I was hoping someone out there could give some ideas to slow my stove down. I have a super 27 13 ft of dsp and 6ft of selkirk chimney pipe. last night I started small fire to get going then I put 3 large splits in and turned the baffle control all the way down stove was 200. The secondaries kicked on real strong and stove peaked at around 675 stove top. The wood was down to embers in less than 2 hours. I have replaced the window and door gasket. The flame on the logs don't seem to be out of control but the secondaries are. Any suggestions how I can slow it down so my burn lasts longer. I am burning lodge pole could it just be the wood.
Super 27 burning wood to fast
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Slow1
Minister of Fire
First thought in "burning too fast/hot" that comes to my mind is an air leak. I assume all your gaskets pass the "dollar bill test" after the changeout?
How did the stove burn before replacing the gaskets?
The pine is going to be less dense than say oak, but 2hrs seems fast to me, then again I don't know that stove other than what has been posted here.
What size are your splits? Perhaps you need to split larger so that they off-gas slower which could help extend your burn times and moderate things (less for the secondaries to consume).
How did the stove burn before replacing the gaskets?
The pine is going to be less dense than say oak, but 2hrs seems fast to me, then again I don't know that stove other than what has been posted here.
What size are your splits? Perhaps you need to split larger so that they off-gas slower which could help extend your burn times and moderate things (less for the secondaries to consume).
Is this a new stove? Is the secondary air control linkage working?
My Spectrum definitely burns differently when the box is packed tight. Three decent splits are burned to coals in 3 hours or so, but a tightly packed load burns forever. I think the offgassing is more controlled. Temps peak around 600-650, and it is still at 300 eight hours later with tons of coals. This is with white ash and the occasional oak split, I would expect less with softwood.
I have 8' of class A, and ~5' of dsp, and draft is plenty strong, even on more moderate temps.
My Spectrum definitely burns differently when the box is packed tight. Three decent splits are burned to coals in 3 hours or so, but a tightly packed load burns forever. I think the offgassing is more controlled. Temps peak around 600-650, and it is still at 300 eight hours later with tons of coals. This is with white ash and the occasional oak split, I would expect less with softwood.
I have 8' of class A, and ~5' of dsp, and draft is plenty strong, even on more moderate temps.
Primary and secondary air controls are linked together. Look up behind the back of the stove, and you should see where the secondary air enters. It goes into the rectangular tube that runs between the bricks at the inside back of the stove. There should be a damper that partially closes it off as the primary air is cut back.
I think. I'm going by memory here, as my stove is a couple hundred miles away.
I think. I'm going by memory here, as my stove is a couple hundred miles away.
Pine is definitely going to burn hotter and faster. How thick across are the splits? Were you getting strong winds last night?
The splits are about 4 to 6 inches wide long enough I could not them load east west. It was rainy and little windy. I noticed if I loaded the stove east west I could get a little longer burn but I am not seeing 4 hour burns. Here is a pic with damper being shut down. I was also able to start of fire last week when I accidentally left the damper closed without any problems
Seanm
Minister of Fire
Welcome to the forum Mr3117. I did almost exactly what you did. Im at work but my wife just loaded the stove and took this picture for us. You can see a piece of wood on the bottom left of her picture? That's whats left over from a split of lodgepole that I put in 4 hours ago. I put in 3 decent sized splits of Lodgepole around 9:30 or 10:00. The stove top was cooling off but the wood was put on a good bed of coals raked forward and caught almost right away. I turned down the stove in increments and after reaching 650 stove top it steadied down to the mid 500s. Had I put another three in there I think it would have lasted longer. I question how you registered the 200 degrees? My numbers are in F and are taken from the center of the stove near the stove pipe collar with an infra red.
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Ashful
Minister of Fire
Put a magnet partially covering the air inlet hole for the secondaries. Adjust magnet for outside weather / draft. I believe Brother Bart did the same with his NC-30.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
I had not noticed. Okay... scratch that!
I'm confused by the OP... raging secondaries would be the result of wood going to gas too quickly, not the cause of it. If you're burning a full load in 2 hours, with the air shut down all the way, it seems to me more air must be entering the firebox by means unintended.
Seanm
Minister of Fire
Hey Jeff you just hit 3000 messages
Hey thanks, I probably wouldn't have noticed. I use my phone 99% of the time, and usually in portrait, which doesn't show a post count. Coulda flown right by.
Let me say that I am by no means a highly experienced burner of this stove. I did take a reallllly good look at it because (1) I got it used, and (2) I want to know how things work. The little bit I have burned has gone very well, and I really enjoy it.
I have 13' of chimney, and it drafts really well. With another 6', I could see it possibly being a problem.
I took the cover off below the stove I can see the linkage sliding back and forth. The air inlet gets covered by a rectangular piece of metal. I dont see any problems closing it off. I think im just going to change the door gasket again this weekend and see if I can get a tighter seal around the latch
JayD
Feeling the Heat
It looks like most of your chimney is inside. I would say your getting to much draft. I had that problem on a stove in the basement. Try a BDR damper.
skinanbones
Feeling the Heat
i think that you have the wrong size gasket in the door. For the year your stove is built and the style of door that you have, you should have 5/8 gasket. The 1/2 gasket was only on the older stoves with the narrower styled door. I think around 2002-4 that they switched to the current 7/8 gasket
Don't do that. There is a secondary valve on this stove that this would interfere with. If there is a boost air manifold hole bottom front and center, that would be a better place to experiment with the magnet.
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Post a picture of the load before you close the door it doesn't even look half filled from the pictures posted. I don't think you should expect more than 2 hours of active flames with 3 pine splits. After that you should have coals that last for hours, the majority of a burn/heat in a non cat comes from the coals. Can you record the stove top temps in 1-2 hour increments for a burn so we get a better feel of what you're experiencing?
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
If you were able to start a fire with the air closed off at the start, you have a serious air leak somewhere. That thing should never have done much but smolder at best with the air closed all the way at the start of a fire.I doubt even a door leak would let that thing do much but smolder from the start with the primary air closed. Does that thing have an ash pan? How well is that sealing if it does?
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