Requesting Small Stove Recommendation

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Start splitting and stacking wood, like yesterday! :cool:

No matter which stove you have, it will want dry wood! _g
 
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Welcome to the forum.
Woodstock also offers refurbished stoves. Most are returns from their 6 month satisfaction guaranty that have been rebuilt, look new inside and out, new cat, with a full structural warranty. I got my refurb Keystone delivered last year for ~$1800. Its perfect for my situation. 12 hr burns that don't overheat the house on mild days, 8 hr reloads during single digit nights. Cat maintenance is a breeze. Customer support is awesome. Parts are cheap.
How is your wood supply? If you've read may posts, you know that DRY wood is very important to EPA stoves. Depending on species (oak) don't plan on your standing dead trees to be DRY.
 
Thanks for tip on Woodstock suitability and refurbished availability. Will definitely look into it... Should we just use propane this winter and save the stove purchase for next year when wood is drier? There has been a serious drought here for 2-3 years. Guess I will have to check moisture content. Will burning less dry wood screw up the stove if we use it until we can get drier wood?
 
If you decide to look at steel stoves, some people here have the EPA certified Vogelzang stoves and like them. Sutherland's over in Shreveport advertises the Vogelzang Shiloh for $499.

http://sutherlands.com/products/product.php?item=8323313#.Uh38dn_y2KI

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If you cut some dead standing trees with the bark falling off, the upper portions may be pretty dry (more so with non-Oak.) You will still have great drying weather for a while to finish off any wood you get split that is close to being dry. Single rows with lots of air dry the fastest. Small deads will be pretty dry. Stuff already on the ground may be dry.

Could you trade a neighbor who has a lot of wood that's been stacked for a while? How about raiding Dad's woodpile? ==c
 
If you cut some dead standing trees with the bark falling off, the upper portions may be pretty dry (more so with non-Oak.) You will still have great drying weather for a while to finish off any wood you get split that is close to being dry. Single rows with lots of air dry the fastest. Small deads will be pretty dry. Stuff already on the ground may be dry.

Could you trade a neighbor who has a lot of wood that's been stacked for a while? How about raiding Dad's woodpile? ==c
If you do end up burning less than perfect wood, don't be too discouraged with the results. Just know that next year will be better. :)
 
An advantage of the little VZ stove is pretty close clearances and floor protection requirements.
 
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Yep, that's the same reason I suggested the 17VL.

How do you intend to burn in the stove Agnes? Will you be mostly burning chill chasers on cold days or do you want to heat 24/7 for as many days as possible in the winter? The Englander 17VL, Jotul F100 will not heat for more than about 4-6 hrs without refilling. Another slightly larger stove is the Morso 2110 that would be a good fit here. All of these stoves will put out good heat. The Woodstock Keystone is a very nice stove that is more meant to be burnt 24/7. It is a catalytic stove so there will be an additional step of waiting until the stove gets the cat hot, then engaging the bypass. There are some restriction on what can be burnt in a cat stove too, but nothing onerous. In operation the advantage of the Keystone is that it can do a low, slow burn without polluting. It is also a very nice looking stove.

PS: Welcome!
 
Thanks. I am touched that you would send me shopping links. and will look at all of them, in between cleaning spider webs out of closets.

They won't have a refurb Woodstock until next spring, and sale price is $2434.

Dad cuts his wood every fall and uses it for that winter! I won't try to tell him. We have only been here for 10 days, just getting started with woodcutting, but, trust me, I'm a perfectionist and take your wood aging comments seriously.

Thanks, Aggie
 
If you do end up burning less than perfect wood, don't be too discouraged with the results. Just know that next year will be better. :)
If I was going to scavenge dry wood, I can't think of a better place than Texas to do it. Any solid branches that have been lying around in the wind and sun for a while have got to be bone-dry, and probably no rot to be found.

Aggie, you can get a moisture meter at Harbor Freight or Lowe's to help you sort through the stuff you get now, but you'll soon begin to develop a feel for how heavy the different species are when they're dry....
 
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Always test for moisture on a freshly split face of the wood, not on the end grain or outside surface of an unsplit round.
 
