Rockford double wall pipe on Ashford 30

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Ashful

Minister of Fire
Mar 7, 2012
19,988
Philadelphia
I need to re-plumb one (or maybe both) of my Ashford 30's in double-wall. Seeing as I already owe some returned fittings to Rockford, and their quality is superb, I was planning on going with them for the new components.

Anyone have the double-wall stove pipe adaptors? I can't figure from the photos whether the version for stoves with collars will fit the Ashford, or if I need to go with the non-collar version.

dsp_stove_adapter.JPG
dsp_stove_adapter_collar.JPG


http://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/doublewallblack.php

Also, how do you go about attaching the version with collar (right photo) to the stove? I'm used to single-wall, in which I run screws thru the stove collar into the pipe, but with an outer pipe covering the collar, I'm wondering how that works.
 
Photo of Ashford stove collar.

cbf61a0eeb7d7acc6a447ff51c35e7d5.jpg
 
Right or wrong I don't attach the double wall to the stove. You can't do it without crushing the outer wall, hacking the double wall, and/or halfassing the screws.
 
there should be a stove adapter just for this purpose. Then you just attach it like you would any other pipe
 
A stove adaptor is exactly what I showed, chiller. Two of them, in fact.

Highbeam, you don't attach inner tube to stove? When my old stove used to back puff, I was always glad everything was screwed down tight.
 
You want the one on the right. The other is for a stove that doesn't have a flue collar at all, just a hole. You probably wouldn't get it jammed down past the weld anyway.

Those look like Selkirk pieces. Some brands fit without an adapter, I think, but the Selkirk DSP didn't fit on my King without one.

In theory, the screws in the telescoping section should hold everything in place. I screwed all the joints as usual.
 
It is strange that it's required to have 3 screws on each joint, but no double wall stove top adaptors have anyway to attach them. We have a great way to do it, but requires an additional part that most would not have. You can also do some detailed measuring, drill a 1/2" hole through the outer wall to expose the inner wall. This 1/2" hole allows room for the screw and driver to pass through the outer wall without crushing it.
 
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A stove adaptor is exactly what I showed, chiller. Two of them, in fact.

Highbeam, you don't attach inner tube to stove? When my old stove used to back puff, I was always glad everything was screwed down tight.

I used the official stove adaptor from simpson on my BK and it eliminates access to the inner tube for screwing. I used no adapter on my hearthstone as that stove's collar would not mate with an adapter, just shove the double wall taper right in. No way to screw that either. Both installs passed inspection even though I pointed this out to the inspector. He said, and I agree, that there are no provisions to screw it to the stove and so it is not required. Also, my install is vertical so with the expansion piece locked it can't expand.

Oh and there is no way to screw it in up top either. At least not with my generation of ceiling support box/adapter. The newest generation from simpson seems to have fixed that issue. I like screws but I won't hack up a pipe for them.

I don't get backpuffs. I get the occasional woosh of flame but nothing violent and no noise or vibration.
 
I used the official stove adaptor from simpson on my BK and it eliminates access to the inner tube for screwing. I used no adapter on my hearthstone as that stove's collar would not mate with an adapter, just shove the double wall taper right in. No way to screw that either. Both installs passed inspection even though I pointed this out to the inspector. He said, and I agree, that there are no provisions to screw it to the stove and so it is not required. Also, my install is vertical so with the expansion piece locked it can't expand.

Oh and there is no way to screw it in up top either. At least not with my generation of ceiling support box/adapter. The newest generation from simpson seems to have fixed that issue. I like screws but I won't hack up a pipe for them.

I don't get backpuffs. I get the occasional woosh of flame but nothing violent and no noise or vibration.
Ya, the new Dura-vent DVL adaptor is very nice. It's actually a short piece of DVL that mounts to your ceiling box. It's so much nicer than the old ones.
 
Ya, the new Dura-vent DVL adaptor is very nice. It's actually a short piece of DVL that mounts to your ceiling box. It's so much nicer than the old ones.

When/if I replace the double wall on my BK I would like to find and use that new adapter at the ceiling box. The old style with the keyways is a little "hokey".
 
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In my case, there's a jog of two 45's on the way up, and 8 feet of pipe. So, I'll be finding a way to screw every joint, including the one at the adapter up top. Just not sure how to do it, without the components in-hand.
 
When/if I replace the double wall on my BK I would like to find and use that new adapter at the ceiling box. The old style with the keyways is a little "hokey".
Very hokey. I need to get around to replacing mine too.
 
Ya, the new Dura-vent DVL adaptor is very nice. It's actually a short piece of DVL that mounts to your ceiling box. It's so much nicer than the old ones.


Agree, used this on my Ashford install - makes for a very sano installation.
 
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