Used Englander PV-25 pvdc install , need advise on location and piping

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nappahdog

New Member
Jan 29, 2016
3
prescott AZ
I want to install below a window , i have a dura vent kit and am wondering if it is safe and effective to run without all the uprights . or should I get a different kit? Or just move it altogether?

how I am thinking of hooking it up:
Screen%20Shot%202016-01-29%20at%2010.14.54%20AM_zpsii46c0a2.png

Other possible kit/setup:
Screen%20Shot%202016-01-29%20at%2010.14.14%20AM_zpsls1sosjp.png

Location inside house:
IMG_20160130_150001_zpslowx26l5.jpg

Location outside house:
IMG_20160130_150024_zpsh9h9mxfc.jpg
 
Last edited:
nappahdog said:
I want to install below a window , i have a dura vent kit and am wondering if it is safe and effective to run without all the uprights . or should I get a different kit? Or just move it altogether?

https://goo.gl/photos/fV5FqbHjuCi1csoAA

https://goo.gl/photos/iqp3cW3vec2yF5xi9
Click to expand...



You should download the manual for the stove and follow the requirements for the vent termination. You will likely change your mind after reading the manual since 4 foot clearance from an open window to the termination is required.
 
nappahdog said:
I want to install below a window , i have a dura vent kit and am wondering if it is safe and effective to run without all the uprights . or should I get a different kit? Or just move it altogether?

https://goo.gl/photos/fV5FqbHjuCi1csoAA

https://goo.gl/photos/iqp3cW3vec2yF5xi9
Click to expand...
You would have to follow NFPA codes for your install. Google duravent, you would be able to see the required clearances. Once you know that, you can caculate what you'll need and figure out your EVL. You may need to step up to 4" over 15' EVL. If it's a basement install you'll need to upgrade your OAK to 3"
 
Yeah, unlike some stove's, regardless of OAK install or not, you still need 4' between the end of the exhaust and any opening on the wall you exhaust through.
 
I believe you can run that stove straight out the wall with no uprights though.
 
You could look into local codes, I know a guy in a county over who simply made his window non-functioning. Not sure how, but it pleased the code guy enough to pass it. There was no exterior wall I could use to pass code without using West wall thats exposed to high winds. I upsized to 4" and went through roof. During one power outage the draft was enough to keep flame looking normal.
 
Not a basement install, it's a mobile home. I don't intend on having the window open during the winter , and won't be running the stove in the summer. A friend has the same stove and just went straight out with a single section and the thimble only (dura-vent 3" kit), not saying he did it right but it seems to work for him. Like this:

Screen%20Shot%202016-01-30%20at%203.15.54%20PM_zpst9jl7nsh.png


I also updated the first post with photos of the location I I am thinking of. I do have two other options but as far as heat dispersion this location is the best. I will be running the OAK as the manual suggests.
 
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In my opinion a little bit of strait pipe going up is a good thing incase of a power outage some natural draft will help pull the smoke out of the house..
 
nappahdog said:
Not a basement install, it's a mobile home. I don't intend on having the window open during the winter , and won't be running the stove in the summer. A friend has the same stove and just went straight out with a single section and the thimble only (dura-vent 3" kit), not saying he did it right but it seems to work for him. Like this:

View attachment 173582


I also updated the first post with photos of the location I I am thinking of. I do have two other options but as far as heat dispersion this location is the best. I will be running the OAK as the manual suggests.
Click to expand...

Thats all up to you with just going straight out. But if the power goes out for any reason you will regret it.

If it ever needs to be inspected you will have a hole in the wall to patch up.
 
Cedarjunki said:
Thats all up to you with just going straight out. But if the power goes out for any reason you will regret it.

If it ever needs to be inspected you will have a hole in the wall to patch up.
Click to expand...
I believe NFPA code says vent termination needs to be at least 4 feet from any window that has the ability to be opened.
A 36" rise is certainly a good idea.
I've lost power a few times and the natural draft has kept all of the smoke where it belongs.
 
Jason Knapp said:
I believe NFPA code says vent termination needs to be at least 4 feet from any window that has the ability to be opened.
A 36" rise is certainly a good idea.
I've lost power a few times and the natural draft has kept all of the smoke where it belongs.
Click to expand...

Either way you look at it the place he wants to install is a bad bad idea without goin up above the roof. Look at the pics he posted, the roof or deck or whatever it is extending out.
So he would be venting under window, near a door, and below a porch/or inside a covered area..
 
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Agreeing with Cedar on this. Pick an entirely different location or go all the way up through the roof. You would lose operation of a window, having the door there would still fail it and having the porch roof would either get full of soot, stagnate the air and possibly infiltrate into the house or both.
 
Cedarjunki said:
Either way you look at it the place he wants to install is a bad bad idea without goin up above the roof. Look at the pics he posted, the roof or deck or whatever it is extending out.
So he would be venting under window, near a door, and below a porch/or inside a covered area..
Click to expand...
Now I see. I agree with you. Picking a different spot would avoid a lot of problems. Or going with your suggestion.
 
Dura vent has options for that.. I know because my factory has all natural gas units and I have rubber roofing... They have rubber grommets that cement to the roof and clamp on the pipe
 
After seeing those pics, exit wall, into clean-out Tee, up and out through that roof is only legal way to vent it.
 
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