I am running a (new this year) Napoleon NPS 45. Yesterday I could tell it was about to overheat, which was strange because it was on the lowest heat setting. I also noticed an unusual smell (like hot metal/glue, not normal) ... After it overheated I let it cool a little reset the high limit switch. I then turned it back on and left the house for 6 hours. When I came back the stove was off completely and will not turn back on. There are no lights on the control board and it is plugged into a working outlet. Any ideas as to what happened. Could it be a fuse? and if so where might I locate it? I could find nothing in the manual that is helping. Any help is much appreciated.
Stove overheat then not receiving power to control board :(
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You got bigger nads than I do.
Is the room blower(convection) working?
Tell us more.
I agree....NO WAY I'm turning a stove back on that just shut off for an overheat situation, and then LEAVE THE HOUSE
!! That's crazy stuff. Please respond to above question....is the convection blower working??
Everything was working when I had turned it and noticed it was about to overheat (besides the overheating part) When I let it cool reset high limit stove came back on working what seemed to be fine..... When I came home to the stove off nothing is turning on back on. The control board seems to be "dead".
Sorry for the typos. Yeah Dumb move starting the stove back up and leaving, worst case situation I thought it would just overheat again and turn off with a #4 flashing light. Did not expect this. Could I have overheated the control board. blew a fuse. The smell coming from the stove was also strange before it tripped. I looked around at the wires and could see no apparent melting or burn mark of any sort on the control board.
I agree....NO WAY I'm turning a stove back on that just shut off for an overheat situation, and then LEAVE THE HOUSE
Please respond to above question....is the convection blower working??
Agreed. Crazy aint the word.... Have you checked the fuse?
Is the stove on a good surge protector?
smwilliamson
The Stove Guy
How did you know that it was going to overheat? What was the clue to you? That stove should not over heat unless the convection fan is wicked dirty of the fan is seized. something is up. That smell could very well have been your convection motor cooking and dying. While it was slowly slipping away to the big squirrel in the sky, it is possible it drew too many amps and fried the fuse on the back of the control board.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
I won't comment on the action. But it is likely your convection fan is seized, burned out, or otherwise not turning. This can lead to fuses going poof and sometimes the blower speed control triac.
After you locate and replace any poofed fuses, pull and clean your convection fan, locate its lubrication points and apply several drops of 3 in 1 oil from a blue and white can (this is 20 weight non detergent oil meant for electric motors) work this oil into the bushings and stop only when the motor turns freely, then add two more drops to each bushing. Reinstall the blower and test it with a patch cord before connecting it to your wire harness. Remember line voltage can kill you or start a fire if you do not pay attention to what you are doing
After you locate and replace any poofed fuses, pull and clean your convection fan, locate its lubrication points and apply several drops of 3 in 1 oil from a blue and white can (this is 20 weight non detergent oil meant for electric motors) work this oil into the bushings and stop only when the motor turns freely, then add two more drops to each bushing. Reinstall the blower and test it with a patch cord before connecting it to your wire harness. Remember line voltage can kill you or start a fire if you do not pay attention to what you are doing
Thanks for the advice. I did blow a fuse but when I replaced the fuse it starts up for a couple seconds and then blows again. The stove is running through a good surge protector. I have been keeping the fan clean and actually cleaned it a couple days before this happened. This stove is new as of this past Nov.
Today I labeled all the wires disconnected them and connected each component until i blew a fuse. When I plugged the two connectors to the switch up by the hopper lid ( the one that pushes down the button to tell the stove the hopper lid is closed, I blew a fuse) I examined the wires that led to and from that connection and could find no damage to the wires themselves. I took the switch (the one by the hopper lid) out and opened it up to check that there wasn't damage inside. I wish i did not do this because there were small pieces inside that I cannot get back together. Regardless I know what connection makes the stove blow a fuse because when all others are plugged in the stove does receive power without blowing a fuse. Any ideas as to why this connection is causing the fuse to be blown. Thank You in advance!
Today I labeled all the wires disconnected them and connected each component until i blew a fuse. When I plugged the two connectors to the switch up by the hopper lid ( the one that pushes down the button to tell the stove the hopper lid is closed, I blew a fuse) I examined the wires that led to and from that connection and could find no damage to the wires themselves. I took the switch (the one by the hopper lid) out and opened it up to check that there wasn't damage inside. I wish i did not do this because there were small pieces inside that I cannot get back together. Regardless I know what connection makes the stove blow a fuse because when all others are plugged in the stove does receive power without blowing a fuse. Any ideas as to why this connection is causing the fuse to be blown. Thank You in advance!
On Page 38 of your owner's manual, the wiring diagram shows the hopper lid switch is wired to the Auger Motor and then the igniter in series. I worked on an NPS40 that kept tripping the house circuit breaker. Disconnecting the igniter stopped the fuse blowing and it could be started manually. Tape up the end so it does not short to ground. There is 120v on it!
NPS45 Manual
http://www.napoleonfireplaces.com/Tech/installation_manuals/NPS45_NPI45.pdf
Try that and see if it works.
