Vermont Castings Encore 2 in 1 ?

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I hear what you're saying, Nino, it makes sence. I will try this technique with my 2190, as long as I actually bring it home. I burn a Dutchwest Cat currently and also run it hot before engaging the cat. On that stove my temps sometimes reach 600 before engaging the cat. They say burning wood is an art and I've come to agree. This year has been a great learning experience with my cat stove. I'm at the point when I know exactly when to engage the cat and get it to light off (I can see the cat through the baffle on top of my stove.) Same can be said about getting low intensity clean fires during mild weather days like today. I can engage the cat with the cat probe at 300 and get it to continually climb up continuously untill light off. It actually lights off around 600-700 degrees, so the cat does not have to be at 1000 degrees to work effectively. That's the beauty of the cats they can burn the smoke at lower temperatures, as low as 500 degrees. However, I agree to get better heat temps above 1000 really do the job! Thank your for sharing your experiences.
 
A little update on the 2n1's....


According to a source at MHSC, it IS technically possible to retrofit the newer 2n1 refractory pieces into the previous models. He was very particular about stating that this is not officially supported "at this time", but it is possible.

Also, they have revised the composition of the refractory access panels. Any panels that have been replaced under warranty from here on (wasn't clear when this change was made) will have been made with the new recipe (the part number has remained the same).
 
Clarks ACE Hardware said:
A little update on the 2n1's....


According to a source at MHSC, it IS technically possible to retrofit the newer 2n1 refractory pieces into the previous models. He was very particular about stating that this is not officially supported "at this time", but it is possible.

Also, they have revised the composition of the refractory access panels. Any panels that have been replaced under warranty from here on (wasn't clear when this change was made) will have been made with the new recipe (the part number has remained the same).


That's very interesting and surprising. And highlights how wrong I was :)
 
Clarks ACE Hardware said:
A little update on the 2n1's....


According to a source at MHSC, it IS technically possible to retrofit the newer 2n1 refractory pieces into the previous models. He was very particular about stating that this is not officially supported "at this time", but it is possible.

Also, they have revised the composition of the refractory access panels. Any panels that have been replaced under warranty from here on (wasn't clear when this change was made) will have been made with the new recipe (the part number has remained the same).



Thank you for looking into this. If I will need to buy a new fireback and fountain (at a minimum) for my previous generation Defiant, I would certainly prefer to change it over to the new 2 in 1 parts. At least then I'd have more confidence that the refractory parts might not need replacing in two years (????) ........ and I'd have to think parts support will obviously be better on the new 2 in 1s (provided they don't have the problems like the previous generation or stoves). Has anyone got access to MSRP prices on the parts that would be needed (fireback, fountain, access panel, cat ??) to change over to the new stuff ??
 
Ductape said:
Clarks ACE Hardware said:
A little update on the 2n1's....


According to a source at MHSC, it IS technically possible to retrofit the newer 2n1 refractory pieces into the previous models. He was very particular about stating that this is not officially supported "at this time", but it is possible.

Also, they have revised the composition of the refractory access panels. Any panels that have been replaced under warranty from here on (wasn't clear when this change was made) will have been made with the new recipe (the part number has remained the same).



Thank you for looking into this. If I will need to buy a new fireback and fountain (at a minimum) for my previous generation Defiant, I would certainly prefer to change it over to the new 2 in 1 parts. At least then I'd have more confidence that the refractory parts might not need replacing in two years (????) ........ and I'd have to think parts support will obviously be better on the new 2 in 1s (provided they don't have the problems like the previous generation or stoves). Has anyone got access to MSRP prices on the parts that would be needed (fireback, fountain, access panel, cat ??) to change over to the new stuff ??

I'm sure if you PM J. Clark he'd be willing to help you out with the prices.
 
Clarks ACE Hardware said:
A little update on the 2n1's....


According to a source at MHSC, it IS technically possible to retrofit the newer 2n1 refractory pieces into the previous models. He was very particular about stating that this is not officially supported "at this time", but it is possible .

