Install Finally Finished...

[Fivehorizons88]

Well, it took some time but the stove is finally installed. It was a huge pain getting the stove in place, mostly because it was only me maneuvering and lifting the stove (my body is killing me today). I decided to jack up the stove and install the legs instead of setting it on bricks as the previous owner had done - this brought the height of the stove up, but at least it is how its supposed to be.I do wish that I could have gotten the connection to sit a bit straighter in the stove collar, but it is very tight (see picture) and the entire area is tight to work with in general.

Also, I know that the top of the stove is too close to the start of my mantel piece - I honestly think i'm just going to cut that portion of the mantel to give it the necessary clearance.

Regardless, I did a test fire last night and everything went well - no leaks, good draft, long burn, and I really did notice a difference with the added insulation. Before bed, I had a hot bed of coals and when I woke up this morning the stove was still warm. Last year, if I let that happen the stove would have been cold already.

Obviously the stove is not an ideal set up, but it works for me for now. Maybe in a year or two I'll take it out and just have the stove free standing with standard stove pipe setup.

Thank you for all the help and advice! Any other suggestions or comments are appreciated.

 

[jatoxico]

That doesn't look bad, I like a free stander in the fireplace. Clean up the brick and ash it will be a nice looking install. Without knowing your exact clearances and all I think I'd put a metal heat shield instead of cutting the mantel.

 

[Squisher]

I agree check if you can get away with a small metal heat shield on the bottom of the mantel before cutting it up.

Congrats on the install. Looks great!

 

[Fivehorizons88]

Thanks guys! I'll have to look into the heat shield idea - I'm not sure really what they look like but i'll look some up!

 

[jatoxico]

Some attach to the actual mantel to actually shield and protect the wood others are more like deflectors directing the heat away. In your case a deflector running right along or attached to the bottom of the lintel might look the least obtrusive.

 

[Simonkenton]

Looking good! I did a heat shield in an install exactly like yours. I got a piece of steel roofing. Galvanized steel. I soaked it in vinegar for 10 minutes, this causes the zinc to oxidize so then you can paint it. Painted it flat black with high temp muffler paint.

I fastened it to the mantel, in the back I used 3 inch screws, so that, it stuck down 2 1/2 inches.
In front used on inch screws, so it stuck down 1/2 inch. So, a minimum of 1/2 inch between the shield and the mantel.
The shield is on an angle, it angles up from the back, so that the heat will flow evenly up, and around the front of the mantel.

Painted black you just don't notice it, doesn't look bad you hardly notice it.

 

[Fivehorizons88]

Looking good! I did a heat shield in an install exactly like yours. I got a piece of steel roofing. Galvanized steel. I soaked it in vinegar for 10 minutes, this causes the zinc to oxidize so then you can paint it. Painted it flat black with high temp muffler paint.

I fastened it to the mantel, in the back I used 3 inch screws, so that, it stuck down 2 1/2 inches.
In front used on inch screws, so it stuck down 1/2 inch. So, a minimum of 1/2 inch between the shield and the mantel.
The shield is on an angle, it angles up from the back, so that the heat will flow evenly up, and around the front of the mantel.

Painted black you just don't notice it, doesn't look bad you hardly notice it.

My question is, where do I put the heat shield - I have trim, panel and then the 5inch deep mantel - see attached image.

 

[Simonkenton]

I see your problem. That trim is what, about 12 inches high? Not quite sure how I would install a shield there. You can imagine if you had only the mantel and no trim you could easily install the shield beneath the mantel.

 

[Fivehorizons88]

I see your problem. That trim is what, about 12 inches high? Not quite sure how I would install a shield there. You can imagine if you had only the mantel and no trim you could easily install the shield beneath the mantel.

Exactly - it starts about 10 inches above the top of the stove and the trim only sticks out about an inch. I might try installing something at the lintel like jatoxico had suggested. Just trying to figure out how to secure it.

 

[begreen]

I think I would attach the mantel shield to the underside of the fireplace lintel. Maybe it could be held in place with some strong magnets? It would only have to protrude a few inches and could be painted black.

 

[jatoxico]

Hadn't thought of magnets, that could work. If you end up with shield material that is too thick any heavy for that you could prob use high temp silicone to glue it in place or drill and use a tap con. A lot of options depending if you add some tabs to the side or back.

 

[Fivehorizons88]

I think I would attach the mantel shield to the underside of the fireplace lintel. Maybe it could be held in place with some strong magnets? It would only have to protrude a few inches and could be painted black.

good idea! the heat shield should have an angle to it, to redirect the heat out, correct?

