kits-(3in-6in-Dia).html. Or course there are many other suppliers of liner insulation. Also I recommend that you avoid the use of the "pink stuff" fiberglass insulation anywhere near your stove installation. Why? Because the "pink stuff" is not fire rated. That is not to say that many posting on this site haven't used "pink stuff" as a poor man's block off plate. See below for more information about block-off plates.
The liner insulation kits that many suppliers sell comes with a wire mesh "overcoat" and SS clamps to secure the insulation to the liner. Not to worry. If the liner insulation is installed properly, it will not fall off.
I also suggest that you install a solid block-off plate at the bottom of your terra-cotta flue, or in the area of the damper that you have removed or will remove. The block off plate will "surround" your SS liner to prevent air infiltration into the space between the top plate and the Clyde. If you read the comments of those on this site who have installed block-off plates, most will state that having the block-off plate improved stove performance.
Did you know that if you install high-performance windows in your home, that stuffing the void spaces between the window and its headers, sill, and jams with fiberglass no longer qualifies as an "Energy-Star" install? One must use either silicone sealant or low expanding foam to fill those void spaces. That is, the filler used must be solid. Fiberglass can't be used anymore because fiberglass does not prevent air infiltration. Hence the real need for a solid block-off plate.
Yes you can still use fire rated insulation like Roxul adjacent to your bottom plate and under you top place to further reduce heat loss.
The surround that came with your Clyde is purely decorative. When the surround is used in conjunction with a stone fireplace, it will not fit flush against the stone. The surround will fit "snug" against the stone, however. You will not notice any spaces when you get a few feet back from the Clyde. The surround serves no real purpose to prevent heat loss. However, you do not want to stick mortar, or any other adhesive materialI that would prevent you from accessing the liner/stove connection. If the Clyde surround is lacking for your installation due to aesthetic reasons, have you sheet metal shop modify it so that it looks better.
I recommend that you use the Vacu-Stack that you already have. It will work nicely with you 6 inch SS liner. If the Vacu-Stack that yiu now have is 7 inch or 8 inch (I don't know what sizes are available), have your sheet metal shop modify it to work with your 6 inch liner. They can work with 316 SS.
Good luck with your install...