BrotherBart said:Yeah you are in 5.5 territory. The six inches is the inside diameter of the liner with the outside being 6 1/4" territory so you would end up having to "ovalize" (read: mash) it to get it in. A 5.5 is going to draft just as well or better than a mashed up 6".
Get the full kit with cap, top plate and appliance adapter. It will be cheaper than buying an appliance adapter and a length of flex. It will come with a top plate to seal the top of the chimney and the liner will pass through that and the cap will attach either to the liner or the top plate collar which will act as a rain shield to keep water out of the chimney. Tell the liner peddler that the adapter has to be 5.5 to 6.
You can feed it up from the bottom but it is kinder to the thin metal of the liner to feed it from the top. If Hogwildz is there he will zip up there and feed it down to you. I think he is really Tarzan incognito.
Dunadan said:The 2 pics that have me curious are the most recent one you posted of the flue collar connection, and the original one.
Does that liner come down and fit easily into the top of your insert?
In your original picture, it looked like it wasn't in all the way, and I believe you said it had pulled out.
In the most recent picture, where you show the pipe out of the collar, it looks to me like the angle is wrong (i.e. the hole in the stove isn't far enough back for the pipe to insert easily).
Am I reading too much into your picture? Or is the alignment slightly off?
I ask because when my insert was installed, the installer ran into the same problem. The round liner couldn't bend enough after it came into the firebox to match up to my flue hole. Instead of bending the liner, an offset box needed to be installed.
If you do have this problem, you may need to plan to correct it.
Dunadan said:Not sure if that question was in regard to my post of just a general question.
If it was for me, no I don't think you need a T. What you need to determine is if a round liner (inserted properly into your stove) will be able to "bend" in a way to make it up through your damper area. The fact that you now have an oval liner makes me wonder if that was used because a round liner wouldn't make it up into the chimney.
Again, this is what happened in our case and the installer needed to cut away some of the masonry to allow the liner to get up into the chimney. Even doing this, I needed the offset box. The installer didn't know I'd need it until the very end of the installation, so you may not be able to tell until you get to that point. On the other hand, you may be able to since you already have a liner of sorts that you can play around with.
I don’t think I’ll need one if the liner is flexible.
Dunadan said:I don’t think I’ll need one if the liner is flexible.
I have a flexible liner, which is a bit of a misnomer.
Yes, it's flexible, but in the sense that it will bend over a span of several feet, at moderate angles.
No chance of making a sharp turns, at least with the flex liner I had, which in my case is what was needed to make the connection without offset box.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.