 

[begreen]

Given the shallowness of the mantel I think flat would be ok, but it wouldn't hurt to give it a little angle at the end.

 

[Fivehorizons88]

So i had some strong magnets I brought home from work but they did not hold up to do the job. I ended up using two old wood stove fire bricks, placed them on top of the stove and then set my heat shield on top of the bricks. It is not the prettiest set up but hopefully It is only temporary until I figure out another way. I think it worked well though, the wood trim reached about 115 degrees at most, which I didn't think was horrible. It was still comfortable to the touch.

 

[Fivehorizons88]

Any suggestions on the heat shield is welcomed - leave it as is or make a permanent setup?

 

[Fivehorizons88]

Given the shallowness of the mantel I think flat would be ok, but it wouldn't hurt to give it a little angle at the end.

any more thoughts on this? I might just buy some of those ceramic spacers and attach the shield to the bottom of the mantel. I don't mind my temporary setup because I can take it down when the stove is not in use but i'm guessing those fire bricks do transfer a lot of hear to the metal shield. thanks!

 

[mol1jb]

The setup you have is nicely inconspicuous. I would just attach it to the lintel with a sheet metal screw on each side. I would pre drill each hole. Easy to attach and remove if you wanted to in off season.

 

[Fivehorizons88]

The setup you have is nicely inconspicuous. I would just attach it to the lintel with a sheet metal screw on each side. I would pre drill each hole. Easy to attach and remove if you wanted to in off season.

Thanks for your suggestion - I will probably end up doing that. The lintel metal seems like pretty thick stuff but i'll see if I can pre-drill it to make it easier.

 

[begreen]

Yes, that's what I would do too. It will be unobtrusive and look more finished.

 

[Fivehorizons88]

Yes, that's what I would do too. It will be unobtrusive and look more finished.

ok thanks, do I need to put ceramic spacers between the lintel and the shield? Also, this is probably a loaded question but what temp should the mantel be with the shield? Right now the stove is running at 450 and the IR gun is telling me the wood trim is around 135 degrees.

 

[jatoxico]

ok thanks, do I need to put ceramic spacers between the lintel and the shield? Also, this is probably a loaded question but what temp should the mantel be with the shield? Right now the stove is running at 450 and the IR gun is telling me the wood trim is around 135 degrees.

No spacers. Let it stick out far enough to deflect the heat out and away. How hot the mantel can get isn't an easy answer (I don't think). I recall some here have said allowable is 100 deg above room temp. Ignition temp of wood is much higher but the repeated heating of wood lowers its auto ignition temp.

 

[Fivehorizons88]

Yes, that's what I would do too. It will be unobtrusive and look more finished.

ok thanks, do I need to put ceramic spacers between the lintel and the shield? Also, this is probably a loaded question but what temp should the mantel be with the shield? Right now the stove is running at 450 and the IR gun is telling me the wood trim is around 135 degrees.

No spacers. Let it stick out far enough to deflect the heat out and away. How hot the mantel can get isn't an easy answer (I don't think). I recall some here have said allowable is 100 deg above room temp. Ignition temp of wood is much higher but the repeated heating of wood lowers its auto ignition temp.

Yeah, that is what I figured. Its strange because I was testing different parts of the wood with my IR gun and i was getting some weird readings. Underneath the wood trim, It was reading a round 120 degrees, right above the trim piece on the wood panel It was also reading 120 degrees, but on the actual piece of trim that is rounded and sticks out it read around 170 degrees. I'm not sure what is causing that temperature to spike there when it is only less than inch apart from the other areas. (see image)

 

[jatoxico]

It was also reading 120 degrees, but on the actual piece of trim that is rounded and sticks out it read around 170 degrees. I'm not sure what is causing that temperature to spike there when it is only less than inch apart from the other areas. (see image)

My guess would be that the flue collar/outlet, being right behind there, is a very hot spot and is heating up the brick from behind then the wood. Along with that you have the hottest air coming off right there. Shoot the bricks, most likely the ones in center are warmest and get cooler on the ends.

 

[Fivehorizons88]

My guess would be that the flue collar/outlet, being right behind there, is a very hot spot and is heating up the brick from behind then the wood. Along with that you have the hottest air coming off right there. Shoot the bricks, most likely the ones in center are warmest and get cooler on the ends.

Yah you are probably right - not really sure what I can do about that..

 

[jatoxico]

I don't recall was it you that insulated and installed a block-off plate? If not that would help some.