I have a country hearth 2000 that i like for a smaller area.Its EPA rated and was only $499 in mid season from TSC. Dont buy it from HD as they want $939. Its got a 2000 SF rating but i would think that much space would have to be insulated. IT would do 1000SF ver nicely though. Throws an incredible amount of heat from a small amount of wood. Stovetop shoots right to 500+ on start up. The only thing im not sure of is if it would go overnight as its only a 2.0 CUft firebox but the clearances are close and its got a heat shield on the back and comes with an adjustable blower fan.
 
It sounds like your climate is pretty mild, your 1000 sf home well insulated. You say that you don't mind letting the stove go out at night and can tend the stove during the day. That's a scenario for a quite small stove like the Englander 17VL and similar.

One limitation of those smaller stoves is that you need to watch your wood length. But if you are going to be cutting your own and not buying from suppliers, then that wouldn't be a problem.

Yes, moisture content is important. Try to get some cut asap and test for moisture content. Up to 25% should be okay. 20% is ideal. If it's more than about 25, then you may need to supplement that wood with a manufactured product like "biobricks", or pallet wood, etc in each load. There are ways of handling that problem, but it is an important factor.
 
Country Hearth 2000 is on my list, and Tractor Supply is the closest chain store. Will check 17VL also.

Thanks for wood tips.

Now, because this is turning into an everything-Aggie-and-wood thread, may I ask about installation here? We went to the local stove store, and they cater to folks who don't worry about money. We have had a local handyman recommended who has installed other wood stoves. My better half has installed several stoves, but in barns and cabins, and he can pretty much make anything work. Do we need a certified installer to do this, or can the two of them handle it? It needs a chimney (none there now) through a metal roof.
 
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Country Hearth 2000 is on my list, and Tractor Supply is the closest chain store. Will check 17VL also.

Thanks for wood tips.

Now, because this is turning into an everything-Aggie-and-wood thread, may I ask about installation here? We went to the local stove store, and they cater to folks who don't worry about money. We have had a local handyman recommended who has installed other wood stoves. My better half has installed several stoves, but in barns and cabins, and he can pretty much make anything work. Do we need a certified installer to do this, or can the two of them handle it? It needs a chimney (none there now) through a metal roof.
Be aware that insurance companies can be very insistent about professional installations if that is a concern.

True, it can be done DIY, but I think doing it right is just too important and having a certified sweep/installer wouldn't be that much more expensive.
 
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If hubby is handy and doesn't take shortcuts, this can be done. But if he tends to rush and not pay attention to details you would be better off having a pro do it. This is infrastructure. It must be done correctly and meet or exceed mfg. and code requirements. Check with your insurance co. to see what they require.
 
If the insurance says it is fine as long as it passes inspection and if hubby is willing to tackle the install, we can help. Just tell him this is not like driving around in a strange area. When in doubt, stop and ask for directions! Good planning will make for a successful install.
 
You mentioned the lil Drolet Pyropak. I can't find where Ace Hardware offers the 17-VL, though they show the rest of the Englander line, but they do show the Pyropak as available for free ship to your local store. For $619. If they can get the 17-VL it would be a really good one for ya. And close to pick up.
 
Country Hearth 2000 is on my list, and Tractor Supply is the closest chain store. Will check 17VL also.

f.
They also sell the 2500 and 3000 for those thinking the 2000 is too small. I really like the look of the series mostly the front door which is arched and very wide. The whole stove is nicely proportioned (the 2000) As opposed to my englander which is just square and plain. Gives a nice fire show but a bit low to the floor . I got mine elevated 8 " off the floor but will be going 16 before this winter heating season starts. Same with my englander.
 
The size of stove your looking at will be hard to get an all night burn. When going small if you have the extra money a stove with a cat will burn longer and at lower settings so it wont over heat you in the room your in. The soapstone stoves also absorb the spike in the heat cycle and stores that heat and lets it off after the stove has died down giving you heat over a longer period. Soapstone heat is a more even heat better for small houses plus with a cat makes it even better to set it at a real low setting since your down there farther south than alot of people.
 
The size of stove your looking at will be hard to get an all night burn. When going small if you have the extra money a stove with a cat will burn longer and at lower settings so it wont over heat you in the room your in.
A cat stove may be out of range for the budget.
 
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