Cleaning schedule for Enviro M55 Insert - and parts that wear out

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steveg_nh

Member
Sep 16, 2014
238
Southern NH
So I'm getting close to wrapping up my first season with my Enviro M55 cast insert. Overall, it has been a very good stove that throws a tremendous amount of heat. I really can't believe how well it performed, given it's an insert, even with this nasty new england winter we've had.

Anyway, I'm through 5.5 tons of pellets so far, with 1 remaining. Just cut the plastic off the last pallet last night. I have been pretty faithful at cleaning the stove inside the firebox, but a bit confused on some of the more involved cleaning. Basically, I'm trying to determine if I can do all the necessary cleaning myself, or if I do need to hire a chimney/pellet stove company to do a real thorough cleaning.

Anyway, here's what I do:

1. Every 3 days or sooner if needed - Clean out burn pot, ash pan, clean glass, and clean firebox and vac baffle and heat exchanger tubes
2. Every two weeks - remove and clean behind firebox liner and remove and clean firebox lower plate and clean behind it
3. Every two tons - pull stove out, clean up behind it and dust, etc, clean exhaust vent to top of chimney, check and clean exhaust and convection blowers if needed, and "proof of fire" switch in exhaust tube.

Aside from the above, what else would a professional cleaning get me?

One thing that I think I need to be able to do better is cleaning the blowers, both exhaust and for the heat exchangers. How do you really get to these? Do you need to take them apart/off the main unit to clean them, or am I missing something in terms of really cleaning them up? They didn't look too bad the other day, but cleaner would be better.

Lastly, should I be opening up the back where the pellets are stored (removing panels I assume) to clean out fines and stuff like that? I think this is where I adjust to reduce the opening that the pellets fall through.

As for parts, I've noticed my agitator bar has severely withered away under use. The middle third of it is less than 1/2 as thick as it was when new. Almost like it just wore away. Normal or not?

Thanks for the points on cleaning, etc. I read a ton of threads, but couldn't really find much on the real thorough cleaning requirements, and how what I am capable of doing compares to what a hired pro would do.

Thanks!
 
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Seems like you have a good handle on the bulk of the cleaning. Convection air blower - I use a small toothbrush to brush down the vanes and leave the vac running to catch the loose dust; I've used compressed air too. Exhaust blower - some use a brush; some use steel wool/scotch brite on the blades. Just have to be careful with both blowers that you don't bend vanes.

Have you tried the leaf blower trick? Use the search box upper right to search the forum ... video somewhere on here:)

When you're done using and cleaning for the summer, put some damp rid in the firebox to prevent rust formation. I have a free-standing so I cap off my OAK and exhaust too. Seriously thinking about wheeling it out this summer to give everything a good shot of compressed air.
 
Yeah, I saw the leaf blower thing, but for my setup, I'm not sure that gets me much, at least for cleaning the blowers/squirrel cages. Cleaning the exhaust blower is tricky as you can't really easily get inside it. The toothbrush and compressed air is a good idea on the convection blower.

But assuming I do all of this, do I really need to hire a professional cleaning company? What else would they be doing? Are they really cleaning the vent pipe and better/differently than me, if I'm scraping the whole thing from top to bottom using something like the Gardus LintEater/Sooteater?
 
You should be able to get that combustion blower. On most stoves it means removing six nuts and pulling the motor and its mounting plate out of the cavity the fan it goes into (need to have a new round gasket handy because the gasket frequently gets toasted in the process). No biggie unless they have stuff too crowded in the stove shell and then it is like replacing an igniter in my stove. Some stoves even have a plate or door that opens allowing access for cleaning the combustion blower system.
 
So hiring a pro to come clean it is likely a waste of money...I like that! It was really easy to clean the vent. Not as messy as I thought it would be. Unfortunately I couldn't get in there to take a good look with a flashlight, but after a few minutes, no more soot was falling down, so I'm confident I got it all.

Thanks for the link too, I 'll check that.

What about the fact that my agitator seems to be dwindling down to almost nothing. Normal?
 
If you're very concerned, you could hire a pro and watch them just to ensure that you are doing what you should... may buy you some peace of mind. A sweep may just do the chimney only; a tech may just service the stove only. Talk to the dealer to see what they do when they service...

The exhaust blower will be approximately the same for all the stove. The differences come in with sizing/power and positioning.

As to the agitator, hopefully folks with multi-fuels will chime in with advice. You could try the search box upper right as I know there have been other threads that discussed them.
 
