Whitfield Profile 20 FS-2

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Black Bird

New Member
Jan 1, 2012
2
Virginia
New to the site and need some help before I spend any further $ on my stove. Upon first start-up of the morning my stove fills the house up with smoke! Auto ignite is new and reads 3 Amp draw with 38 Ohms at start-up. Fire will light, but goes out with large amounts of white smoke in fire box, then blows smoke and ash into room before lighting-up again and burning. This happens only on the first light-up of the day. Once the first light-up occurs the stove lights normally each time after without incident all day long.

The combustion/convection fan motor reads 1.2 Amps @ 95.8 volts on high and 12 Ohms. If I connect power directly to a 120v outlet (bypass the stove control board) the fan reads 1.6 Amp @ 115v.

The Exhaust fan reads .6 Amps @ 62.0 Volts on high and 19 Ohms. If I bypass the board the fan will show 1.0 Amps @ 115v the rating shown on the motor.

I can't fine an adjustment for the voltage on the Exhaust fan motor and doing a calibration on the combustion/convection fan motor at the control board has no effect on the voltages on the exhaust fan.

My question, do I have a bad control board? Or is this normal to have the exhaust fan motor run at half the rated Amperage and voltage?

Any help would be grateful, a new control board runs around $400.00, non-returnable!!!!
 
I suspect that you are suffering from the effect of heavy cold damp air sitting in your exhaust vent. I've experienced that causing first-ignition (manual ignition) smoke not escaping fully out the vent pipe but entering the room through either back-flow out my intake pipe (which I don't turn on for several minutes (again, all manual) or through a less than perfect exhaust pipe seal. To prevent it, I turn the exhaust fan on and let it run for up to 5 minutes or more while I do something else, and only then light the stove (using odorless lamp oil squirted onto 4-5 little pine cones on top of a single layer of pellets). See if allowing the exhaust fan some time to move the heavy air out of your exhaust vent will help.
 
Thanks to both Imacman and Arnash for your replies. I believe we may have the issue fixed, I broke the stove fan motors down and cleaned both with compressed air good. A lot of ash and lint came out of the motor windings, but I believe the real fit was the exhaust fan gasket replacement. The stock one was about a 1/16" thick and the new, replacement one purchased from Wood Heat Stoves.com was almost an 1/8" thick. Apparently these gaskets do wear out after about 3 to 4 years and start to leak. I have had two cold air start-ups since the replacement gasket with on smoke or blow back issues. My thinks to the staff at WoodStoveHeat.com for their help and all of you. I'll keep monitoring this site and hopefully help others in the future with their problems. No where does Whitfield recommend replacement of this gasket if you start getting smoke or blow back from the stove! If this does fix the issue, it cost me $8.00 instead of $340.00 for a new control board!!!!!

Thanks again for all the replies and help. :coolgrin:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.