railfanron
Minister of Fire
The hole you're proposing to cut in the joist is an absolute no no. If you're going to have it inspected it will not pass. The hole in the concrete is the better option.
New. Help with model and setup
- Thread starter Dpopps
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
Mealie38
Member
From your pictures the joist run left to right which tells me the left and right walls are bearing. Could you locate the stove on a left or right wall? If so then you can vent in between joist spaces and would only be going thru a band board that ties into all of the joist ends. You could rent a medium sized hammer drill and a long bit. Most poured foundations are 8" thick. Draw your circle and run around it drilling holes and then knock out the chunk in the center with a hammer and chisel. That would be a bit of a chore but could be done. Most hammer drills also have a chipping hammer mode and misc. bits to chip out the piece you want out also.
Have you considered other install locations. I changed my 1st choice with some persuasion from the wife. It has actually worked out much better and she is happy.
Sorry Alt heat, just noticed you suggested the hammer drill rental! I have one I'll let you borrow but you will have to bring it back to KY.............Ha!
Have you considered other install locations. I changed my 1st choice with some persuasion from the wife. It has actually worked out much better and she is happy.
Sorry Alt heat, just noticed you suggested the hammer drill rental! I have one I'll let you borrow but you will have to bring it back to KY.............Ha!
Last edited:
For some odd reason I was not thinking, There is no real reason I can't put it anywhere in the basement. Well I do have a small reason I can't think, I have a newborn that thinks sleeping is not needed.
I was just thinking a few hours ago, why not just put this on another wall where a joist won't be in the way. I would rather have it on the wall I original picked out because I wanted it there and it would be facing the east and most of the time don't get a east wind. plus the ground and area has less combustion around.
I wanted to keep the house warmer this winter with a little one, before I would have the t-stat turn down at night.
This should look better.
I was just thinking a few hours ago, why not just put this on another wall where a joist won't be in the way. I would rather have it on the wall I original picked out because I wanted it there and it would be facing the east and most of the time don't get a east wind. plus the ground and area has less combustion around.
I wanted to keep the house warmer this winter with a little one, before I would have the t-stat turn down at night.
This should look better.
What, I wanted to rent that tool from ya.
. I have lots of tools that should do the job. I am hoping there will be enough time to get at in the next few weeks before the weather changes. Thanks all for the help. I am sure I will need more soon.
Ask any questions you have. I'm a contractor and will gladly help. I used the multi tool doing mine. I have an expensive one I used to do certain things with and I also have a cheap one from Harbor Freight that I don't care if it gets muddy or dropped. It works well also. They have a few to pick from there $19-$39 bucks. They come in very handy for a lot of stuff with blades to cut anything you want.
That's what I used cutting mine in Oct 18th. Depending on your thimble and hole the multi tool or hole saw would be my weapon of choice. A Sawzall (reciprocating saw) will also work but you will get a much cleaner cut with the multi or holesaw. The larger hole saws will cost as much as the HF multi tool too if you do not have one. I used the multi tool because my wall kit did both exhaust and outside air and required a 7 1/4" - 7 1/2" square opening. Some kits are square while others are round.
One more thing.... Get a fire protective barrier or gate type deal up in front of it for the lil one when you fire it up. People will get all over you about it here with good reason. Just a heads up. These things get hot and kids are curious. I have two at 11 and one that's 9 so they know better and stay away. They actually avoid it because I might tell them to run out to the garage and grab a bag. Slackers!
That's what I used cutting mine in Oct 18th. Depending on your thimble and hole the multi tool or hole saw would be my weapon of choice. A Sawzall (reciprocating saw) will also work but you will get a much cleaner cut with the multi or holesaw. The larger hole saws will cost as much as the HF multi tool too if you do not have one. I used the multi tool because my wall kit did both exhaust and outside air and required a 7 1/4" - 7 1/2" square opening. Some kits are square while others are round.
One more thing.... Get a fire protective barrier or gate type deal up in front of it for the lil one when you fire it up. People will get all over you about it here with good reason. Just a heads up. These things get hot and kids are curious. I have two at 11 and one that's 9 so they know better and stay away. They actually avoid it because I might tell them to run out to the garage and grab a bag. Slackers!
I am a little confused looking at the directions for the install of the vent. I am not sure if I should use 3 or 4inch. It says it goes by altitude. Online is saying altitude is the same as elevation?
My vent will be
one tee/clean out
6 ft vertical
one 90 elbow
3 ft horizontal
then termination cap
my phone says I am at 800 ft elevation.
My vent will be
one tee/clean out
6 ft vertical
one 90 elbow
3 ft horizontal
then termination cap
my phone says I am at 800 ft elevation.
If I'm reading the graph correctly, you extrapolate vertically from just left of the 1 (800 ft). According to that graph, your evl can exceed 20 before you need to go to 4" pipe. I think most stoves require 4" pipe if the evl exceeds 15 ft. I think your evl is 5 + 5 (90 deg and the T) + 3 (vert) + 3 = 16 ft evl.
Elevations are smaller and tighter rings on the page. If your page / map has tight blurred rings (really no space and look like a black line.. Straight up hill. Not a good place to be unless you already own the top. You are at sea level. You have all the info you need right in front of you. (((( MANUAL specs it out ))). I am not the local Fire Marshall, nor Inspector. And I am sure in the hell not the ambulance chasing jack ass attorney,,,, May the all rot in hell. Bless their lying souls.
Excuse me, but most are still trying out how to double knot laces. Mommy's still fixing their over E-Z eggs. They don't need too tie when they can put it right up your....... They have it covered. No politics................. Facts. LOSERS!
Excuse me, but most are still trying out how to double knot laces. Mommy's still fixing their over E-Z eggs. They don't need too tie when they can put it right up your....... They have it covered. No politics................. Facts. LOSERS!
- Status
