The subject fireplace is a steel heat circulating firebox set in a traditional masonry block chase with clay lined brick chimney set on top. Is there a way to identify it and know which models will fit, if any? Seems to be very little web info on these old prefabs. Just a few old illustrations is all I can find.
Looking for info on inserts for a 1970's era steel prefab firebox?
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If it's just a Heatilator-style prefab, the only thing limiting you is dimensions. I put an insert in one of our prefab fireplaces. You typically have to cut some of the steel out at the top to get the liner through.
There are some heatform style fireplaces from that era that are no longer sold. Measure up the interior of the fireplace for H-W- front and rear and depth Top and Bottom and post the dimensions.
Also, how large an area will the insert be heating? Will this be 24/7 or occasional/supplemental burning?
Also, how large an area will the insert be heating? Will this be 24/7 or occasional/supplemental burning?
My brother is making an offer on the house this weekend. I did notice that the back wall of the steel firebox is warped inward somewhat. The fireplace is in the basement of a 1000 ft/sq ranch. Use will be 24/7 most likely. With these, is the clay liner supported by the firebox? Being that the walls and floor are basement/concrete, Im thinking a stove like the Regency (just an example) that sticks mostly out onto the brick hearth. That would give more heat output Im thinking? One thing I noticed when we were inspecting the house is that the brick chimney barely reached the peak of the roof and is probably 5 feet away. I told him we will need to extend the chimney up another 3' or so if installing a stove.
If the walls are uninsulated he'll need a decent sized insert. Is the whole house 1000 sq ft or just them main floor + another 1000 sq ft basement?
Its basically a top plate. The bottom portion has a bandclamp and a collar to accept the liner and the top portion has a collar to accept the class a pipe and you screw the pipe to it. The top plate flange is very large and usually needs to be trimmed down. Its also very thick and stainless so expect to use a lennox diamond 4.5" grinder cutting wheel. I usually cut the flue tile flush to the crown splash and imbed the adaptor in mortar as well as a couple inches of the class a pipe in order to keep it from moving in the future. One of the chimney supplys may also make this adaptor as a terricotta mount with set screws but i havent used that kind. Usually connecting the liner is a little bit of a pain. Definitely helps to have two people
Avalon olympic is a good 3 cuft insert. The depth the insert can stick out is adjustable. Its a very good non cat insert with bypass damper. Good quality workhorse insert.
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Usually the backwall and the damper will need to be cut out a little bit. Sometimes that warp in the backwall will need to be removed in order to accomadate the insert. Make sure you follow manufactures instructions.ive also removed entire heatforms to get more room as long as theres enough masonry behind the firebox. the one like u have isnt that bad. The ones with tubes above the opening are more difficult usually.
I would would call travis to make sure. I just installed one probably a month ago but we were getting rid of what we had in invetory cause the company i was working for was dropping that line. but if thats the case the freedom is very similar. Also some good inserts are the enviro Kodiak, boston and venice in 1700 form. They are identical in terms of firebox to eachother.
Travis has discontinued the Avalon line. Just Lopis now. The Lopi equivalent of this stove is the Freedom. Ask around though, you may find a dealer trying to get rid of old stock for a good price.
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