That's good to hear, thanks for the update Jay. Hopefully VC will put together 2N1 upgrade kits for the non-cat ( Everburn) Encores and Defiants similiar to the fireback kits they have available for the Encore cats. .
 
I'm bumping this thread to see if anyone out there with a non-catalytic Defiant (1610) or Encore (1450) is interested in experimenting with converting their stove to the new 2n1 system.

PM me if interested.
 
That sounds interesting Jay I look forward to hearing the experiences of those who do the mod..

Ray
 
Clarks ACE Hardware said:
I'm bumping this thread to see if anyone out there with a non-catalytic Defiant (1610) or Encore (1450) is interested in experimenting with converting their stove to the new 2n1 system.

PM me if interested.

Sent you a PM. Picking up a Cat Defiant on Saturday.
 
My Encore 1450 Non Cat has the Everburn chamber. Just spent half hour reading this post. I have no complaints with the Non Cat Encore, as it gets great secondary burns once the stove is hot and full of fuel. I'm going to post a new topic on this too, but when I clean the ash from the stove, I've put my hand up inside the refractory chamber and I find there are loose pieces of flaky gray chips that fall from the inside wall of the chamber. They are up to 1/8th thick. Can this be creosote or part of the chamber deteriorating? Not sure. But love the stove.
 
CRC said:
My Encore 1450 Non Cat has the Everburn chamber. Just spent half hour reading this post. I have no complaints with the Non Cat Encore, as it gets great secondary burns once the stove is hot and full of fuel. I'm going to post a new topic on this too, but when I clean the ash from the stove, I've put my hand up inside the refractory chamber and I find there are loose pieces of flaky gray chips that fall from the inside wall of the chamber. They are up to 1/8th thick. Can this be creosote or part of the chamber deteriorating? Not sure. But love the stove.

Post some pictures of the flaky chips.
 
CRC said:
when I clean the ash from the stove, I've put my hand up inside the refractory chamber and I find there are loose pieces of flaky gray chips that fall from the inside wall of the chamber. They are up to 1/8th thick. Can this be creosote or part of the chamber deteriorating? Not sure. But love the stove.

I get the same thing in the afterburner of my stove; it is the chamber deteriorating. I have to be very careful when cleaning ash. If the vacuum comes in contact with it, pieces of the chamber come off.
 
branchburner said:
CRC said:
when I clean the ash from the stove, I've put my hand up inside the refractory chamber and I find there are loose pieces of flaky gray chips that fall from the inside wall of the chamber. They are up to 1/8th thick. Can this be creosote or part of the chamber deteriorating? Not sure. But love the stove.

I get the same thing in the afterburner of my stove; it is the chamber deteriorating. I have to be very careful when cleaning ash. If the vacuum comes in contact with it, pieces of the chamber come off.

Branchburner

I wonder if this is normal. My stove was built 4/10, installed 2/11, and been burning in operation for an estimate of 6 months moderate use. I don't know what the life expectancy of the refractory everburn unit is supposed to be, or what it would involve and cost to replace.

I guess for now I wont put my hand up there and just leave it be. The stove seems to be unaffected.

Anyone know what material the chamber is made from? I wonder if the summer months humidity have somehow enhanced the problem. Last summer I left the flue closed, so the only route for airflow would be through the secondary burn chamber. This may have been a mistake. I found a dead bird in there in July, that somehow made it in through the chamber, and died in the stove. Had a small fire in July after that discovery to purge the spirits, despite the 90 degree summer.

My theory is the temp. gradient from the hot and humid to the cool cast iron had created moisture and eventually deterioration. This summer I'll leave everything wide open to let it circulate better.
 
Clarks ACE Hardware said:
I'm bumping this thread to see if anyone out there with a non-catalytic Defiant (1610) or Encore (1450) is interested in experimenting with converting their stove to the new 2n1 system.

PM me if interested.

I'd also like to add that if anyone would like to temporarily donate either one of these stoves so that we may do the conversion ourselves, you'd end up with a freshly converted 2n1. Preferably someone in the mid-atlantic region.

For anyone that is interested in either donating the stove to us or doing the conversion yourself...

