1) give it more air?
Please chime in as this puppy looks headed towards a hot number tonight ...
2) pray?
Please chime in as this puppy looks headed towards a hot number tonight ...
2) pray?
when it seems you are gonna overfire what do you do?
- Thread starter iceman
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1. Close the air down fully.
2. Remove a layer of clothing.
3. Close the stove pipe damper.
4. Open the damper then open the stove door and stay in attendance w/ the stove as cool air rushes in. I'd also consider using the tongs if I could safely move the logs in a less than optimal burn pattern.
5. Close things back up and if it doesn't behave I'd be shoving aluminum foil over the air intakes.
Never actually had to go to step 4 here. I've heard others put a wet log in but I'm not big on that idea personally. Same goes for a wet newspaper, may work, but I don't like it.
How hot we talking?
pen
2. Remove a layer of clothing.
3. Close the stove pipe damper.
4. Open the damper then open the stove door and stay in attendance w/ the stove as cool air rushes in. I'd also consider using the tongs if I could safely move the logs in a less than optimal burn pattern.
5. Close things back up and if it doesn't behave I'd be shoving aluminum foil over the air intakes.
Never actually had to go to step 4 here. I've heard others put a wet log in but I'm not big on that idea personally. Same goes for a wet newspaper, may work, but I don't like it.
How hot we talking?
pen
I say "Good grief. Not again.". And go get a beer and sit on the couch and ride it out. And curse the Florida Bungalow Syndrome.
I have also just swung the door wide open and cooled it down pretty quick. It is intimidating because you are looking a load of burning wood in the face and if the stuff up top is rolling hard you may lose a few eyelashes when you first open it. Before you open it pull the primary air all the way open to break the vacuum in the secondary air system.
Then curse EBT.
I have also just swung the door wide open and cooled it down pretty quick. It is intimidating because you are looking a load of burning wood in the face and if the stuff up top is rolling hard you may lose a few eyelashes when you first open it. Before you open it pull the primary air all the way open to break the vacuum in the secondary air system.
Then curse EBT.
blower on full, air open full and door open. Cools down in 10 minutes or so.
edit: don't leave unattended.
edit: don't leave unattended.
Stove is full ... Got hot quick it really gusty outside... It's all the way closed
Bottom half of the window is turning black as it hot do quick I turned it down before I normally would
Front of the insert is already at 800
Loaded about 815 pm stove temp was 350ish
I know part of it is there are some small splits mixed with.medium all 3+ yr old oak
Bottom half of the window is turning black as it hot do quick I turned it down before I normally would
Front of the insert is already at 800
Loaded about 815 pm stove temp was 350ish
I know part of it is there are some small splits mixed with.medium all 3+ yr old oak
Loading at 350 you may have been on a pretty sizeable load of coals. Make sure you are raking the coals towards the air intake and not out flat. If they are out flat, they can get the whole load going quicker. Up in one area, it's less likely to get away on you.
Now that you are in the pretty darn hot category, time to try something (or nothing). Choice is yours! Let us know how you do and perhaps what you'll do next time in retrospect.
Good luck (puckering rear in support).
pen
Now that you are in the pretty darn hot category, time to try something (or nothing). Choice is yours! Let us know how you do and perhaps what you'll do next time in retrospect.
Good luck (puckering rear in support).
pen
Door open and air open is the only way to get cold air in. Otherwise get a bucket of water and start pulling out splits (makes a steamy, smelly mess). Closing it down at that temp and that much wood is going to get it hotter
woodmiser
Feeling the Heat
Lol I took BB advice, got a becks light/ water..(xmas gift) hit 825 or so and now back down to 725 ish
The smaller splits have broken apart and the bigger ones underneath are starting up now so my guess is once it gets more airspace it will go back up but I know its not going over 800
Just checked again up to 750
I think its the winds cause they are ripping through here! What a weather year for western mass
The smaller splits have broken apart and the bigger ones underneath are starting up now so my guess is once it gets more airspace it will go back up but I know its not going over 800
Just checked again up to 750
I think its the winds cause they are ripping through here! What a weather year for western mass
Anyone have a IR? And a stove thermo? Just curious as my IR goes to about 600 then higher it say OH well thermo say 700+ and IR says 589 shot it through the window and reads OH ... Now I am wondering if 2 therms or the IR is off ?
woodmiser
Feeling the Heat
BrotherBart said:
I've done it 2 or3 times while burning the crazy dry beech and sweet gum. It basically acts like a snuffer. Almost immediate results. Cools right down but since it's so hot it doesn't create a lingering problem. I was using short wet splits so I knew there would be room for one. You just have to be careful.. gloves mandatory and watch out for stuff flying out.
