I "liked" your post but not sure that something at 18% would result in decreased heat output, it might just burn a bit slower so that the heat isn't released as fast up front. And I don't have to open the air up that wide on the low 20s stuff, but it might hiss a bit at the start....15-20% will burn ok in my units but heat output reduced ( at this range sounds like a baseball bat but I can feel the difference when burning)
20-25% still wet behind the ears( not spiting but got to run with the primary almost wide open for a good portion of the time) only use if desperate
That Oak will really slow down once you hit the upper 20s, and won't burn well for a long time. The Maple and Locust at 18% is good. Hopefully that wasn't just a couple of splits that were drier than the rest. But it sounds like you'll probably get by OK, though.Me being a rookie an just accumulating wood this spring, I just got my $30 general yesterday, I split a round of red oak, it was at 45, I then split a split that's been split for a week. That came out at 29, I have maple and black locust that I split in march and April both reading 17 and 18. I also split a skinny piece of honey locust, I couldn't believe it was 26. So I should be fine with the maple and black locust?
When U check a split for moisture, U must split the piece first, and check it right then N there ,check it smack in the middle , if U split it and wait till the next day U will not get an accurate reading what the MC, (moisture content) is inside the piece.I just got the General MM today.. are you drilling small holes into the splits and stick the MM pointers in the hole? When I do that I get 40% on my freshly split oaks. When I just put the MM pointers against the split side I get about 20%. Big difference when I drill holes and stick the pointers in. Just wondering what is correct method to use?
To brakatak and all,
I just read the directions. It says to drill the holes to get a more accurate reading so that the tips touch inside. But that doesn't take into consideration that you are splitting the split just before you take the reading. Therefore it is the tips that are reading the MC, not the entire spike. It clearly says not to use force when trying to take a reading.
So the correct method is what HDRock said to do.....
But thanks for making me read the directions, so I know I am doing it right.....
Thanks I will be testing more in the upcoming future...I "liked" your post but not sure that something at 18% would result in decreased heat output, it might just burn a bit slower so that the heat isn't released as fast up front. And I don't have to open the air up that wide on the low 20s stuff, but it might hiss a bit at the start....
That Oak will really slow down once you hit the upper 20s, and won't burn well for a long time. The Maple and Locust at 18% is good. Hopefully that wasn't just a couple of splits that were drier than the rest. But it sounds like you'll probably get by OK, though.
I push in hard to, with the HF unit, and I have used it a lot , nothing has brokenI just push the pointed pins in hard, no need to drill holes with the HF unit.
I have noticed a difference of a couple % between pushing in moderately hard and very hard (1/8" to 1/4"), but sometimes it made no difference at all.I push in hard to, with the HF unit, and I have used it a lot , nothing has broken
Don't forget that drying time depends on factors like species, climate, covered or not, etc. Last season I burned 20-25%alder that was less than a year old. But I also have some big leaf maple that is still 35% after more than a year. I don't know if I'll ever burn that stuff. Oak is notoriously slow, as are others. Splitting small can make a huge difference.I wish I was three years ahead.
I only started burning full time 2 winters ago.
The wood I'll be burning this winter will only be just under 2 years old.
NOW, I do have enough drying that will get into the 3 year dry bracket in about 2 more years.
Then I'll be coasting real fine.
Sprinter, you better get with the program and get some 17% stuff.....Don't forget that drying time depends on factors like species, climate, covered or not, etc. Last season I burned 20-25%alder that was less than a year old. But I also have some big leaf maple that is still 35% after more than a year. I don't know if I'll ever burn that stuff. Oak is notoriously slow, as are others. Splitting small can make a huge difference.
I "liked" your post but not sure that something at 18% would result in decreased heat output, it might just burn a bit slower so that the heat isn't released as fast up front. And I don't have to open the air up that wide on the low 20s stuff, but it might hiss a bit at the start....
But his point was that 18% is in the prime range for firewood and not enough moisture to be an issue.As the MC goes up, more of the heat is used to boil water, which then goes up the stack. This results in less heat output from the stove. If you want heat, use dry wood. If you want to boil water, use a tea kettle.
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