Can't line this chimney?

It's a bit of a challenge. Depends a lot on access through the side vents at the top and just what it looks like inside. Flex liners can be put up from the bottom, but then there's work to be done at the top to secure, support, and seal it. It's probably not impossible, but it's not a slam-dunk. Work up top is gonna require a bucket truck or scaffolding, it would appear. You need to talk to someone with a bit more imagination and ambition than the crew you talked with. Rick

Is there not any liner in it at all? Mine had a clay liner so I only put flex liner up about 6 feet and then used a block off plate. Not sure if this is an option for you.

Luvmesomesamples said:

Is there not any liner in it at all? Mine had a clay liner so I only put flex liner up about 6 feet and then used a block off plate. Not sure if this is an option for you.

Click to expand...

That's not a good idea. The flue gas stream will slow way down when it exits the liner stub, so draft will suffer and the flue gases will cool much more rapidly on their way to daylight, exacerbating creosote condensation. It also seriously compromises the ease of a thorough sweep of the flue system. How do you go about making sure it's clean and safe to burn? Rick

I followed my harman install manual. But again mine was clay lined to begin with. Cleaning was once per year pulling the stove out, lowering the block off plate, and brushing. But after 6.5 ton last year it wasn't dirty at all.

The chimney top must be capped to prevent rain and/or snow from entering the chimney.The damper area must be sealed with a steel plate and it is recommended that Kaowool, Mineral wool or an equivalent non combustible insulation is used on top of the plate to reduce the possibility of condensation. Insulation alone should not be used to seal the damper opening.This method provides excellent venting for normal operation. This method also provides natural draft in the event of a power failure. If the chimney condition is questionable you may want to install a liner as in method #2.This is the minimum allowed vent pipe using 4" stainless steel flex pipe.The vent pipe must extend past the damper sealing area by at least 12 inches.note: The insulation material must not be allowed to expand to the point that it covers the end of the flex pipe.The chimney should be capped with any style cap that will not allow rain or snow to enter.In some places in the US and Canada, it is required that the vent pipe extend all the way to the top of the chimney. Check your local codes.Fig. 51warningchiMneY connector PiPe MaY not PaSS through concealed SPaceS including an attic, rooF SPace, cloSet, Floor or ceiling.

I don't think the OP's talking about a pellet burner.

Verbiage from install manual

Got it. Makes more sense now. Sorry.

Rent a lift and a big dry core, fill in the holes on the side?

It sounds like mostly demolition work. Of course its on a treacherous roof top, and if you want it done right and look nice a mason doing it would be preferable.

I am assuming the entire top needs to be removed because it is like a brick roof with openings on the side only.

Instinctively, it would seem, you only need a 6 inch hole bashed into the top of the brick to fit and drop a liner down that would then have the screen jut out over the top of the brick.

Realistically that sounds like a heck of a major chore and If I did it it would look like a hack job and I might realistically break my neck and die trying because of that roof.

So to me it does look like a chore for a professional and be quiet expensive because someone has to do it safely and that costs money, and have it done aesthetically as well and that takes money. Getting up there and demoing the top of chimney is probably not a chore many want to undertake.

I think you need to start getting quotes, maybe separate the chimney modification from the liner install - unless you find an outfit qualified to do both.

Good luck to you!