Gettin' cold....watch for frozen pipes

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I should have left it dripping, but I thought that between the cabinets under the sink being open and the small amount of heat in the crawl space I would be okay. Clearly I thought wrong. This is not unusually cold for where I live, but this is about as cold as it gets. Our typical mid winter highs are 20-25 with lows between 5-15.
 
The warmest it has been in the last 72 hours at my place is -2F, coldest was -18F.

Ouch. Almost tropical here in comparison (a balmy -18::C I think is the coldest morning so far).

I think we're all gonna get walloped all over this winter. Good luck with the pipe un-freeze...
 
I had my heating pipes burst because I was working through a nice pile of firewood. The thermostat never called for heat and the water in the pipes just sat there. After time, the water froze and eventually the pipes burst and poured out water until my well was drained

what about hot water? is it heated by another means?
 
I have never been a fan of partially draining anything. The water always find the low spots so the freeze issue is still there. I figured that out the hard way. I was blowing out the water in my RV but going from the outside low point and blowing compressed air out the faucets. Blowing water uphill....not thorough enough. Water settled into the low spots when I stopped the compressed air and I had to re-plumb the RV the next spring...live and learn!

Try the ThermGuard. It will cycle the water for you. You'll never have to remember to do it again. It attaches to your thermostat and it is just like you turn on the zone for a few minutes every few hours. Peace of mind!

Cheers,
John


Do you need one for each zone? This sounds exactly what I'm looking for in our cape vacation house. Our 2 choices were to drain, add anti-freeze or set the heat to 50 in the winter.
 
My pipes are in the basement right beside a 8oolb. soapstone stove.When that stove is going the water in the 80 gallon tank is even warm.
 
Not boiler pipes, but I used to live in a mobile home that was poorly insulated and after coming home from work a couples times to no water, i left one of the taps running a thin pencil lead size stream the rest of the winter and had no issues.

Like I said won't work for a heating system but not a bad idea if you have potable lines that are prone to freezes.
 
Not boiler pipes, but I used to live in a mobile home that was poorly insulated and after coming home from work a couples times to no water, i left one of the taps running a thin pencil lead size stream the rest of the winter and had no issues.

Like I said won't work for a heating system but not a bad idea if you have potable lines that are prone to freezes.
The ThermGuard also helps keep pipes from freezing in mobile homes. The pipes are typically run in or next to the heating ventilation system. When a pellet stove or wood stove is running, the heater never comes on and the pipes have a high likelihood of freezing. If you program the ThermGuard to turn on the furnace fan, not the heat, just the fan, it will draw air heated by the stove and run it through the vents. In this water you can keep the domestic water pipes from freezing in a mobile home. Ten minutes every half an hour of running the fan would be a good place to start.

John
 
what about hot water? is it heated by another means?
My hot water is just another zone on my boiler. I never had problems with the hot/cold domestic lines.....until this year when my dishwasher lines got slushy. It was always my heating lines that ran close to an outside wall or above the garage. We have had -25F (without wind chill) so far this winter. No problems with the boiler pipes!
 
Do you need one for each zone? This sounds exactly what I'm looking for in our cape vacation house. Our 2 choices were to drain, add anti-freeze or set the heat to 50 in the winter.
Yes, typically you need one for each zone. I just built a unit for a member in Alaska that used a relay and controlled 4 zones with one ThermGuard. I used the relay design I have posted here. It was all in a nice plastic enclosure with a separate 24VAC transformer and a 4PDT relay and socket. The parts and labor don't make too much sense unless you are doing it yourself, or if you have more than 2 zones and want me or someone else to get involved.
 
Yes, typically you need one for each zone. I just built a unit for a member in Alaska that used a relay and controlled 4 zones with one ThermGuard. I used the relay design I have posted here. It was all in a nice plastic enclosure with a separate 24VAC transformer and a 4PDT relay and socket. The parts and labor don't make too much sense unless you are doing it yourself, or if you have more than 2 zones and want me or someone else to get involved.


Thanks, I have 3 zones. But only 2 I am worried about that have a crawl space under rooms. The 3rd zone has a full basement. I was thinking of putting the 2 units in the full basement next to the boiler.
 
Thanks, I have 3 zones. But only 2 I am worried about that have a crawl space under rooms. The 3rd zone has a full basement. I was thinking of putting the 2 units in the full basement next to the boiler.
Righty-o....that is a very typical application. ThermGuard units don't have to be installed by the thermostats. They can easily be installed in the boiler room. You only need to have access to the red and white wires that run up to the thermostat.

John
 
okay, please help me understand this a bit better. If I installed the thermguard, I can set my thermostat to say, 45 and the thermguard will cycle the water through the pipes by running the furnace periodically? Can I completely turn the thermostat all the way down or off?

Using ThermGuard, the thermostat could be set to a lower temperature. The thermostat would control the temperature of the inner walls of the home and keep the household hot and cold water lines from freezing. ThermGuard would periodically circulate water through the heating system and keep the heating pipes (which typically reach to the extremities of the house) from freezing.

Since heating pipes typically reach to the extremities of the home, having the thermostat set to the 50° range runs the risk of freezing their heating pipes on extremely cold days. You may be saving money on the heating bill, but the risk is there. ThermGuard will work to keep the extremities from freezing by periodically circulating hot water through the heating system.
 
okay, please help me understand this a bit better. If I installed the thermguard, I can set my thermostat to say, 45 and the thermguard will cycle the water through the pipes by running the furnace periodically? Can I completely turn the thermostat all the way down or off?
That is 100% correct. That is what I do on three zones of my house. The thermostats are turned off. The wood stove heats the area of the house I mostly reside in. The ThermGuards on the other zones periodically circulate water an the heating pipes never freeze. If you had potable water in any area that was completely turned off, might want to leave the thermostat set to 50, and leave the cabinets open, just in case. If the thermostat calls for heat because the temperature dropped below 50, the ThermGuards would reset their timing and not circulate water until the interval had expired (two hours for example) without heat being called for by the thermostat. In my house in Montana, I do have potable water, but the pipes aren't in danger (inside walls and over finished basement) so I leave the thermostats off and ThermGuards on.
John
 
That is 100% correct. That is what I do on three zones of my house. The thermostats are turned off. The wood stove heats the area of the house I mostly reside in. The ThermGuards on the other zones periodically circulate water an the heating pipes never freeze. If you had potable water in any area that was completely turned off, might want to leave the thermostat set to 50, and leave the cabinets open, just in case. If the thermostat calls for heat because the temperature dropped below 50, the ThermGuards would reset their timing and not circulate water until the interval had expired (two hours for example) without heat being called for by the thermostat. In my house in Montana, I do have potable water, but the pipes aren't in danger (inside walls and over finished basement) so I leave the thermostats off and ThermGuards on.
John


Thanks, just ordered 2. Looked at my bill for march last year and it was $135. We have town water, potable = well and/or tank storage?
 
Thanks Mass_burner. You ended your last post with a question mark....I didn't see a question. Am I missing something?
 
Thanks Mass_burner. You ended your last post with a question mark....I didn't see a question. Am I missing something?


sorry, yes. you wrote "I do have potable water" so does that mean well water and/or a tank storage setup?
 
sorry, yes. you wrote "I do have potable water" so does that mean well water and/or a tank storage setup?
I have well water with a cistern. For a while I had the deepest residential well in Montana (so I was told). 920 feet cased with steel all the way down. A fully loaded Lexus with leather interior buried in my yard.
 
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