I no longer have had to deal with that problem since that wood has been relegated to kindling and starter wood.
iceman... the IR you bought probably stops at 600. You have to watch that when purchasing the cheap ones.
I have an IR and a stove thermometer on the top. The magnetic thermometer is surprisingly accurate when the temp is between 600-800F, glass is colder than the steel and the brass door is a few hundred degrees colder. I start to pucker when it goes over 750F, had it up to 900F with a faint glow on a load of soft maple. I sat with blower on high on the edge of my seat but it came down. One thing that scares me is when it gets real hot it seems to be on auto pilot and does not come down quickly.
I checked the door gaskets and the pass the dollar test. I do have double doors and there is no gasket between the doors, so I may be leaking there. Anyone have any ideas if I can put a thin bead of high temp silicon to seal between them?
I checked the door gaskets and the pass the dollar test. I do have double doors and there is no gasket between the doors, so I may be leaking there. Anyone have any ideas if I can put a thin bead of high temp silicon to seal between them?
Well its 5am stove is at 500 ... Guess its all in a nights work for a summit?
Oldspark, ... When the stove was 800 with secondaries going, it didn't seem hot...
Nothing was glowing inside or out... But when I have given it more air and it was full of flames at 700 it was like you couldn't come within 6 ft of it!
Oldspark, ... When the stove was 800 with secondaries going, it didn't seem hot...
Nothing was glowing inside or out... But when I have given it more air and it was full of flames at 700 it was like you couldn't come within 6 ft of it!
I have had some "Pause and Reflect" moments learning the 30 this year. :smirk:
The open door thing works but it is friggin scary as hell.
The best thing I have found for me is just to turn the blower on low and usually the stove top temp drops about a hundred degrees in a few minutes.
The open door thing works but it is friggin scary as hell.
The best thing I have found for me is just to turn the blower on low and usually the stove top temp drops about a hundred degrees in a few minutes.
jharkin
Minister of Fire
Definately a major operating difference between cat and non-cat stoves when it comes to cooling it off. I know if I add a cold split, even a massive cold round, to an overheat situation in the Encore it will more likely make things worse.... at high temps it only takes minutes for the new log to start smoking and outgassing and all that excess smoke just floods the catalytic element sending its temp off the chart.
What we do here is open the bypass damper and let it dump excess heat up the flue. But of course that only works on a catalytic stove that has a bypass damper.
What we do here is open the bypass damper and let it dump excess heat up the flue. But of course that only works on a catalytic stove that has a bypass damper.
Treacherous
Minister of Fire
HotCoals
Minister of Fire
It will bring the "thermometers" down..no doubt.Treacherous said:
But I doubt it's slowing your fire much.
Treacherous
Minister of Fire
Actually I can watch it bring the flue temps down with the double wall probe so this would seem to indicate that firebox temps are going down as well.
HotCoals said:
close primary as much as possible. Place additional tubs of water on the top to suck up heat and increase the amount of air blowing over it by setting floor fans in front of it.
Matt
Matt
Well at 10 this morning it was 300 so I did the exact same thing ... Bunch of med-small splits with the small on top and just like that did it again...
I think it was the small splits that got hot fast ... Never went over 825 but temps shot up quick and I thought for sure it was going too
It's now in the about 450-475ish
I think I may have learned something new...
The small splits get hot quick and turning it all the way down make the stove heat up fast... Will try the same thing but leave more air and see how much of a difference it is
I think it was the small splits that got hot fast ... Never went over 825 but temps shot up quick and I thought for sure it was going too
It's now in the about 450-475ish
I think I may have learned something new...
The small splits get hot quick and turning it all the way down make the stove heat up fast... Will try the same thing but leave more air and see how much of a difference it is
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