Agitators are a consumable item, you need to keep them clean and free of carbon build up along with the burn pot. Burning in a poor air environment increases carbon production which leads to a number of items needing early replacement.

Check out some of jtakeman 's posts about burn pot modifications to slow down carbon build up. He has an Enviro Omega with a very similar burn system as your M55.
 
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Thanks. So my guess is my dirty burning or the last 1.5 tons didn't help anything!
 
What can I say, we keep a preaching about cleaning and proper air flow, sometimes we are heard sometimes just not quite soon enough.
 
Hey Steve, pull out the M55, make sure you remove the convection blower and exhaust blower to thoroughly clean them, the convex is simple 3/8 bolts, loosen and slide out after disconnecting leads. Exh blower is 4 small Phillips screws, bottom one is harder to get to, use a stubby screwdriver. Clean that blower and the crud out of the cavity, or you will prob get the dreaded vacuum light (2) next fall when the motor will not turn because it is jammed with crud. Take it out and clean it. Make sure you clean the Proof of fire switch (forward of the exh blower, has 4 5/16 screws holding it in on a plate. The switch has two t20 screws to take it out if you wish. It needs to be cleaned every season, or you will get a number 3 flashing light. clean the air tubes housing out too, a lot of stuff collects in it. Good luck with her.
 
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Smokey, no kidding! I was very good about cleaning the stove and behind it, but didn't give much thought to the vent, as you always hear "just once a season" or how clean everything burns...lesson learned.

Stovelark, a few follow up questions if that's ok...I want to clean the blowers, absolutely.

So on the exhaust blower, I believe you are talking about the screws on the backside? When I remove those, the exhaust blower will just come out right? Is that where the gasket is? I'm told I will need to have another gasket handy, as it breaks often. I was surprised to see this simple gasket is around $35. But I read elsewhere that someone else said if you just remove the motor from the housing, no gasket issues...can you clarify your findings?

On the Proof of fire switch, you meantion the 4 bolts on the plate, and then the 2 screws holding it on a plate. I saw the 4 screws on the plate. When I remove that, is that where you're saying I'll see the T20 screws? Do I need to do that as well, or if I just remove the plate with the 4 5/16" screws, will I get access to all I need? And any gasket behind that plate holding the switch when I remove it?

Lastly, on the convection blower, is that where you are talking about the 3/8" bolts on the convex? I didn't see how to get the convection blower out, but would love to to really clean it up and blow it out with compressed air, outside. Any gasket on this to worry about?

I'd love to do this tonight, but don't have the exhaust blower (combustion) gasket yet, and not sure about a gasket on the convection blower of proof of fire plate.

Thanks a ton!
 
Hi Steve, on the exh blower, last one I cleaned still had no gasket on the motor to exh housing. Just had the 4 small phillips. Very important to take out and clean though. The 3/8 bolts are the mounts on each side of convex blower, remove one, loosen the other and slide it out carefully, no gasket on the convex blower. On the proof of fire plate, it has a gasket, prob can just re-use the one on there. You dont have to take out the t20 screws if you remove the 4 5/16 plate screws. Just clean the switch off with windex, damp paper towel, whatever you need, usually it crudded up with exhaust debris. Good luck with it.
 
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OH! Convex is an abbreviation for convection! I get it. My bad. :) I thought you were saying convex, like "circle" so I was thinking the housing of the exhaust blower. LOL!

And on the proof of fire switch, if you just remove the 2 T20 screws, isn't that easier than the 4 screws holding the plate on? Any gasket on the switch itself if you remove it from the plate? Or is it nice to remove the plate so you can get in the tube even better for cleaning?? Just trying to understand why to do it one way or the other.
 
Hi Steve. Suggest you look at the enviro videos (on enviro fire website and youtube), which show how to remove and replace blowers and other parts. Then you can see what Stovelark is describing. I get it; I too was afraid I'd break something year one w/ the stove. You won't need any gaskets for the combustion blower if you remove it as Stovelark described. The gasket goes between the stove and the fan housing.
 
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I cleaned those fans last night. The convection fan was actually in good shape, but I'm pretty sure it has a bad bearing. That's where I'm getting noise from. Only 5 months old, what the heck! Whatever. Anyway, as thought, there was no gasket between the motor and the plenum housing. It had some soot on it too, not horrible, but glad I cleaned it.Thanks a million for the tips. Hopefully this thread helps others with the M55 insert for cleaning...stove runs great again!
 
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