HELP I DID A THING! i1200insert

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beermann

beermann

Feeling the Heat
Jan 16, 2017
318
canada
So I bought a regency i1200 for $300 from a contractor and I pick it up tomorrow. Looks to be near mint condition. I was told it has been rarely used as it was gifted to them by the contractor but the owners didn't like burning wood and decided to use gas.

I need advice on what I should inspect before coughing up the cash on this kijiji deal. can you guys help me with that?
 

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Sweet!
I'm happy to see that you have decided to go with a proper heater!:)

I think your main things to look for on a used steel stove are cracked welds, warpage, and discoloration(orange-ish on iron, not sure about steel) indicating overfire. I'd also check the door latch, the air control lever, and burn tubes in the ceiling of the firebox.

If they have converted to gas, they may let you have the liner for this stove too...
 
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I really hope I am in for a surprise about getting that liner. The same kind of surprise I had when I looked for a liner minutes ago.....$300-400!! What are my options and where can i get it cheap or moderately priced...I do not know how long my chimney is so lets assume 25' for now. ill measure during daylight.
 
Warped tubes, or any warped steel and cracks would be my biggest concern. Looks very good from the pics though. Cracked bricks are easily replaced but I don't see any. Doesn't appear to have been used very much. I think you got a deal on your hands
 
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ddddddden said:
Sweet!
I'm happy to see that you have decided to go with a proper heater!:)

I think your main things to look for on a used steel stove are cracked welds, warpage, and discoloration(orange-ish on iron, not sure about steel) indicating overfire. I'd also check the door latch, the air control lever, and burn tubes in the ceiling of the firebox.

If they have converted to gas, they may let you have the liner for this stove too...
Click to expand...


thanks. now I need to learn about liners
 
rwhite said:
Warped tubes, or any warped steel and cracks would be my biggest concern. Looks very good from the pics though. Cracked bricks are easily replaced but I don't see any. Doesn't appear to have been used very much. I think you got a deal on your hands
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Yes sir I think I do. Looks like its price rang is $1,950-$2,750 and if his story is correct and I assume it is. It's brand new with only a handful of fires in it. $200 for the project I was thinking about or $300 and get closer to heating my home with wood. I am genuinely excited.
 
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Also make sure you insulate the liner as well.
 
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bholler said:
It is infact very very cheap.
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With some of the junk product out there hopefully it is not so inexpensive that the OP has to change it again in 3-4 years, that would be a painful distressing situation.
 
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Attaboy said:
With some of the junk product out there hopefully it is not so inexpensive that the OP has to change it again in 3-4 years, that would be a painful distressing situation.
Click to expand...

I would really hate to do this. I am hoping the liner and insulation runs me around $300 total. I will be using kijiji a lot.
 
Attaboy said:
With some of the junk product out there hopefully it is not so inexpensive that the OP has to change it again in 3-4 years, that would be a painful distressing situation.
Click to expand...
That is a good stove and an excellent deal. Treated right it will last a lifetime.
 
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beermann said:
I would really hate to do this. I am hoping the liner and insulation runs me around $300 total. I will be using kijiji a lot.
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Liner may be hard to come used. You may be looking at $600-700 with insulation. The bright side is you didn't waste it on a fireplace. Get the flue inspected and a cheap screen and use the fireplace until you get a liner.
 
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rwhite said:
Liner may be hard to come used. You may be looking at $600-700 with insulation. The bright side is you didn't waste it on a fireplace. Get the flue inspected and a cheap screen and use the fireplace until you get a liner.
Click to expand...

If i get a liner I wont need an inspection on the flue. just a WETT cert after I'm all hooked up and clearances inside are made. is that correct?
 
You'll have to remove anything combustible that is within the clearance requirement. The surround will probably cover 1/2 of what you cut out. The options are unlimited for what to do with any left over exposed areas . You can make a larger surround out of 1/16" steel., tile, decorative stamped metal overlays.
 
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rwhite said:
You'll have to remove anything combustible that is within the clearance requirement. The surround will probably cover 1/2 of what you cut out. The options are unlimited for what to do with any left over exposed areas . You can make a larger surround out of 1/16" steel., tile, decorative stamped metal overlays.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I'll make a separate post to get some input and suggestions before I start hacking away.
 
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Don't know the size of place your going to hear but my insert was just a bit bigger than the i200 and I could keep my main floor of 1000sqft and the upper 400sqft room warm 80% of the time. My NG heater would kick in about 5 am when the fire went out. I just set the thermostat for 68 all the time and it would run maybe an hour a day. I still had to use a space heater in the basement every now and then.
 
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beermann said:
Thank you. I'll make a separate post to get some input and suggestions before I start hacking away.
Click to expand...
I would just cut back as required and leave it until you get the insert in and surround installed. Then you can step back and visualize what could fill the gap. Something will come to mind.
 
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I am heating one floor with 3 bedrooms. about 1200-1500squar feet. Living room where is being installed is a shared dining room and its about 650-700 square feet. Down the hall is 3 beds and a bathroom. Combined square footage is roughly 500-600sq feet. Give or take.

I have a register beside the mantle and I am hoping it draws enough air with the central fan on that I heat the upper floor and rooms of the house.

Basement is roughly the same, half finished with a tenant who uses a gas insert.
 
rwhite said:
I would just cut back as required and leave it until you get the insert in and surround installed. Then you can step back and visualize what could fill the gap. Something will come to mind.
Click to expand...


I'm just really excited so I'm all over the place :p
 
beermann said:
If i get a liner I wont need an inspection on the flue. just a WETT cert after I'm all hooked up and clearances inside are made. is that correct?
Click to expand...
Not sure on Northern code:). Just make sure it's clean before you install the liner. I don't know for positive but insulated liners are used to correct flue problems so it should matter if there's a cracked flue or not. If you burn it open between now and the install I would have it inspected prior to that.
 
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beermann said:
I am heating one floor with 3 bedrooms. about 1200-1500squar feet. Living room where is being installed is a shared dining room and its about 650-700 square feet. Down the hall is 3 beds and a bathroom. Combined square footage is roughly 500-600sq feet. Give or take.

I have a register beside the mantle and I am hoping it draws enough air with the central fan on that I heat the upper floor and rooms of the house.

Basement is roughly the same, half finished with a tenant who uses a gas insert.
Click to expand...
Forced air to move heat doesn't work IMO. It just moves the air to fast and cools everything down. Gotta figure with a furnace your taking 1200 degree air and moving it and it comes out the vents at 90. If you take 70 degree air and move it, it comes out about 50. Put a box fan in the hall way and blow the cold air toward the stove and it will draw the warm air back. With a tenant below heating the space your already getting free radiant floor heat! (That is if they pay for it)
 
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