We will be subsidizing a portion of the cost of the parts to you during this period until all the kinks are worked out. The retail cost of the package is expected to run about $700 assuming all goes well with initial conversions.
 
I know this thread is a few months old, but I have a defiant 1610. I just started to get ready for burning season and found a crack in the firebacks and the shoe. When I did a little more investigating I found the fountain is deteriorating. This thread interests me because I was thinking about replacing the insides with the new 2n1 insides. The new defiant has a primary air damper in the base. Is that the only one or is there still one over the doors? What parts would be required to do the changeover? Thanks, Rick
 
I know this thread is a few months old, but I have a defiant 1610. I just started to get ready for burning season and found a crack in the firebacks and the shoe. When I did a little more investigating I found the fountain is deteriorating. This thread interests me because I was thinking about replacing the insides with the new 2n1 insides. The new defiant has a primary air damper in the base. Is that the only one or is there still one over the doors? What parts would be required to do the changeover? Thanks, Rick

I wish I could be of more assistance but I'm just bumping this for you hoping someone else will come along.

All I can say is that I LOVE my Encore 2in1! :)

-Emt1581
 
Hi everone. I don't know if anyone is still monitoring this forum, but I could really use some help. I have a encore 2 in 1 and I'm experiencing ignition in the chimney 1 to 2 times per day. This is even after i had it cleaned by the person who sold me the stove. I am so frustrated with these chimney fires inside the stainless steel liner that I want to get rid of the stove. If anyone has any words of wisdom i am all ears. Thx. Moses.
 
I got fire going this morning. I closed down the air control while building the fire and avoided igniting the chimney so that was good.
I went and came bac and came back inside and there was a glow in the bottom of the stove where the coals are. I realize this ed look I realize this looks like when I sometimes open the ash door to get a fire going there's like a stream straight up of fire. I think the gasket on ash door is not feeling snuggly anymore and that is what is causing me to have too much air in the stove and causing the chimney to catch on fire
 
Too much air won't cause the flue to catch on fire. What is likely happening is when your bypass is open, it allows flames to go directly up the flue. You are getting a light layer of build up through out the day, when the flames hit it, it ignites. My stove has done this a few times, it's kinda scary, but closing the bypass stops the fire.
 
Thanks for responding. I went to the store yesterday for guidance. They have an encore going and i got some much needed advice. I wasn't building a 3 inch bed of coals prior to loading up the firebox. Last night i built the fire more slowly building up the coals and i didn't have a chimney fire...yeah! First day of no chimney fire in over a week! :)
 
Opening the ash door for extra draft is a very bad habit to get in to - it'll destroy the insides of the stove and fog the glass if you keep it up too long, especially if you go away and forget its open. OK, it's often very hard to get a fire going in a reasonable amount of time without doing it. Though needing to open the ash door is often an indication that your wood is not dry enough.

I realize this looks like when I sometimes open the ash door to get a fire going there's like a stream straight up of fire.
 
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thanks slindo. They told me that at the store also. I am not going to do that any more. Problem i have now is i over tightened the ash door latch and can't get it open without hitting the handle with a hammer. I need to let the stove go out and readjust the handle.

When i went to the store i brought some firewood with me for them to test with moisture meter and it was okay. It's been split and stacked for 10 months and sitting in a spot that gets direct sunligh every day.
 
The reason i got into opening the ash door is impatience... i am trying to get out the door to work on time. Having a wood stove like this is for the retired i think lol. I don't have the kind of time necessary to run this stove plus i am not mechanicallly inclined either so i should have installed a propane or natural gas stove
 
Does anyone know if the stove is going in secondary burn mode (see the flame in the back) if you can open damper and add a piece of wood and immediately close damper?
 
Just wondering if any of you guys have an update on how your 2-in-1 is burning now that you've had it for a couple of seasons? I have been looking into replacing my older Resolute with an EPA top loader and am starting to seriously consider the new encore after reading this post. Any issues with the CATs or weak firebacks? How are they holding up and would you guys still recommend it?
 
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