Non Pressurized Storage...

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Inside the tank I installed two pieces of copper across the tank, they sit at about 32" off the floor. I have headroom issues above the tank since it is in the basement, so I will compress the coil, open it up once it is inside the tank, and use copper wire to suspend the coil off the two copper pipes. The support pipes will also serve as a base to support the upper exchanger...
 
Got half a day in today, there will be two thermometers, one high, one low, here is the upper.

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The walls of the tank are 3-1/2" thick before insulation, the bulkhead fitting I found could not accommodate that thickness, so I removed about 1-1/2" of wood from the outside of tank, here are the parts.

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I have a couple of concerns, the bulkheads are stamped Epdm...so the water temp should be OK, The thermo well is stainless, so I will be threading plastic to metal at the most vulnerable point...Teflon tape and crossed fingers, any suggestions? Also I purchased some high temp silicone, should I run a bead behind the rubber gasket or just trust the bulkhead gasket as it comes...
 
The top right side of the tank must have openings for 6 pipes to pass, I notched the lid at the same locations so the lid will remove after hookup...

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Was not comfortable threading stainless to plastic, so I found some transistion pieces at Grainger, ordered them today, will post photo when they come...I installed a bulkhead fitting today, used liquid Teflon on the thread, and backed up the rubber gasket with a small bead of high temp sealant...made a special tool to tighten the fitting...
 
Getting close..feels like it anyway..this is my Splurge, serves no real purpose that I am aware of, but I saw it in my Grainger catalog and figured it would be cool mounted above the tank somewhere..

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I think I mentioned I had a condition that had me threading plastic to stainless, I was not happy with that option. I found a transistion fitting, it looks nicely made.

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I have three penetrations, I did everything I could with them, I ran my cement coating up to them after tightening them down and using a thin layer a gasket sealer on the rubber gasket. Finally I ran a bead of high temp silicone around the housing...

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I pressure tested the home made HX section with air, then water, I had two small leaks, repaired them, and placed it in the tank..
 
Then disaster struck..LOL...my plumber buddy showed up yesterday about 9 AM, we started running copper and gazing at the situation not 100% certain of what had to be done. About noon we where all tied in, pressurized the system, no leaks...THOUGHT we where home free, while bleeding the system we used the water to begin filling the tank, inch by inch, the tank held tough. Half way up, it's about 5 o'clock by now, dinner time. We have a quick meal, go back downstairs, 3/4 full, looking good, almost at the top...Tank Leak...panick mode., 2 hours later tank drained down, about 15 gallons hit the floor, shop vac, nightmare...finished cleanup about 9, passed out about 9:15. Woke up regrouped, short version , the entire tank has a steel frame welded, except the Bottom. The bottom was built out of wood sandwiched 1-1/2" foam, solid but wood, I created a lip that the walls slid into, then screwed from the sides.. Then concrete floor, coating, etc...I think as the weight of 400 gallons started to bear down, very slight settling / compression, occurred in the base, this settling caused a very slight separation between the floor and walls..i have to remove the exchangers, get in, and take a close look, from the top everything looks perfect, but there has to be a crack, it was leaking out pretty good..What to do now, because I hated the look of just shoving in a EPDM liner, I opted for a cement based coating, the coating did not have enough elasticity...I have two options as I see it, but I am open to suggestions. There are a few liquid EPDM products out there, this would be the easiest..Coat and go, there are also a few companies that will weld up a custom EPDM liner to fit the tank...not sure which way to go yet, the custom liner sounds safer..I am tired but not beaten, Happy Holidays, it's going to be near 70, who needs storage anyway..LOL
 
Getting ready for round two, drained the tank, got in, found several small hairline cracks in the bottom coating. Not 100% certain what caused the crack, 1000's of pounds of water bearing down on the bottom had something to do with it..LOL. One of my suspicions is when I meshed the corners, maybe I left air under the mesh, (Bridging) any hollow behind the mesh and coating would failed. Also , in the base I sandwiched 1-1/2" foam, maybe some compression, not sure. The tank is now dried out, everything looks perfect on the walls, so to treat the hairlines around the joint I am going to run a coating of Gluvit, not sure if anyone has used Gluvit it's a pretty amazing waterproof product. After that sets up Sherwin Williams has a line of commercial coatings, I will coat the entire tank again, Fingers crossed, this time I will fill and test the tank prior to installing HX again...
 
Almost ready to go again, even though I will be confident in the tank I did want some insurance, 450 gallons in a finished space would not be good..I am hooking up an exterior pump 1500 gallons per hour. On the floor there will be two water sensors, if they get wet, the pump will go on and empty the tank...PVC / check valve/ it's a contraption, I will be testing it soon..
 
I haven't read this whole thread but if these waterproof coatings you're using are rigid rather than flexible you'll probably be going through this exercise again. Tough as they are, they don't like numerous temperature changes. I would use a sprayable silicone rubber coating.
 
I used to use various resilient industrial based tank liner coatings at work. Very few are rated for active movement that will hold up to the temps.

Lot to be said for Tom in Maine's PVC liners as long as you don't have any sidewall penetrations. Given your setup I don't know if he can help you but when it comes to heat storage tanks he has probably tried its all.
 
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