Whitfield Combustion Issues

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ggrantly

New Member
Dec 24, 2011
9
Washington, the state
Hello to the Forum, my first post.

I've owned an Advantage + for about 14 years and for the most part, it has worked pretty well. I replaced the controller (all button type) about five years ago. Two years ago, I did a fix on the infamous leaking pellet drive which has fixed a real design problem between the auger and the gear box. Now, I have a new problem and need some advice. I searched the archives and found some great information about the control and combustion motor in general.

We usually run on heat setting 2 or 3 for several days at a time and after a cool down, vacuum out anything we can get to. Presently the stove starts up and runs normally for some period of time, usually an hour or so. Then, the flame goes wonky, the combustion fan slows, and all the controller lights blink for a minute or so. The system then comes out of its torpor, and resumes normal operation for a few minutes or more, then repeats with the sag routine. If I crank the pellet rate up to 4-5, things run normally with no weirdness.

When this started recently, I did a very thorough cleaning and combustion motor lube, and the symptoms disappeared for a few days, but have now returned. I am going to lube the motor one more time and futz about before I consider replacement of either the motor or controller.

Obviously there is a voltage drop from the controller, or the motor is dragging. What are the blinking controller lights telling me if anything? Is there troubleshooting info on the blinking lights?

Is there a resistance reading for the combustion motor?

What is running voltage range for the combustion motor? I assume if the motor is failing, that a low voltage condition would exist due to increased draw, so would read lower than normal?

Thanks in advance for any wisdom on this.

Grant
 
No, never have used a surge protector, and I probably should. Good advice. I am beginning to think it is the board also. However, as of now, the problem is intermittent so a bit perplexing. Just lit the stove off an hour ago and turned the combustion fan pot up a bit. Presently getting 88v on setting 3 and 80v on setting two. The burn looks much more healthy. Haven't had a torpor incident yet today, but of course I am watching so the stove is afraid to misbehave....

thanks,
Grant
 
When the torpor incidents occur, the fan(s) drag and the controller lights all blink in unison for a few moments. haven't noticed the auger situation yet. Then, it heals itself for a few minutes and repeat. If I switch to a higher heat setting, like 4, it doesn't seem to happen = higher motor voltage. As much as this would seem to be a controller issue, if the combustion motor were failing and drawing extra current, it might make the controller go wonky. If the motor is fed extra voltage, like since I upped the combustion pot, maybe the motor doesn't drag as much. Just thinking out loud here. I used to be a Webasto dealer and we were always trouble shooting weird stuff like this. In the last five years, most of the micro processor controls are so much better, giving error codes and the like.

Grant
 
What controller did you have before and what one do you have know.

My first whitfield (Little older then what you have) have the analog controller with a switch and two knobs to control the feed and fan speed. The replacement was a tough pad unit with trim adjustments. When the first controller gave up the ghost, it acted much like your describing.

Snowy Rivers on this forum might have some advice for a DIY repair of the controller.
 
Yes I found Snowy's post about the mod for the combustion fan; seems pretty easy and I would probably go that route before buying a new controller.

I have always had the touchpad controller with adjustable pots for fan and pellet feed.

Thanks,
Grant
 
The draft fan and the room air fan speeds are controlled using a "TRIAC" that is regulated via the heat range setting.

If the draft fan speed is dropping off, one of two things is likely happening.
The fan motor is going south or the Triac is dieing.

Have you lubricated the draft fan motor recently. There are two rubber plugs on the fan motor, remove them and drip in a couple drops of High temp oil in each little tube. Reinstall the plugs

If this does not help the fan issue, try wiring the draft fan directly to a power cord and plugging it in.

If the fan runs fine then the control board is heading south.

Snowy
 
Thanks Snowy,

That's is about where I was at in my own diagnostic. I gave the motor a pretty good blast of turbine oil after a thorough cleaning. After cranking up the combustion pot a few volts, my burn is improved and I haven't had a incident since. Thought I would go AC direct to the combustion fan next. I did a static ohm test on the motor and it was 18ohms, which matches the notes I found on a marked up schematic. If that diagnostic is correct, then if there is a problem with the motor, it would likely be failing bushings. There isn't much to go wrong with a little induction motor.

Question: Any idea about the "in unison" blinking lights on the controller when the incidents occured? Is the controller giving me a diagnostic error message, or is it having a meltdown?

Thanks,
Grant
 
The blinking lights is probably not a good omen.

Touch pad control >????

Snowy
 
Grant,

Slowing or stalling blowers have been known to eventually take out the triacs on control boards.
 
X2

The triacs can go sour and wipe out the motors and the motors can wipe out the triacs.

Whitfield had issues back in the early days with boards failing.

Overall, IMHO the components were just a tad CHEEEEZY and resulted in the issues.

The draft fan on these stoves runs around 2500 RPM with slight variations for the lower feed rates.

Free run speed at line voltage is 3000 RPM

I have set mine up to run at full line voltage and simply compensated using the draft control.

Taking the triac out of the draft fan circuit was not at all a bad thing.

These little fan mototrs do get a pretty brutal workout considering the heat that they have to deal with.

When you run these things 24 hrs a day as some of us do, and do it for many months on end, it is no wonder that things wear out.

Keep an eye on things, a fresh draft fan may be a good investment.

I am going to replace my fan and auger motor after this season, or at least stock in some fresh parts.

Good luck

Snowy
 
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