Isn't this the second time this has happened with this stove or am I mistaken. If this is a new stove I would get the dealer involved and if no help from him get Napoleon involved. This stove is dangerous and should not be left alone until it is deemed safe by a pro.
I have npi45 new in Dec. 2011, I would call your local dealer to have checked it out before running it when you are away. If a local dealer is not available (for those whom have purchased from the internet.) You should call the manufacture and have a replacement board sent, while it is still under warranty. Generally speaking circuit boards become damaged from heat, and power surges all the time and have replaced boards on most every brand though some are worst than others. As for the convection fan it is controlled by voltage increases from the board and may be a issue also, best to have it looked at by a pro if you can. Good luck
Thanks. I talked to the dealer/guy i got it from and he is going to get a new hopper switch, do you think that could be the problem? or do you think it is more of a control board issue?
Take the wires from the switch and connect them together (bypassing switch)....if stove starts up & runs normally, you'll know it was the switch.....but I'm thinking it's something else.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
I'm placing my money on one of the following two items:
1: Convection blower is toast or toasting things.
2: You have a short in the wiring.
First one is my favorite.
1: Convection blower is toast or toasting things.
2: You have a short in the wiring.
First one is my favorite.
If closing the hopper causes the fuse to blow that sure means the hopper switch is good! Or just put an ohm meter on the switch and test it!
My money is on a bad Igniter! I have seen it before!
So i connected the hopper switch together (bypassed it) turned it on and still blew a fuse. I then tried to disconnect the ignitor leaving the hopper switch bypassed. still blew a fuse. When I had everything plugged in except for the hopper switch and turned it on everything was working. ignitor started getting red the auger was not putting pellets out because the return from the hopper switch goes to the auger but all fans worked and no fuse was blown. Does this sound like a control board issue at this point? The wires from the hopper switch are not melted at all and appear fine. Appreciating all the help. Thanks
Sure sounds like a dead short on those hopper switch wires somewhere. Maybe use an Ohmeter to check for a short at each end of the wire and and ground. I'd do some more looking....maybe even remove the wires to check them. If they seem OK, it sure sounds like a control board issue.
Did you do a REAL good inspection of the board for burned components? If so, did you remove it from the stove to check both sides?
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Disconnect your auger motor and using a patch cord try running it from line voltage. Remember line voltage can kill you.
If your stove overheated you could have all kinds of problems caused by that. You are not suposed to just reset the limit switch and try again.
Over fired stoves have been known to destroy combustion blowers, convection blowers, augers, vacuum hoses, fireboxes, and wiring as well as the control boards.
If your stove overheated you could have all kinds of problems caused by that. You are not suposed to just reset the limit switch and try again.
Over fired stoves have been known to destroy combustion blowers, convection blowers, augers, vacuum hoses, fireboxes, and wiring as well as the control boards.
Snowy Rivers
Minister of Fire
This stove needs to be looked over carefuly by someone who knows electrical procedures and the stove.
There is definately somthing hinky going on.
The SMELL thing is a tip off that some component has/is taking the big leave.
The exhaust blower as well as the room air blower needs to be checked out well.
If these are fine then other components need to be checked.
The auger motor is also suspect.
IF I were doing the diagnostics, I would do a serious SNIFF test on the motors first and if this revealed nothing, I would unhook each component until I discovered what was causing the fuse to go away.
The wierd smell is the give away.
I am still ??????????? as to how you knew it was going to overheat ????????
Runing on the low setting the stove should not overheat.
More info needed
Snowy
There is definately somthing hinky going on.
The SMELL thing is a tip off that some component has/is taking the big leave.
The exhaust blower as well as the room air blower needs to be checked out well.
If these are fine then other components need to be checked.
The auger motor is also suspect.
IF I were doing the diagnostics, I would do a serious SNIFF test on the motors first and if this revealed nothing, I would unhook each component until I discovered what was causing the fuse to go away.
The wierd smell is the give away.
I am still ??????????? as to how you knew it was going to overheat ????????
Runing on the low setting the stove should not overheat.
More info needed
Snowy
Hi Snowy
Did you get my PM which is called "Conversation" in this new board?
You have to click on "Inbox" in the upper right.
I knew the stove was going to overheat because it was running hot on lowest heat setting, high flame and sides of stove were very hot. I did unhook all components until i narrowed it down to the hopper switch, which blew the fuse. I am totally lost with this one. Dealer is almost no help at all.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
High flames on the lowest settings is a symptom of a very poor burn usually caused by a dirty stove.
Is the stove under warranty?
If so follow that path.
Is the stove under warranty?
If so follow that path.
stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
is the high limit switch itself wired into the same circuit as the lid switch? the short may be in the limit switch if a snapdisk, its rare but it can happen to have a snapdisk ground out. also the "smell" may have been the limit switch cooking.
im just guessing as i do not know the ins and outs of their product, but the panel is correct on this as either a dead short or a bad motor overamping or the igniter could be blown as well
im just guessing as i do not know the ins and outs of their product, but the panel is correct on this as either a dead short or a bad motor overamping or the igniter could be blown as well
So I took the auger motor out and i don't know much about motors but the melted tape and burn marks seem to be what is causing the problem. What do you guys think?
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